90s Integra, 280k miles, probably worth about $2-3k max but at least $1500 for crushing for emission buyback.
Accident today in a small fender bender. Rear ended a CRV in a sudden freeway stop and wheels already locked up, my fault. The CRV seems fine other than a light cracked. The top of my front bumper is pushed in a bit and the hood bent / folded about 2 inches. Hood still closing, top of front bumper is pushed in but the bottom is fine. I think the hood latch is pushed into and slightly bent the AC condenser. Drivable still but will need to fix it.
The problem now: every body part...
Accident today in a small fender bender. Rear ended a CRV in a sudden freeway stop and wheels already locked up, my fault. The CRV seems fine other than a light cracked. The top of my front bumper is pushed in a bit and the hood bent / folded about 2 inches. Hood still closing, top of front bumper is pushed in but the bottom is fine. I think the hood latch is pushed into and slightly bent the AC condenser. Drivable still but will need to fix it.
The problem now: every body part...
- PandaBear
- Replies: 42
- Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum
Previously I got into an accident that the hood is bent. After I tore out the bumper and try to pull the radiator support back, I found out that "somethings" are bent left and right to compensate for the radiator support pushed inward by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. I look at the body line of the front fenders and see that they are bulging slightly over the highest point of the wheel wells. Anyways, the conclusion is either I have to go the traditional way to PULL something back in place, or I have to find a way to bolt the hood down to compensate for the hood hook and latch being off by 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
I helped my dad arranging a similar repair last year on a Mazda 5 and the pulling + head light is about $2300 total. If I have no headlight damage the repair would probably be about $1800 if done correctly. This car is worth $1350-2000 depending on whether it fail smog or if the owner is in poverty, so not really a point in doing a good frame pull. At this point I think a new (used) hood also no longer makes sense, and having a dent hood with hood pin or latch seem to be the most economical and reasonable solution. Now the question is:
1) Is it dangerous to use hood pin if you hit a pedestrian (just in case) at lowish speed? I don't expect to hit a pedestrian above 30 mph but never say never. There are some hood pins that stick out an inch or so, from say Summit Racing. Is it safe or should they be only used on track cars.
2) Security. I know that people can always slim jim a car then unhook the hood cable, but knowing someone have an unlocked hood latch or pin system is going to eventually get battery stolen. I just bought a new battery last month so it is not like I have a 4 year old battery nobody will steel. Any recommendation for which lock system to use? In the worst case I guess I can install even a pretentious lock that is not connecting to anything as deterrence and use a non locking sturdy one for load bearing.
3) Would it be easier to install hood pins or hood latch? I have a relatively curvy hood so I am worried about pin not able to sit flush for the locking system. Will a Jeep hood latch be able to fit any other curvy car if I don't mind drilling holes on the exterior? (assuming I don't care about look).
4) Any recommendation on aftermarket hood loop / hook hitch system that has adjustable positioning?
5) How strong do these system have to be to hold down a normal passenger car hood at 85-90 mph? I don't typically go above 80 but safety margin is nice.