Tow vehicle/daily driver SUV recommendations?

Check the service parts Identifcation label for RPO codes… it will tell you the gear. As stated already it should be a GU_ .
 
I drive a half-ton Silverado. My trailer ready to camp is 5,000 pounds. My advice when the questions is asked on truck forums-"What trailer should I buy"?, I tell them not to exceed 4,500 pounds dry. And there are PLENTY of trailers one can choose from. Your trailer is heavier than I would want given all the information you have shared. Your payload is probably around 1,400 pounds-and your tongue weight is half that. NOT GREAT numbers. My Silverado's payload is 1,444 pounds-there isn't any way yours is greater.

And I tow over 8,000 foot mountain passes in the "Great West" on a regular basis.

You are better off to get a lighter trailer and keep the vehicle you have. I know it's not what you want to hear.
Mine is just under 2000 lbs payload according to manual. Also use equalizer hitch
 
How much longer does it take to get to your destination going 45 on those steep grades vs in a normal car? An hour? How many times a year do you camp?

Are you willing to put up with feeding, registering, insuring, and maintaining a 3/4 ton daily driver to save this number of hours? I get it, it's embarrassing to be in the slow lane, but so are a bunch of other vehicles. Noone's going to pass you and say, oh, that's Fitz and his slow rig.

I assume the trailer has decent brakes that are up for the task-- as you say it goes fine.
Trailer brakes did all my stopping work. No issues with brakes. I think I put less wear on the suburban brakes than without towing. To be honest, the 45 speed in the mountains was not so much of an issue. I just get concerned that the tranny was going to give out, and watching oil pressure climb, especially on a downshift was concerning, but that is probably my ignorance creating that concern. I was generally happy with the trip, and performance, and my family was comfortable for the whole trip, just don't want to ruin my Suburban if it is too much weight and stress. Right now, I plan to keep this camper, it works for us, just considering an alternate vehicle to possibly replace the Expedition and have ability to upgrade TT in future. Some of the older 2500 Suburbans have 12k towing capacity, not sure about the ride though and costs in this market make it hard not to consider new or newer. Specs on newer SUVs seem to be less than on older models.
 
It sounds like to me with your hitch and your payload capacity you should be ok. Sure your trans will take a beating going up mountains , can you add a trans cooler ? That shouldn't cost too much .
Keep good brakes on trailer and truck , service your rear diff and keep on top of things . 👍
 
Trailer brakes did all my stopping work. No issues with brakes. I think I put less wear on the suburban brakes than without towing. To be honest, the 45 speed in the mountains was not so much of an issue. I just get concerned that the tranny was going to give out, and watching oil pressure climb, especially on a downshift was concerning, but that is probably my ignorance creating that concern. I was generally happy with the trip, and performance, and my family was comfortable for the whole trip, just don't want to ruin my Suburban if it is too much weight and stress. Right now, I plan to keep this camper, it works for us, just considering an alternate vehicle to possibly replace the Expedition and have ability to upgrade TT in future. Some of the older 2500 Suburbans have 12k towing capacity, not sure about the ride though and costs in this market make it hard not to consider new or newer. Specs on newer SUVs seem to be less than on older models.
You really don't understand the numbers. Towing capacity is meaningless. You have to look at PAYLOAD. And that figure is located on a yellow and white sticker inside your drivers door jam-along with the tire sizes and recommended inflation pressures. If your Suburban is full with passengers-and your trailer is 6,000 pounds-you are right up against payload. At the end of the day you bought too much trailer.
 
I want to know more about this oil pressure going up.

Typically hot idle is the only place I see pressure below max on a "real" gauge.

I say run what you've got until it blows. Put a big tranny cooler on it. You may be surprised that the truck lasts way longer than anyone expected.

Seems like you're just concerned, being new to all this, that the truck is in a performance zone you haven't really witnessed before. I've read that you can run a gas engine at 80% load at 80% of redline RPM "forever."

Maybe also get a scanguage or similar so you can track tranny temp and a few other parameters simultaneously.
 
Trailer brakes did all my stopping work. No issues with brakes. I think I put less wear on the suburban brakes than without towing. To be honest, the 45 speed in the mountains was not so much of an issue. I just get concerned that the tranny was going to give out, and watching oil pressure climb, especially on a downshift was concerning, but that is probably my ignorance creating that concern. I was generally happy with the trip, and performance, and my family was comfortable for the whole trip, just don't want to ruin my Suburban if it is too much weight and stress. Right now, I plan to keep this camper, it works for us, just considering an alternate vehicle to possibly replace the Expedition and have ability to upgrade TT in future. Some of the older 2500 Suburbans have 12k towing capacity, not sure about the ride though and costs in this market make it hard not to consider new or newer. Specs on newer SUVs seem to be less than on older models.

