Toyota 3.3 VVT-I OCI Rec please

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dblshock

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109k on Highlander Limited 4WD at least 50% 250mi no stop hwy. trips, 30% urban interstate and balance city.

stash is Quaker UD 5/30 and NextGen 5/30

MFG rec is 5k with filter

I'd like to strech that at least to 7.5k

looking to use this vehicle another 125k, as of now it uses zero oil.

any opinions?
 
have 5k on the current unknown fill and its still a light color...had a 1.5 Toy that would be black as the bible by now.
 
Does your highlander have the OLM? My 06 had one and it always went off at around 5k on Dino or synblend, the castrol edge with titanium was getting close to 8k when we traded it.... Id say a full syn would be your best bet. I also did 5w30 , not sure about 5w20, but Toyota xw20 oils are considered top notch on this board. QSUD is good oil , so use your stash then/or hit the Toyota parts center up for some 20 wieght oil. My 2 cents.
 
your olm could differentiate synthetic from dino?..dind't know they did that..good info but what kind of driving when you got the 8k olm?
 
Im not a fan if Toyota/denso filters. I disagree with the " more filter media area with low efficiency filtering is best because it allows better oil flow" logic". It by a good filter like Mobil 1 or Pure1.
32.gif
my apologies but thought you should be aware.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
have 5k on the current unknown fill and its still a light color...had a 1.5 Toy that would be black as the bible by now.

Yeah, yours will do better than the I4's. My 2 I4's get pretty bad after 5k, 6k and I dump it. My dads v6 always looks good. He goes 7500-8k (the book says 10k on Toyota 0w20 oil). Suppose a 7500 UOA may be a good investment to find out if going farther is no problem on yours. Make up the UOA cost in extended intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
your olm could differentiate synthetic from dino?..dind't know they did that..good info but what kind of driving when you got the 8k olm?


Unless my wife turned it off or I just was off on the odometer, I swear it was 8k. We did a little more highway than city... Bottom line, id follow the OLM unless you dont trust it due to originally being specced for 5w30..
 
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One other reason not to go too far is Toyota's VVT design. Very sensitive to deposits, tiny winding oil gallies that are known to clog fairly easily. The VVT running optimally is critical to Toyota engines.
 
hate to send the UOA money for 7.5k heck my 2.4 Honda does that and 15k filters
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
One other reason not to go too far is Toyota's VVT design. Very sensitive to deposits, tiny winding oil gallies that are known to clog fairly easily. The VVT running optimally is critical to Toyota engines.


Is that a reason why they back speced to a thinner, better flowing oil (w20) ?
 
Well in that case , id not take it past 7.5k without a uoa. If you choose to push it, get high end filters like amzoil or Bosch distance + to protect the VVTI.
 
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Originally Posted By: dblshock
hate to send the UOA money for 7.5k heck my 2.4 Honda does that and 15k filters

I hear you. Let me say it another way. Based on the stash in the first post - Can you extend past 7500? Yeah, but your running on the downside of the oil life. Because its BITOG, we worry about that. Will you still get years out of the engine? Probably. Don't let the vvt system clog and you should be fine. You will know if its happening. Startup tick for a couple seconds.
 
even if some damage occurs in 7.5-8k oci's the useful part of this unit will have been used up in another 140k. Thats the other part of this equation..brand new I probably would feel differently, but thats not the case here.
 
oci's are time and money, why would I care if this 3.3 sat in a bone yard but didn't burn a spec of oil.
 
Yeah, makes sense. Your in the snow belt like me, where the road salt claims the body at about 15 years.

This being an oil enthusiast forum, we start jonesing' to change the oil even if we don't have to
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