Torquing to Spec

[labman]

If you don't have a set up to check the calibration of a clicker, who knows what torque you may be getting. I am still using the Craftsman beam type I bought in 1966. Never a problem with a head I torqued with it. Or the lug nuts.

 

[tom slick]

 Originally Posted By: wafrederick1

The beam type torque wrenches are worthless,hard to read and I would throw them away.I like the clicker type better

each have their place, a clicker type is worthless for breakaway or running torque.

 

[rationull]

I like the clickers better too, but now I have a bigger (50-250 lb*ft) clicker for lugs and any potential suspension work and a small (0-80 lb*ft or something) beam type that I use for everything else. I had a cheap 10-100 clicker for a while but it ended up breaking its ratchet when torquing on lug nuts (80 ft*lbs) at one point. Cheap [censored]. So for my use I figure that while a beam type is a little harder to use, it's durable and will never need calibration (better for a "workhorse" torque wrench for an unskilled home mechanic like myself).

 

[ET16]

 Originally Posted By: tom slick

You can use a beam or dial type torque wrench for removing bolts. that is the proper way to measure "breakaway torque" and "running torque". http://www.boltscience.com/pages/quality.htm Breakaway torque is always greater than the initial torque spec. Static vs dynamic friction is one of the factors at play. You shouldn't use a click type torque wrench because you can damage the mechanism in the torque wrench. The main concern being that you apply more torque than the wrench is set at adding stress to the wrench.

Thanks for the clarification. I was using a beam-type. I can see how it might not be good for a clicker.

 

[ET16]

 Originally Posted By: tom slick

You can use a beam or dial type torque wrench for removing bolts. that is the proper way to measure "breakaway torque" and "running torque". http://www.boltscience.com/pages/quality.htm Breakaway torque is always greater than the initial torque spec. Static vs dynamic friction is one of the factors at play. You shouldn't use a click type torque wrench because you can damage the mechanism in the torque wrench. The main concern being that you apply more torque than the wrench is set at adding stress to the wrench.

The boltscience article is an interesting read. Thanks for posting it.

 

[mechtech2]

The beam type are very good and accurate. VERY repeatable. You don't have to adjust them often - their spring is at rest when not in use. Click types are easier, but are by no means more accurate. It is like a digital tire gauge - easier and reads to the .01s, but this has nothing to do with it's inherent accuracy.