Torque Wrenches: Beam vs. Clicker

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Not too long ago, I grabbed my 1/2" clicker wrench and started putting lug nuts on. After a bit of use, I realized that it seemingly wasn't "clicking"-I had it set to 60ft-lbs, and it certainly felt like I was going well beyond there. I haven't done any formal calibration, but have since tried it enough to know that the "clicker" is dead in it(yes, I'd always stored it loose, but I suppose that's what you get from Harbor Freight torque wrenches).

I had an immediate need to get some front suspension work done where the torque window on everything was pretty wide-40-70 ft-lbs was typical, and all with castle nuts(I think the wide torque window was to allow you to align split pins in the castle nuts). I needed something, though, so bought a $7 beam type from Menards.

I don't have any great expectations of accuracy from this and I don't know if I'd build an engine with it, but it fit my needs at the time.

I had never used a beam wrench before, and even though it's a whole lot less convenient than a clicker I do like it in some ways. For one, I can see when I'm approaching the torque value, while with a clicker experience will tell you when you're close but the wrench itself doesn't give any indication other than clicking when you reach the setpoint. Obviously too it's bulkier and you have to be able to see the scale.

Still, though, it got me wondering. Given how much simpler a beam type is than a clicker, and the fact that the only "moving" part is the bending of the wrench, it seems like they should hold their calibration assuming they're good from the start. I don't know how good that is for a $7 one, but I'd think a quality one would be good.

Does anyone here regularly use a beam type wrench? Obviously I want to replace my clicker and need to research my better-than-HF options, but in the mean time I'm just wondering how safe I am with a beam wrench. I'm not anticipating any engine work any time soon, so its main use is going to be lugnuts, something I don't consider super critical of exact torque.
 
I used to use a beam type all of the time before I bought the clicker type. I like them for the reasons you gave. I have a visual indication when I'm reaching my torque point. I still use them occasionally. One of mine is off by about 5 lbs but I just compensate for that when I use it.

Both of my beam types and clicker types are Craftsman brand and have held up well so far.
 
Castle nut are nothing I would be concerned about using a torque wrench on. They have such a huge torque spread making them ideal for just tight and then start looking for a hole.
The reason torque is not very important is you are not torquing the thread as much a taped fit, once the play is gone from the taper the nut is just holding it there, yes it has to be tight but not nut busting tight, too tight and you can split an aluminum knuckle for example (seen that some knuckle head used an impact one one).

Some of them are so close to the CV joint you are lucky to get a box wrench in just to break it free the go with the open end because once you loosen it any more and you may not get the wrench out.
Years ago castle nuts and pins were the norm in all sorts of positions making using a torque wrench on them all but impossible.

A beam type torque wrench can be very accurate but it has its challenges, being able to get a good view of the scale and pointer being the most, personally I don't use them much anymore, where they were of value they have been replaced years ago by memory needle dial type.
If you want a TW that does not need to be "zero" after use consider a split beam like these. I am using Amazon for convenience but they can be found cheaper.



 
For decades workshops in NZ used Warren&Brown torque wrenches, they can handle severe abuse. Mechanics seldom owned a torque wrench, it was a shop tool abused by all. My 1/2'' 200 ft/lb is a Warren&Brown, actually branded Repco, but it's W&B, I bought it in 1974, and was checked a couple of years ago - 100% accurate. Their only disadvantage in this day and age is lack of a ratcheting head. They are expensive these days for something so basic, but would still put them above any other torque wrench for quality.

I have an SK beam torque wrench, that has the handle on a pivot, so you are always pulling in the same place, which helps accuracy.
 
I’m more concerned about the quality of the wrench, repeatability, precision, etc., than the type, beam or clicker. When it comes to torque tools, usually, the price is a good indicator.

PI, CDI are good options.
 
Now you are free to fix the clicker gone bad. You now have a reference wrench to see if they read the same. If they do they either are both off the same or they are pretty close to accurate. Just an idea. If three are the same the odds of accuracy go up.
 
I like the 3 idea (low tq, medium & hi) as I have a lill overlap on each. The split beam is almost lugs only, others on engine assembly.
W/3 I can ck each's accuracy somewhat.
Pullin internal head bolts (overhead cam) the other day the "...# lbs of tq then 55* turn more..." had me freqing as it seemed alot of stress on the size bolt (& my arm) and a alloy head/block. I was able to check ona nother wrench, but still my eyes were poppin...
 
