Total Repair & Maintenance Cost over 200k Miles

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What would you guess would be the total cost of repair and maintenance over a 200,000 mile vehicle lifespan?

I don't think there's a right or wrong, I'd just like to hear different estimates. Choose whatever vehicle you'd like, assume whatever you'd like for the variables. Please just be clear about your assumptions and how you come up with the estimate.
 
I bought my Camry used but imagine it was less than $2k for a mechanic to do the repairs in its life.

My VW on the other hand is at 175k and all repairs totaled up is at least $10,000 and it needs a lot more work.
 
I spend about $200 - $300 dollars a year on parts. Do my own labor except for wheel alignment. The last time I took my explorer into a shop was 12 years ago...
 
Owners in the dry sunbelt have an overwhelming advantage when it comes to the cost of owning, insuring and maintaining an automobile or pickup for personal use.

My Honda has never seen snow and very little rain. It's parked inside in a closed garage at home and many times inside at work. I've owned it since new and have no plans to ever sell it.

My first major expense was replacing all the bearings and seals in the transmission at 200K miles because of noise, along with the first clutch and pressure plate, speedo cable and speedometer assembly. I did the work myself at home and spent about $300 on parts and about $50 to rent a transmission jack for the week. The owner's manual automotive engine oil recommended for the tranny was Mobil 1 10w-30 but now I use Red Line MTL which is more suited to the task. At 430K+ with the MTL there's no noise at all. I replaced the clutch at 400K when I rebuilt the engine. It failed smog because of visible smoke. The oil control rings wore out so I rebuilt the whole engine. The rest of the engine inside was in great shape and would have gone a lot longer if it had not been for those oil control rings and having to pass smog.

I consider fluids, filters, hoses, belts, tires, brakes, shocks, struts, nuffler, smog hardware and tune ups to be just wear and tear items to be expected expenses on any vehicle, new or used unless you purchased an expensive car that includes some maintenance.
 
I got both my older Toyotas to 200k from new with just oil changes, one coolant change each, one set of spark plugs each, and one starter each. Oh, and two serpentine belts each. Plus brakes and tires and one stripped wheel lug and one wheel alignment, and a couple gas caps.

I'm coming up with about $2700 each. Tires being the largest cost by far. The only repairs were the starters.

After 200k miles, had to replace some O2 sensors ($50 each); intake manifold gasket ($10), valve cover gaskets ($20), stupid droopy sun visor ($70), 4 struts on the Corolla ($450).
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Owners in the dry sunbelt have an overwhelming advantage when it comes to the cost of owning, insuring and maintaining an automobile or pickup for personal use.

My Honda has never seen snow and very little rain. It's parked inside in a closed garage at home and many times inside at work. I've owned it since new and have no plans to ever sell it.

My first major expense was replacing all the bearings and seals in the transmission at 200K miles because of noise, along with the first clutch and pressure plate, speedo cable and speedometer assembly. I did the work myself at home and spent about $300 on parts and about $50 to rent a transmission jack for the week. The owner's manual automotive engine oil recommended for the tranny was Mobil 1 10w-30 but now I use Red Line MTL which is more suited to the task. At 430K+ with the MTL there's no noise at all. I replaced the clutch at 400K when I rebuilt the engine. It failed smog because of visible smoke. The oil control rings wore out so I rebuilt the whole engine. The rest of the engine inside was in great shape and would have gone a lot longer if it had not been for those oil control rings and having to pass smog.

I consider fluids, filters, hoses, belts, tires, brakes, shocks, struts, nuffler, smog hardware and tune ups to be just wear and tear items to be expected expenses on any vehicle, new or used unless you purchased an expensive car that includes some maintenance.





Did you use genuine Honda parts in your rebuild? I only have 181,000 miles on my Honda CRV and hope to get up to your mileage one day. Your story is inspiring to me.
 
Labour is a huge factor, for instance. The last time I replaced a clutch, the clutch kit cost about $60. MY labour cost zero.

If the car had gone to a shop or dealership, the cost would have been much, much higher.
Back in the past, I have even used second hand components costing virtually nothing.

So to my mind, the way you phrase the question, makes it pointless
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Labour is a huge factor, for instance. The last time I replaced a clutch, the clutch kit cost about $60. MY labour cost zero.

If the car had gone to a shop or dealership, the cost would have been much, much higher.
Back in the past, I have even used second hand components costing virtually nothing.

So to my mind, the way you phrase the question, makes it pointless


+1 in only pay for tire work & serpentine belts because the 2grfe is a PITA to change without a lift.
 
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A good starting point as a swag would be an oil change every 5k, 2-3 sets of brakes with at least one rotor swap, a new radiator, spark plugs 2-3 times, a few transmission services, and see where that puts you.
 
I've taken 2 cars to 200K miles. I'd estimate that #1 cost me $3K-$4K while #2 was in the $4K-$6K range. And that was using auto shop labor for everything but motor oil and spark plug/wire changes.
 
