Torque for used plugs?

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Hi car gurus.

I would like to inspect my plugs.
When I put them back in what torque spec should I use?
The same when I installed them?

Thanks everyone.
 
If you're going to remove them, and they've been in the car awhile, why not just replace them? :unsure:

Since you have a transverse V6 in your sig, the job is likely impossible, so if you take them out, you should replace them along with the valve cover gaskets (90% of the work is already done, so you might as well replace them too while you're under there).

How many miles on the car? And what car is it for?
 
Thanks I thought it was regular torque spec.

I forgot to check the gaps before I put them in last spring.
Tired parent brain.
I'm sure they are gapped to small.
Check em tomorrow.

Thanks again.
 
May want to reduce a little bit because I would apply anti seize to the threads. They may have came with trivalent plating or whatever the particular manufacturer calls it. But once you remove them they recommend putting anti seize on because that coating will no longer be on there. Me personally I always use anti seize on them even if they are new because I’ve dealt with too many seized plugs and broke many off. I do plugs by feel don’t really torque them down but if you aren’t used to the feel then I do recommend torquing them down.
 
If you forgo a torque wrench and use the mfg. instructions regarding "hand tight, then xx degrees more", remember the above comment about the crush washer already compressed. You won't be able to follow the mfg. recommendation about degrees turn to tighten.

Also, regarding the antiseize controversy: some believe that removal and reinstallation compromises the thin factory thread plating and that a tiny bit of anti seize when installing used plugs is appropriate. EDIT: AutoMechanic beat me to it!!
 
Never used a torque wrench for plugs, I know by "feel" how tight they should be. If I were to go through the effort to remove the plugs, I would put new ones in.
 
In my iron head engines I won't. But i have a plug spitter 5400. That is getting torqued to 23 lb/ft exactly!
The only engines I personally would use a torque wrench on as you, would be the Ford V8's which have a habit of blowing the spark plug out of the head.
 
The only engines I personally would use a torque wrench on as you, would be the Ford V8's which have a habit of blowing the spark plug out of the head.
It's going to be due for plugs soon. I'll be sweating bullets. From what I hear, you want to over torque them from the factory 14lb/ft to 23 and they won't spit plugs. I have a friend who does them on 5.4s with a 1/4'' electric impact. Runs them in until they hit the first hammer then stops. He says he never had one spit!
 
Unless MPG has gone down, car misses or has a stumble what are you going to inspect them for??? How many miles on plugs?
8,000kms on plugs.
Noticed some serious delay on acceleration.

Anyway....took them out, they were indeed gapped way to small.
.044" is factory. They were 0.029.....

HUGE difference in the way the car runs now.
Thanks tall. Torqued them to spec with zero issues.

For some reason I though they were pre gapped for my application. NGK confirmed that this indeed was not the case.

Take care.
 
It's going to be due for plugs soon. I'll be sweating bullets. From what I hear, you want to over torque them from the factory 14lb/ft to 23 and they won't spit plugs. I have a friend who does them on 5.4s with a 1/4'' electric impact. Runs them in until they hit the first hammer then stops. He says he never had one spit!
Yikes........wowzers
 
If there is a good reason to remove and / or replace the plugs, then of course do so. But used parts often have lots of life left, it depends on the type of part and the amount of use and its condition.
 
8,000kms on plugs.
Noticed some serious delay on acceleration.

Anyway....took them out, they were indeed gapped way to small.
.044" is factory. They were 0.029.....

HUGE difference in the way the car runs now.
Thanks tall. Torqued them to spec with zero issues.

For some reason I though they were pre gapped for my application. NGK confirmed that this indeed was not the case.

Take care.

Did you use the OE plugs? Because the OE plugs usually are pre-gapped :unsure:

(you don't have to buy them from the dealer, as the same OE plugs are available in the parts stores or online)
 
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