Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

The plastic caps work perfect as long as they are not overtightened.

Mine has had over 40 oil changes and is in perfect condition. The secret? Following the **** directions!
Yeah, I get all that. But oil caps didn't used to require "directions", so they wouldn't jam up and cause issues. I don't have an issue with them either. But that doesn't change the fact the design, along with the materials used in it, (plastic on plastic), begs for problems.

And when you take into account that the bulk of these quicky lube joints don't exactly employ NASA engineers, it all begs for problems that never existed before. Jeff's situation proves that if it proves anything.

These "engineers" all seem to be on a mission to get away from proven designs and materials that did nothing but work. In favor of one's that are problem prone. All to save a buck fifty per vehicle... If that.
 
Sounds like Critic has solid advice. Leverage is your friend. I'm cautious of my kids RAV4 with the same plastic issue. I'm interested to hear from you if you find the O ring present or not or damaged. Good luck! Sounds like a doozey.
 
Don’t you just hate it when this happens?
Both of our vehicles have cartridge filters and plastic caps. I do my own oil changes. Before the first oil change, in both vehicles, I used typewriter correction fluid to put corresponding marks on the housing and cap. This prevents me from going too far.
 
Yeah, I get all that. But oil caps didn't used to require "directions", so they wouldn't jam up and cause issues. I don't have an issue with them either. But that doesn't change the fact the design, along with the materials used in it, (plastic on plastic), begs for problems.

And when you take into account that the bulk of these quicky lube joints don't exactly employ NASA engineers, it all begs for problems that never existed before. Jeff's situation proves that if it proves anything.

These "engineers" all seem to be on a mission to get away from proven designs and materials that did nothing but work. In favor of one's that are problem prone. All to save a buck fifty per vehicle... If that.
Nothing wrong with plastic caps on cartridge style oil filters. You’re looking at this through rose colored glasses. Stuck oil filters and drain plugs have been a problem since forever regardless of style and materials used.
 
22 years of OCs with composite caps and no issues yet (BMW topside). Encountered a Toyota (Sienna, bottomside) metal cap that wouldn't come loose with a slotted tool after a dealer/lube place. Put a piece of ~2x2 against one of the fins and gave the other end a whack or two with a mini sledge and all good since.

On the BMW topsides the torque is 22-25Nm I think, but the O-ring is the seal and all you need to do is mate the plastic to the housing and that's it. So that's what I do, real gentle.
 
What this shows is that some people have no clue how things work (I'm not speaking about you, Jeff). The caps's seal is formed by the O-ring, not the flange on the cap.

On BMW forums people have asked where the O-ring should be placed. Even though there is a prominent groove for the 0-ring to reside inside of, some place it up against the flange on the cap which, of course, causes problems.

Scott
 
Nothing wrong with plastic caps on cartridge style oil filters. You’re looking at this through rose colored glasses. Stuck oil filters and drain plugs have been a problem since forever regardless of style and materials used.
More like Sunglasses,it's that obvious. The fact is these type of disasters are far more prevalent with these molded, plastic housings. Not to mention far messier. Not only that, but many are destroyed upon removal, (much like the photo in this thread shows).

It doesn't matter what happens to a steel canister in order to get it off, because it's going in the can regardless. No matter how you look at these things, they're far more problem prone. Especially when you've got some kid doing it for a few bucks above minimum wage, with the mechanical aptitude of a bullfrog.
 
More like Sunglasses,it's that obvious. The fact is these type of disasters are far more prevalent with these molded, plastic housings. Not to mention far messier. Not only that, but many are destroyed upon removal, (much like the photo in this thread shows).

It doesn't matter what happens to a steel canister in order to get it off, because it's going in the can regardless. No matter how you look at these things, they're far more problem prone. Especially when you've got some kid doing it for a few bucks above minimum wage, with the mechanical aptitude of a bullfrog.
Not sure if these types of issue are more prevalent on cartridge style vs canister, but you’re right that if things do go south, a canister that goes into the trash can afterwards is easier to deal with.
 
They never should have gotten away from the old stamped metal, 1/4 turn on / off oil filler caps, with the cork or fiber sealing gasket. All they did was work...... Effortlessly. Now, it's yet another thing they've gone and, "improved".

These "engineers" all seem to be on a mission to get away from proven designs and materials that did nothing but work. In favor of one's that are problem prone. All to save a buck fifty per vehicle... If that.
You're quite quick to judge and criticize without knowing all the facts. Toyota has moved away from the system you're complaining about. It's been a few years since they've moved back to the spin-on filters.

That $1.50 per vehicle equates to millions saved. I watched a video about the development of a recent Mustang model, and it showed the design and engineering teams at a meeting. In this meeting, they were debating the value of a single bolt to secure a part. The cost was pennies for the bolt. When the debate was over, and the decision was made not to use the bolt, one of the team said, "We just saved the company $500,000."
 
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Serviced my friends 2015 Corolla with the stupid composite oil filter cap. I am using the correct removal tool...
I had an extended 1/2 ratchet and even banged on it with a small sledge. Will not budge; I was afraid of breaking it so I left it.
This should go without saying: You are turning it the right way, aren't you?

A guy here at the office was just about reduced to tears trying to unscrew the drain plug on his oil pan. He had the ratchet set the wrong way.... Eventually he had that thing torqued to about 300 ft/lbs!
 
More like Sunglasses,it's that obvious. The fact is these type of disasters are far more prevalent with these molded, plastic housings. Not to mention far messier. Not only that, but many are destroyed upon removal, (much like the photo in this thread shows).

It doesn't matter what happens to a steel canister in order to get it off, because it's going in the can regardless. No matter how you look at these things, they're far more problem prone. Especially when you've got some kid doing it for a few bucks above minimum wage, with the mechanical aptitude of a bullfrog.
The “plastic” cap on my wife’s Volvo has lasted 21 years and 296,000 miles - so far. A steel cap would have been a rusty mess by now, given our regular salt water exposure.

Composite doesn’t mean cheap, and it doesn’t mean bad. The F/A-18 center fuselage is made out of composite. Holds up to carrier launches, landings, and high G maneuvering.

This is a problem with kids, as you said, putting things on way too tight. Since my wife’s mechanic (me) knows that they’re doing, the composite works great.

I‘ve had steel oil filters put on way too tight, as well. Kids, not wanting a leak, would go way, way past the 3/4 of a turn after gasket contact. I would have to resort to destruction of the filter to get it off.

The problem is the same - the manifestation with modern design is slightly different.

For @JeffKeryk - get a new one. You can’t tell if you have damaged composite (this was a problem with the F/A-18, too). The only way to get this off is with a proper tool and more leverage. It’ll come eventually.

No penetrant is going to wick its way up the threads, they’re sealed by an o-ring. Best case, penetrant reduces some of the flange friction, so it’s worth a shot.
 
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