$17,134 (or ~$0.11 per mile) has been my cost for a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am GT with the 3.1L with 224k miles currently on the odometer. This doesn't include gasoline but does include car tags & insurance. It doesn't include the new vehicle purchase price. Cosmetic care costs have not been included such as car wash, wax, etc. I've done my own maintenance but have others perform tire mount & balance as well as alignments. No body work by anyone. I have done a bunch of UOAs which is included in that cost. I've run a variety of higher end fluids from time-to-time but have also ran average fluids as well. Right now I'm running Lubrication Engineers 5W30 which is $7.08/qt. I do keep it decently well maintained.

$21,408 (or ~$0.10 per mile) has been my cost for a 2002 Honda Accord EX with V6 and 4-speed auto. Oddly enough it also has 224k miles currently. This doesn't include gasoline but does include car tags & insurance. Cosmetic care costs have not been included such as car wash, wax, etc. It doesn't include the new vehicle purchase price. No major maintenance items such as engine or transmission work. No body work. All my own maintenance except tires & alignment. Again, I have done a bunch of UOAs which is included in that cost. I've run some boutique oils in this such as RLI 5/0W20 and RLI ATF but am now running Lubrication Engineers 5W20 & Honda DW-1. It's kept well maintained.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kool1
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Owners in the dry sunbelt have an overwhelming advantage when it comes to the cost of owning, insuring and maintaining an automobile or pickup for personal use.

My Honda has never seen snow and very little rain. It's parked inside in a closed garage at home and many times inside at work. I've owned it since new and have no plans to ever sell it.

My first major expense was replacing all the bearings and seals in the transmission at 200K miles because of noise, along with the first clutch and pressure plate, speedo cable and speedometer assembly. I did the work myself at home and spent about $300 on parts and about $50 to rent a transmission jack for the week. The owner's manual automotive engine oil recommended for the tranny was Mobil 1 10w-30 but now I use Red Line MTL which is more suited to the task. At 430K+ with the MTL there's no noise at all. I replaced the clutch at 400K when I rebuilt the engine. It failed smog because of visible smoke. The oil control rings wore out so I rebuilt the whole engine. The rest of the engine inside was in great shape and would have gone a lot longer if it had not been for those oil control rings and having to pass smog.

I consider fluids, filters, hoses, belts, tires, brakes, shocks, struts, nuffler, smog hardware and tune ups to be just wear and tear items to be expected expenses on any vehicle, new or used unless you purchased an expensive car that includes some maintenance.

Did you use genuine Honda parts in your rebuild? I only have 181,000 miles on my Honda CRV and hope to get up to your mileage one day. Your story is inspiring to me.


I was lucky enough to find an NOS rebuild kit and all the other NOS parts at a dealer that was clearing out all their old obsolete parts. I recommend NOS parts for older Hondas. I was recently burned by a NAPA ignition coil (IC676) and went right back to an NOS coil.

This engine absolutely did not need a rebuild except for the failed oil control rings. The compression test before the tear-down was within new car specs. When I redid the head I was able to re-use all the springs, intake and exhaust valves and camshaft. The head was flat and only required a think clean up pass on the mill.

It appears that Honda engines like to be revved and not lugged. This 1.5L engine with a 3-barrel carb has a sweet spot between 3-3.5K rpm (65-75mph). After a very careful rebuild I ran it on a friends dyno and it produces 80 corrected hp at 6K rpm and 90 ft-lb of corrected torque at 3.4K rpm. The numbers are corrected for weather and calculated at the flywheel. I'm averaging 37-41 miles per gallon on Costco gas driving mixed city and highway miles.

The original factory number in 1984 are 76hp at 6K rpm and 84 ft-lb at 3.5K rpm. The increased performance is from matching manifolds, ports, careful work on the combustion chambers including un-shrouding the edges of the valve seats and a touch of work on the valve guides, a richer main jet, a smaller emulsion tube and several pizzas and some midnight oil burning.

My gas mileage is about exactly the same as before the rebuild except on long freeway trips. The last couple of trips have netted 43mpg and 45mpg, all on the freeway, LA to San Francisco and back. Before this I would have expected something like 40-42mpg, all carefully measured and calculated as usual, no dashboard readings on this car.
 
2004 Sienna FWD
0 to 200k miles: $3975
200k to 220k miles: $3331

Cost above is maintenance and repair costs. The $3331 includs trans rebuild, exhaust manifold, LCAs, ball joints and motor mounts.

All work performed by me except transmission, recalls and tires.
 
Originally Posted By: Kool1
Did you use genuine Honda parts in your rebuild?
I have done more then 60+ engine rebuilds, 99% toyota but a couple of Honda motors, using OEM parts other then bearings, I don't see the benefit.

EngineTech Piston Rings (I got them from RockAuto) work fantastically for these cars, for the D16Y7 I used sealed power piston rings that I got for $15 on a wholesale closeout, worked like a charm, engine completely stopped burning oil, went 10,000 without any oil loss, what so ever, then changed it and sold it to a friend.

I did change the obvious things, valve stem seals...any and all kinds of rubber seals, I'm good at doing a complete head jobs on these engines, but I have yet to find a reason for doing valve "seats", they all looked perfect, and have functioned perfect afterwards, always saw a big increase in performance & mileage afterwards, make sure to tweak the valve spec within the OEM specified range but leave the rest of it alone, and trust the engineers who built it and put it back together, properly torqued.

Note: I take all the valves to a wire wheel, and once done, they look as good as new, OEM > AEM for valves in Honda & Toyota.
 
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