Your 4L60E isn't going to like towing that camper long term, At the very least you need a way to monitor trans temps (2500/2500HD/3500) 6.0L truck Clusters are a "Plug & Play" way to get a temp gauge.

A 5.3L can run at 4500 rpm all day if need be as long as Oil Temperatures are kept in check, A factory Oil Cooler is very easy to add as just about all aftermarket radiators have the cooler....You just need the lines, gasket, & bolts to bolt it to the engine.
Very few 5.3L equipped GMT800's had factory oil coolers, Tow package or not.

Heavy/Sustained Towing will result in broken exhaust manifold bolts, Install ARP bolts!!

A Tow Package will have 3.73:1 gears which is RPO code GT4.

GMT900 front brakes are a nice upgrade.

Max towing capacity can RARELY be achieved without exceeding payload capacity!!
 
Don't be tempted to buy a 6.4L Powerstroke truck no matter how cheap it is!!

A GMT800 2500 Suburban with LQ4 6.0L/4L80E will handle towing duties better (More Robust), But don't expect much improvement in performance!

A GMT900 2500 Suburban with a L96 6.0L/6L90E will give a performance boost. About inline with a 2V 6.8L V10/4R100 equipped Ford Excursion.

2V 5.4L/4R100 equipped Excursions are dogs in my opinion.

Diesel Excursions are Big Money & usually need a lot of work on top of their high price tag! Not because their bad trucks....People just run the crap out of them then sell 'em right as they need a lot of work.

Stay away from 3V 5.4L F250/F350 trucks, Their dogs & the engine is a ticking timebomb.

The 6.2L Ford F250/F350 have decent power & are very reliable. All used Super Duty trucks need new Cab Mounts!!!

GMT900 & K2XX GM platform 2500/3500 6.0L/6L90E are pretty good, The '14 & up K2XX are way nicer!

Duramax.....LBZ & LMM ONLY, LBZ trucks are stupid expensive & LMM trucks will need a DPF delete, DO NOT buy modified Duramax trucks!!!

Daimler/FCA Dodge Rams.....That's a tough one. The Cummins ISB 5.9L & 6.7L is a great engine....But all the Chrysler around it, Especially at higher miles is mediocre at best. Before everyone gets their feathers all ruffled.....These are going to be some pretty beat-up trucks at this price point!
 
Daimler/FCA Dodge Rams.....That's a tough one. The Cummins ISB 5.9L & 6.7L is a great engine....But all the Chrysler around it, Especially at higher miles is mediocre at best. Before everyone gets their feathers all ruffled.....These are going to be some pretty beat-up trucks at this price point!
Agreed. Great engine, mediocre transmissions. Interior is incredibly hit or miss. Tyler on Hoovies Garage scored a really really clean 3rd Gen with almost a million miles on it, but that’s a one in a million find… it was religiously maintained by a hot shot trucker but even then it’s on its 4th trans and 4th ac compressor per the maintenance records he’s shared.
 
Your 4L60E isn't going to like towing that camper long term, At the very least you need a way to monitor trans temps (2500/2500HD/3500) 6.0L truck Clusters are a "Plug & Play" way to get a temp gauge.

A 5.3L can run at 4500 rpm all day if need be as long as Oil Temperatures are kept in check, A factory Oil Cooler is very easy to add as just about all aftermarket radiators have the cooler....You just need the lines, gasket, & bolts to bolt it to the engine.
Very few 5.3L equipped GMT800's had factory oil coolers, Tow package or not.

Heavy/Sustained Towing will result in broken exhaust manifold bolts, Install ARP bolts!!

A Tow Package will have 3.73:1 gears which is RPO code GT4.

GMT900 front brakes are a nice upgrade.

Max towing capacity can RARELY be achieved without exceeding payload capacity!!
THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
Can anyone expand on what is involved in gearing upgrade and what I could expect to improve with regards to performance? To answer 1 question posed, I could maintain about 45 mph on steepest inclines, but if I wanted anything more, rpms went out to over 4k and oil pressure went up with rpms
4.10 is the most practical for towing and still have a vehicle that’s drivable - in fact a pleasure to drive. Gear swap ? you best find a local shop to get the price. I paid $1300 about 10 years back - so not current.
Like Clinebargers suggestion on an oil cooler.
Not sure what transmission cooler you have - but TruCool LPD is a nice unit …
I always installed drain plugs on the 4L60e - make it easy to put some fresh ATF in there often.
 
