Ways to prevent, reverse/undo battery sulfation to have battery last long.

Carlostrece

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The methods I use are as follows.

My car sits a lot and is only occasionally driven. So it needs a smart, pulsing, trickle charger to keep battery charged and prevent or reduce sulfation.

Specifically, I keep a Batteryminder brand model 1500 (1.5A) smart trickle charger (battery tender) on my battery when my car is parked in my garage. I do this with hood open for convenience.

This could also be done outdoors with hood closed, but not latched, or with hood latched if you route the cord under bumper and up through engine bay.

Closed hood is only possible if there's enough clearance between hood and battery posts to use a charger with hood closed.

Outdoors is possible if you have a secure place to plugin and a secure enough location where no one will steal or vandalize your charger or engine.

Always unplug charger from 110V wall power before removing alligator clamps from battery. This prevents sparks near battery, which improves safety.

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If you have a wet/flooded battery with removeable caps, then check battery fluid level once a year. Add distilled water if fluid is slow.

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The above are classic American methods that help the battery.

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I also bought a battery load tester, which I plan to use to test the battery once in Oct or Nov every year in future.

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The below are classic Japanese methods that I just learned about from the following Youtube video. In the video they use hot tap water. My water is very hard water (lots of calcium). So I'd use hot distilled water. Besides hot water, they have several other methods/tricks. Please see video.

 
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I have several BatteryTender products for my various low-frequency use applications.

Of note, just last year I replaced the battery in my Kubota L3430 tractor; it was OE and 18 (eighteen!) years old when it finally gave up the ghost. I credit that longevity to the technology of the BatteryTender and its anti-sulfation pulse programming. My motorcycle batteries typically lasted 8-10 years as well; also above the "normal" expectations for such applications.

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As for the claims in the video, that hot water alone will desulfate the plates, I find that hard to believe. Heating the external terminals somehow dissolves the sulfates on the inside of the battery? Hogwash! The video claims that "studies" have shown this to be true. Yeah? Well, cite your sources; what "studies" ? Show me the source info for that Intel. The video itself is AI narrated; it does not even pronounce "lead" (Pb) properly ...

And while I agree it's a good thing to keep the terminals clean, the video does not provide any proof of a link between battery life and terminal condition.

Further, while it's generally true of older charging systems, many newer vehicles use BMS (battery monitoring systems) to manage the voltage lower than 14v when running. The video completely ignores that fact.

Heated battery blankets? Ha! If we can't get someone to keep the terminals clean, how it is that you can expect someone to plug/unplug a heated battery blanket during winter? While I agree keeping a battery from exposure to extreme cold isn't a bad idea, many vehicles today have a packaging design which simply prohibits such application. Batteries are not always easily accessed, and space limitations prevent such care. Again, this is just a video hit piece of "suggestions" from AI collective think.

Overall, the video is just AI garbage.


But the conversation about sulfation is germane to battery life, and a high-quality battery maintenance device (such as BatteryTender) does actually provide a positive result.
 
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I have several BatteryTender products for my various low-frequency use applications.

Of note, just last year I replaced the battery in my Kubota L3430 tractor; it was OE and 18 (eighteen!) years old when it finally gave up the ghost. I credit that longevity to the technology of the BatteryTender and its anti-sulfation pulse programming. My motorcycle batteries typically lasted 8-10 years as well; also above the "normal" expectations for such application
I did quick glance at the Battery Tender web page and could not find any information about anti-sulfation pulse programming.
 
I Googled that Battery Minder 1500. Interesting it states it has a full time high frequency pulse desulfator... and at a good price!
I'm gonna need do some research and learning on the desulfator as I assume my normal battery tenders I use don't have that? Perhaps the NOCO does but I may need to turn it own as its not auto? I'm not sure?

I have owned many a Harley 30 years now and my bikes are ALWAYS connected to a tender EVERY night after I ride!

I always use a East Penn ( Deka ) AGM batteries old under the O'Reilly brand or the Harley OEM, AGM thats also made by East Penn and the same battery minis the Harley Logo.

