Torque Wrench Question

[RoGuE]

I bought a 3/8" 10-100 ft-lb torque wrench a while back. My intentions with it was to torque up everything from caliper bolts, to transmission pan bolts. It seems like this the range on this torque wrench is either too low or too high.

Would I be better off returning this and getting a dial type torque wrench, like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944978000P?keyword=torque+wrench

The range is 0-75 ft-lbs on it so I should be able to do the smaller stuff with it. Such as the trans bolts that require 97 in-lbs (about 8ft-lbs)

 

[bdcardinal]

that wrench is even on the low end of being reliable. generally you throw out the lower and upper 10% of the rating. for the trans bolts you might want to consider some in-lb 1/4 drive torque wrenches, i think i have a few on the smaller range from MATCO.

 

[soldierman]

Unless you have a real nice torque wrench the bottom 20% is not a good idea to use. Esp on short bolts in Al. I don't personally use a torque wrench there (T-pan) I just snug them with a speed handle. (no ratchets or wrenches for me there.) If I don't have a speed handle I'll choke all the way up on the ratchet so my index finger is "above" the extension or socket.

 

[Pman]

I use gear wrench for my 1/2 torque wrench. I think they make 2 different ranges for the 3/8"

My 3/8 is an old proto with a range of about 10 -60.

Shop at the tool wharehouse. They have some good stuff.

Personaly, I don't like the bar style torque wrench.

 

[The Critic]

A typical torque wrench is generally accurate from 20% to full scale. So, a 0-75 ft-lb torque wrench is accurate from 15 ft-lbs to 75 ft-lbs.

You'll need three torque wrenches to cover everything. A Snap-On 40-200 in-lb, 5-75 ft-lb and 50-250 ft-lb should cover all of your needs.

 

[labman]

How much do your caliper bolts take, much over 100? If not, I would put a dab of antiseize on them and reduce to 80% of spec.

I would then buy another lower range one. Maybe as somebody said, 3 of them.

I think the average DIY is better off with a beam type. Yes they are harder to use, and not as accurate as a recently calibrated clicker. However, they can go for years without being calibrated.

 

[RoGuE]

The thing that gets me is that I will only be using this thing once or twice and it will sit a couple years before I probably even touch it again. That's why I was concerned with this clicker type and started looking into the beam type. As it is this one I have cost $78 and I can't afford to get two more that may be even more money. What I need is a friend nearby with all these tools, lol.

 

[benjamming]

Pay someone to do it then. Or don't torque them. I don't really see the other choices that you think exist. :dunno:

 

[jcwit]

I dont know but for no more than you're going to use it I'd get a Harbor Freight for around $15.00.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
I dont know but for no more than you're going to use it I'd get a Harbor Freight for around $15.00.

 

[George7941]

Even Harbor Freight clicker torque wrenches will work if you keep them calibrated. I do my own calibration of my clickers by comparing them to a beam type torque wrench that I also own.

 

[jcwit]

Honestly I can't see what would be the problem with a Harbor Freight clicker for occasional use. Now for daily use in a shop is another thing.

After all he said he was only going to use it maybe 2 times in 2 years.

 

[RoGuE]

hmm, I'm liking this Harbor Freight torque wrench idea. There is a retail store about 30 minutes away from me...

Although after doing a goodle search of "harbor freight torque wrench good?" I am a little turned off...

 

[The Critic]

I'm on my third HF torque wrench in a little less than 18 months. The handle always gets stuck and won't turn.

 

[RoGuE]

How heavily do you use them?

 

[The Critic]

Maybe once a month.

 

[jcwit]

Well I read a bunch of the replies that was suggested using the google search and it does seem to be hit and miss. Probably depends on how one uses and takes care of it. Mine seem AOK so far have never had any trouble with lock-up or not turning, you do have to turn the release loose tho.

Oh well I'm satified and at the age of 66 they'll more than likely last as long as I require.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I have two Northern Tool clickers (3/8 and 1/2) that have seen weekly use for the past two years. Just had them checked on the Snappy truck along with a couple of Snap-on clickers and 3 CDI electric strain gauge wrenches. Those El Cheapo's were still within 4% or less at the upper, middle and lower end of their scales.

I put them on the lowest setting when putting the away (ex. 20 lbs on the 20 to 150 1/2" wrench) and always store them in their case. I also don't drop them and watch where they are placed. Even though they are cheap, they are still a precision tool and not a hammer....although some guys I work with think hammers are precision tools....

 

[doitmyself]

I, too, have an Asian Great Neck 1/2" torque wrench (a gift) that still tests well compared to my old beam wrenches. IMO, ALL torque wrenches, regardless of brand, should be treated as if they might have gone bad since last used. Too many people grab them out of the drawer(after months) and proceed to twist off the fastener. On delicate fasteners, I suggest testing them on an appropriate sized nut/bolt clamped in a vice. Of course, this will not apply so much to every day, professionals users.

All micrometer mfg. recommend "exercising the wrench prior to use to get the internal lubricant spread around. I take mine for a walk (leashed, of course)around the block.

Regarding the OP's original question. A few years ago, I tried using my Craftsman inch lb. beam wrench on a transmission pan with gasket and I smooshed the gasket. More recent, I used an electronic Snap On Tech wrench and did o.k., but it was still iffy.

Here's my theory. When you torque down a "soft" gasket, it compresses to give your initial torque. If you come back around again, the gasket has "relaxed" a bit and you can retorque it again. to spec. It seems that you can do this over and over until the gasket is distorted.

To me, it seems you should torque it initially up to spec.(in three steps to be even), then QUIT. If you feel it needs more, give it a 1/16 to 1/8 turn manually, by feel. Does this make sense? Torque it up with a TQ wrench to get it even (if that's your method), then finish by hand. I also had a bit of light seepage after a few months and tightened them again, about 1/8 turn. Many just tighten it by feel from the get-go.

Hope this helps!