I say run what you've got until it blows.
Yeah, on vacation in North Dakota and he's from Florida. :mad:

A 5.3L can run at 4500 rpm all day if need be
Sure but it's tiring to listen to and be up on the wheel watching the gauges.

I went through this a year ago. Had a 2018 Titan, 395hp, 395 lb/ft torque, should pull a 6700# GVWR trailer no problem. Close on payload when scaled and as far as driving it was okay but I discovered after I brought the trailer home that the truck insisted on running at 3000 rpm at 65 on flat road. Any little grade or wind jumped to 3800, any decent grade and dropping to 55 went to 4500. Trans programming. If we were only doing local weekend trips or longer but short miles I probably would have kept it but we have long distance traveling in mind soon and no way I'm listening to a truck running high rpms days on end. Sucked it up and now have way more truck than trailer but planned for the next trailer. Bonus is wife likes to do her share of driving and this is rock solid steady.
 
Sure but it's tiring to listen to and be up on the wheel watching the gauges.

I went through this a year ago. Had a 2018 Titan, 395hp, 395 lb/ft torque, should pull a 6700# GVWR trailer no problem. Close on payload when scaled and as far as driving it was okay but I discovered after I brought the trailer home that the truck insisted on running at 3000 rpm at 65 on flat road. Any little grade or wind jumped to 3800, any decent grade and dropping to 55 went to 4500. Trans programming. If we were only doing local weekend trips or longer but short miles I probably would have kept it but we have long distance traveling in mind soon and no way I'm listening to a truck running high rpms days on end. Sucked it up and now have way more truck than trailer but planned for the next trailer. Bonus is wife likes to do her share of driving and this is rock solid steady.
OP gave a budget of $10k. Not going to have your cake and eat it too here, something has to give.

Also, if it breaks in NoWhere, what is more easy to fix? an old LS/4L60 or something much newer?
 
Your 4L60E isn't going to like towing that camper long term,
I’m never quite sure how to view the 4L60. If the OP is not exceeding the rating given by the OEM for his truck, then this trans should take it, and its not abuse, right? assuming all the details are considered, GCWR and all. But then at this age any failure is hard to tell apart from normal wear and tear, right?

Half tons aren’t “meant” to do this work day in and day out, like a 3/4 ton. Yet OP is not doing this day in and out, just a few trips a year, so… its still light duty usage.

Although 6k trailer plus the usual stuff in the vehicle does strike me as at or beyond the limit of a half ton. Let alone any future upgrades to the trailer.
 
I’m never quite sure how to view the 4L60. If the OP is not exceeding the rating given by the OEM for his truck, then this trans should take it, and its not abuse, right? assuming all the details are considered, GCWR and all. But then at this age any failure is hard to tell apart from normal wear and tear, right?

Half tons aren’t “meant” to do this work day in and day out, like a 3/4 ton. Yet OP is not doing this day in and out, just a few trips a year, so… its still light duty usage.

Although 6k trailer plus the usual stuff in the vehicle does strike me as at or beyond the limit of a half ton. Let alone any future upgrades to the trailer.
BiL put 400k on one but did not tow. I always had good runs with them - but had coolers and drain plugs …
(towed under 4k mostly)
 
I went through this a year ago. Had a 2018 Titan, 395hp, 395 lb/ft torque, should pull a 6700# GVWR trailer no problem. Close on payload when scaled and as far as driving it was okay but I discovered after I brought the trailer home that the truck insisted on running at 3000 rpm at 65 on flat road. Any little grade or wind jumped to 3800, any decent grade and dropping to 55 went to 4500. Trans programming. If we were only doing local weekend trips or longer but short miles I probably would have kept it but we have long distance traveling in mind soon and no way I'm listening to a truck running high rpms days on end. Sucked it up and now have way more truck than trailer but planned for the next trailer. Bonus is wife likes to do her share of driving and this is rock solid steady.
Sounds like you did the right thing for you.. what would you do for 10k is the question..
I think I'd spend 2k on current vehicle and wait out this crap used car market.

If the transmission blows that would be rough.. but what 10k used truck is going to be more reliable and heavier duty than what he has?

For any sort of traveling to be the most fun/good times you need excess truck and no issues.. not happening with 10k budget.
10k+ trading in the current one in todays market might get something decent.. but thats not what the OP said.

@clinebarger had some really good advice.
 
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