As far as maintainers I use the Harley brand made by NOCO and the larger NOCO Genius on a 2nd bike as well as a old shumaker on my old EVO and a very old Black & Decker that is waterproof and great for outdoor charging that most recent stayed connected to a garage queen 2015 Hellcat for 11 years straight. The car sitting most of the time in a hot garage I got 5 years out of the factory battery replaced with a NAPA wet, flooded non AGM and I replaced that battery 3 weeks ago before selling the car so the car was 11 years old and battery replaced 2x! Right on schedule, about EVERY FIVE (5) YEARS.

Its my understanding my hot southern summers and hot garage is harder on a batteries life than living in a cool area? You Arizona folks please chime in???

I keep everything I don't drive everyday on a tender. Years ago I had bad luck with the old Battery Tender brand and would replace more dead tenders than batteries but I have had great luck and NO failed tenders the last 10 years I guess but I no longer buy the Battery Tender brand.

In general living on the Hot Summer Southern coast in hot Carolina with a hot garage I get about 5 years out of a battery, a Harley battery, a car battery, I get 4-5 years and once 7 years on a older Harley battery with 5 years being the norm.

I did recently purchase via Amazon one of those yellow ( China name ) battery charges for my 8 volt Club Car Trojan Golf Cart batteries. I allowed my Club Car charge to get so low the factory Club Car charger would not start charging.

Finding a 8 volt charger was a bit of a challenge but these Amazon china charges will do 8 volts! Most of the user guide was in Chinese and broken English and not sure what the difference between smart and fast charge setting was but that $30 China Charger got my old Golf Cart batteries working again!

Getting 5 years with my maintainers now, multi brands, I wonder would that Battery Maintainer 1500 do much for me in the real world and get me say 6 or 7 years average? on a motorcycle / car/ truck? I think 5 years is whats expected with my heat but I'm always open for "better"...

I may buy a Battery Minder 1500 just to try it.
 
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This item is partially misleading. The terminal corrosion is caused by leaking of acid fumes through faulty seals around the post. Maybe the hot water will remove some of it, but until you remove the cable and clean the contact surfaces on both the post and terminal you will not have removed all of the corrosion.
 
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I have had good luck with one of those wire brush old school battery terminal cleaners to clean a new battery terminal before I put the new battery in and I always add those round felt pads under the connector ( both the battery brush thing and pads are found in the now locked battery case at Walmart ) and I use Deoxit and Deoxit gold in a small amount to cover the terminals and may reapply a dab of Deoxit gold on top of the terminal every year or so ( without disconnecting the battery ) do these simple steps I have not seen any battery corrosion on any car or motorcycle or even Golf Cart battery in MANY many ( like 20 ) years. I do use a small coating of vaseline on my Golf Cart batteries, all my battery connections look same as new new 5 years after install when time to replace the battery. I do live in a area with no road salt and warm winters.
 
I did quick glance at the Battery Tender web page and could not find any information about anti-sulfation pulse programming.
I don't know why it's gone; they used to brag about it right on their site. Now, this is all they state:
" ... battery charger has microprocessor controlled power electronic circuitry which enables it to preform and safely control a number of sophisticated charging functions, well beyond the capability of inexpensive trickle chargers."

What is interesting now, is that they claim their products don't desulfate. A 180 degree reversal of their old claims.

All my BT devices are 10+ years old; they use the old tech. I've had great success with them. I cannot comment about newer tech they use; I don't own anything recent enough.
 
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As stated above. Lots of AI generated that doesn't account for so many things. My '19 Pilot has a battery in a plastic case that seals it off and has a fan to cool it/vent it. I can't see wrapping anything around that. Some of my cars had a fiberglass "insulator" pad around them. Not sure if that was to protect from engine heat, keep warm, other reason. Some of those got bigger batteries for higher trims or 6 cyl vs 4 cyl.