Here's what I can add here. 23 year US Navy submarine veteran, nuclear power. Click type torque wrenches NOT ALLOWED by the US Navy. Beam type and dial type are, and the type is called out in the maintenance procedure. Calibration is also a must every 6 months to a year depending on tolerances. There is a very robust calibration program and center at every home port for submarines. Tracking is meticulous.

That tells me a lot.
 
On submarines.

Surely they're used on jets.
Not sure on jets.

I was on 4 submarines and two repair facilities for submarines throughout my career, and at least for subs, not allowed.

Rickover had a pretty big influence, so I don't think they would be allowed on any nuclear powered vessel in the Navy. Which is almost all of the warships (Carriers, destroyers, etc.) I don't know that for a fact though.
 
Here's what I know... I used to service and rebuild big gensets. When torquing mains and rods and such in a big engine, the top of the wrench is facing down, so you need an audible signal. Also, on machines in an enclosure, especially on trailers, when torquing a cylinder head, sometimes your head is on the outside and your hands and the wrench are on the inside. Again, clicker for the win.
I have a beam type wrench. Almost never use it. I also have some dial type wrenches. Usually use them for setting drag on pinion bearings or adjusting fuel injector rockers.
 
I bought a beam style last year thinking it was going to be my primary torque wrench when my Craftsman clicker bit the dust. The dial is too hard to read while you're doing lug nuts, so it's now my backup, and I got another clicker. I think it's pretty accurate, and I think it will stay that way long-term due to the simplicity of it, but it's too hard to use.
 
I have both. I do trust the beam wrenches more. I forgot but some European automaker I believe requires a beam for engine rebuilds.
 
I have had the same experience with the beam as others in that I cannot read the scale face on and apply very much force. It seems I am always at an angle so no matter the accuracy of the wrench my ability to accurately read it is the real issue. But for the OP's situation all you need is in the ball park so weather you see the pointer at an angle or straight on wont matter. If I was doing critical work though I would prefer a dial type.
 
On submarines.

Surely they're used on jets.
Yes, they are allowed on jets. 26yrs here Air Force in back shop jet engines. Worked on the J-79 GE ad the F-100-220 Pratt & Whitney. We had beam for the smaller tolerances. Used clickers as well as dial. Now, I have been retired since 2009 so it might have changed with the more common digital ones. We just had to have the calibration checked every 6 months by our PMEL lab (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory)
 
Yes, they are allowed on jets. 26yrs here Air Force in back shop jet engines. Worked on the J-79 GE ad the F-100-220 Pratt & Whitney. We had beam for the smaller tolerances. Used clickers as well as dial. Now, I have been retired since 2009 so it might have changed with the more common digital ones. We just had to have the calibration checked every 6 months by our PMEL lab (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory)
That's how it is on Army Helos.

Clickers are default but dials are available as well. Never saw a digital wrench working on military equipment. Too expensive.
 
The U.S. military is not the same as a shade tree mechanic. Unfortunately, the cost of calibration for civilians often is more than the cost of a "non-professional" torque wrench. I also seem to have seen a review of torque wrench accuracy out of the box and was surprised at the variance, cost of unit notwithstanding. I guess if I buy Snap-On I'm safe, but that's out of my budget. I use a surplus dial wrench, an old Craftsman beam wrench (seems like if the "arrow" points to zero at the start, it's pretty accurate?), and a couple of budget clickers. I'm most concerned about the inch-pound wrenches for small fasteners as the typical 4-10% accuracy seems like a lot on a little bolt.

I would welcome recommendations from people who have wrenches that they have had regularly calibrated and found accurate over time. That's what I would find helpful. If your wrench has not broken and it has "worked well for me", that does not tell me very much beyond you like it and it has not broken.

Any recommendations? Thanks in advance. ...and, I'm not trying to be snarky, just looking for good advice.
 
You can check the calibration of your wrench easily unless its a critical inlb version. All you need is a hand held luggage scale and a vise. The scales are cheap and easy to check for accuracy too with a know weight. Just clamp the socket end in a vise, set a torque on the wrench and use the scale to pull up on the proper position on the handle. You might need to tie a loop from heavy cord like paracord and do a bit of math if the handle is not 12" but there are several youtube vids that give examples.
 
Yes, they are allowed on jets. 26yrs here Air Force in back shop jet engines. Worked on the J-79 GE ad the F-100-220 Pratt & Whitney. We had beam for the smaller tolerances. Used clickers as well as dial. Now, I have been retired since 2009 so it might have changed with the more common digital ones. We just had to have the calibration checked every 6 months by our PMEL lab (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory)

 
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