Toilet Choices

Looking to replace at least one, and likely two toilets. Must be elongated bowl, and I would really prefer it be a "holeless" rim design. I don't care if it's chair or standard height (although standard height seems harder to find in stock), don't care how much water it uses, and don't care if it's skirted.

Toto: I know that the Drake is everyone's darling, but I am seeing other compelling options for almost half the price. I also see plenty of accounts of people unsatisfied with the Drake, and it seems that you are lucky if you order one of these and it arrives not broken in a million pieces.

Kohler: I know that @walterjay likes these. Reviews suggest that QC is lacking and that there are many unique parts, causing the potential for serviceability concerns. I noticed I could get a Highline or an Elliston for $200...would lean Elliston for the 360 flush.

American Standard: seems the most polarizing...either plumbers love them or absolutely hate them. Perhaps the most questionable QC...I'm particularly concerned about cracking of tanks. I can get a Titan (same as a Champion, I think?) for $210 or a Vormax for $200 which seems like a good deal. Vormax has the 360 flush and has two flush valves...questionable reliability/more to break?

Would love any feedback on these options. These 3 brands seem the most realistic for me from an availability standpoint.
Toto Toto toto
Go to your local plumbers supply store that sells them and they will be comparably priced to the kohler and other brands better offerings. I’ve never paid anywhere near msrp for a Toto and I put 3 in the last house and just put four in my current house. It’s the first thing I do when I get a new construction home. Rip out builder grade things gently and sell them cheap.
 
I've put 5 of these in three different homes. 10 years+ no issues with the two homes we have now.
Project Source Pro White Elongated Chair Height 2-piece Toilet 12-in Rough-In WaterSense 1.28 GPF MT-802PRO at Lowes.com https://share.google/IbBiNX8IwZ9vzd6Xf
I agree, in my previous post I mentioned that in our last home I replaced the toilets in that house. These are the ones I used, they work very well FAR better than what the builder used in our last home. Using the toilet you posted is a no brainer and the price is amazing. I put in two of them, never got to the 3rd as I already did that one with another brand a year earlier... so I was all set but then we decided to move and sold the house. Still miss that house@!

In our current home I am very impressed with what our home builder used as posted.
 
As mentioned earlier in this thread, my plumber installed a Kohler Cimarron when doing a recent plumbing rehab project. Reading reviews on the Cimarron, though, lots of complaints of leakage from the tank attachment to the bowl. Also, talk of proprietary flush valves, which may be hard to find in time of crisis. Makes me wonder if I should stock up on spares?

My last toilet was a Kohler, and it served well for many years. Also, that review posted above suggested that they flush well. What I don't understand is why there are so many different models? It's just crazy. I'm not talking about models with clearly differentiated features, I'm talking about toilets that seem functionally identical, with price points also very close. Buying a toilet is almost as bad as buying a bed.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I'm leaning towards a Kohler with the 360 flush. I don't doubt that a Drake may be better...but I doubt it is enough of an improvement to justify enough added value for the added cost. I'll replace one toilet and determine if I want to do another Kohler for the 2nd or something else. Another consideration is that I can't get a Toto in stock anywhere locally...would have to ship and I have seen way too many examples and stories of people who give up on ordering since they repeatedly arrive broken. If I buy the Kohler I can look at it before taking it home. Parts for the Kohler appear to be readily available 2 blocks away from me so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't heard of any concerns with the "flush tower" and I think the fill valve is just a simple Fluidmaster.

Edit - I was assuming a 12" rough-in but I just measured and one of my toilets is a 10", the other is a 12". Both were installed when the house was built and otherwise look identical...no remodels, anything. Why the heck would they use a different rough-in for one vs the other?
 
Last edited:
The higher seat toilets are becoming the standard. I understand that some need a squatty potty to "perform", even with the old standard height.
I have to wonder if this is creating a problem for a realistic number of people.
 
Why the heck would they use a different rough-in for one vs the other?
Poor planing?

10" rough-in limits your options. Kohler only has the Highline at 10". Highline seems fine, though. Again, it's hard to separate the difference between models, for me anyway.
 
Poor planing?

10" rough-in limits your options. Kohler only has the Highline at 10". Highline seems fine, though. Again, it's hard to separate the difference between models, for me anyway.
Yeah it looks like neither Kohler nor AS offer the 360 flush in a 10", so it appears that if I don't want the holes around the rim then Toto it is.
 
I buy the one that fit in the dimension. We have a shelf on top and the only one that fit with elongated bowl is a $200 one from I forgot which brand (Kohler I think). As long as you get the similar size and flush rating one they should all work similarly and it is all style choices.

I would pay for the more expensive easier to clean coating one, that's money well spent with less to clean for the next 20 years.
 
when comparing toilets size per size get the one that weighs more (lbs) as more material (porcelain) in construction of toilet and get one with a thicker base where mounting J bolts fasten to soil pipe/floor and look for a glazed trap. inside of toilet look for more standard internal valve/mechanism ,so some day when repairs are needed, you can get replacement part (s) more easy.
 
Last edited:
when comparing toilets size per size get the one that weighs more (lbs) as more material (porcelain) in construction of toilet and get one with a thicker base where mounting J bolts fasten to soil pipe/floor and look for a glazed trap. inside of toilet look for more standard internal valve/mechanism ,so some day when repairs are needed, you can get replacement part (s) more easy.

There’s really no standard flush mechanism these days, whether it’s a larger flapper or a tower valve, like the ones from Kohler. Parts aren’t necessarily cheap, but they’re easy to find. I’ve got a Fluidmaster 540 flapper that’s still working like new over a decade later. Fill valves are very much universal and easy to replace. There can be some exceptions for low profile toilets, but they generally perform poorly.
 
The higher seat toilets are becoming the standard. I understand that some need a squatty potty to "perform", even with the old standard height.
I have to wonder if this is creating a problem for a realistic number of people.
Yeah, tends to be 3 heights at outlets - the American Standard I just put in our utility room is 19” …
 
Toto Drake gets my vote. I put one in the master bath about 6 years ago and it’s been great. Still looks like new and doesn’t clog, it’s where I go when I have serious business to do…

Around Xmas time the wife informed me that we(I) were going to replace the Toliet in the kids bathroom because the coating is looking rough. I was happy to change it out because it seems like I’m always dealing with it clogging.

Picked up a Toto drake on Boxing Day online(for ~$500CAD) and had it delivered, showed up not broken and install was easier than the first one as I knew what I was doing(get the higher end “wax” ring). I haven’t had to deal with a clogged Toliet again since I put it in a couple months ago.
 
Back
Top Bottom