Basic maintenance keeps so many things working better, not just battery. Drive at least 30 minutes every other week, at speed, no traffic, maybe mid west somewhere, very rarely in NY. How much gas is used and other cost per mile items as compared to battery? My Honda's as @dnewton3 said all have variable output alternators. '19 Pilot I was actually able to do over 1.5 hours driving at highway speed, daytime on a holiday. Battery was almost new, voltage readout never went over 12.8V if I didn't step on the brake. Night time coming back with headlights on it was 14.4V the whole time because of load sense from headlights.

I can say that my car (Accord, Sonata prior) all get a lot more life out of the battery than my other vehicles. I have a 25-30 minute drive to work, headlights on since I work nights, voltage shows over 14V the whole time. Daytime coming home varies on voltage.

My terminals stay clean, or at least get cleaned. I use simple green on the whole motor at least 2x per year. If I see any corrosion I'll use like CRC battery cleaner/acid neutralizer. I rarely spray mine with protector or use any grease etc. Other people I do stuff for I may use stuff as well as those green/red washers.

The short trip thing is real IMO. My wife drives 2 miles each way. All of her cars need a charge at least 2x per year as voltage drops some, cranks slower etc. I have a CTEK 7002 with recovery/desulphation and maintenance mode. I normally just do the regular charge as the recovery charges at higher output and I have concern with fluid getting boiled off if done too much.

My cars are outside 24/7/365, some nowhere near an outlet. My schedule and wife/kids don't match up so well to hook it up and leave it all the time. I get some weekend nights/days but need to account for rain also.

The shock from really hot water? I doubt it. Maybe you'll get some thermal conduction right at terminal but not across all the plates. For most people they don't have the knowledge on doing these things. They really don't care. They might not have places to do that like living in cities/apartments. Go ahead and run an extension cord from your apartment to your trickle charger on your car parked in NYC and come back later to check on it.

Even though I like it, especially while driving on road, their is a reason TPMS was mandated because people can't be relied on to check tire pressure weekly. Then they get a flat, crash and sue the tire companies and car companies for their crappy stuff. Not that they wore them down past tread to full steel belts and only had 10 psi. None of those people are doing weekly/monthly measuring and maintenance.

Those are also reasons that probably 99.9% of the members here at BITOG are much better equipped and prepared for cars and life than at least 75% of the general public. That grows as generations go by and all car/teaching knowledge is lost. Change a flat tire, light bulb, add washer fluid? Forget about actual bigger maintenance.

@Carlostrece - you could get that small eyelet extension wire and keep it mounted, no clamps. They come with covers for when not in use. Route it by your grill as you described. For a rarely used vehicle or other, I think a trickle will help a lot for longer battery life.

Now lets discuss lithium ion batteries, keeping them on a charger in your garage........
 
I personally would never try this or any other voodoo science trick on any battery, one would be literally playing with fire. I have 5 machines in my garage that have 12 volt batteries in them so I wouldn’t be able to sleep a wink after performing this trick on any battery. The Lexus branded battery that was in my wife’s ES350 lasted over 8 years with occasional charges of 24+ hours from my old Schumacher 1.5 maintainer. It was still starting her car but I decided to preemptively replace the battery that had a date sticker of April of 17 for fear of her getting stranded. My Harley has been hooked to a 2 amp Schumacher for years 24/7. My 1998 John Deere mower is only on its 3rd battery in 28 years so I’m a believer that a maintainer that desulfates will keep a battery healthy for years.

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I did quick glance at the Battery Tender web page and could not find any information about anti-sulfation pulse programming.
I couldn't find any mention of pulsation at BatteryTender's website. So I didn't think the BatteryTender brand of maintainer pulses, but it @dnewton3 says it pulses, then maybe it does. He has experience with that brand. I don't have experience with that brand.

I bought a Batteryminder brand, because it's smarter than most and talks at length about pulsation desulfating. A blue light on it blinks every time it pulses. It's been working well for me.
 
I couldn't find any mention of pulsation at BatteryTender's website. So I didn't think the BatteryTender brand of maintainer pulses, but it @dnewton3 says it pulses, then maybe it does. He has experience with that brand. I don't have experience with that brand.

I know for sure that many years ago, they claimed a pulse technology which actually involved a very brief (as in fractional second) reversal of the polarity to cause disruption to the sulfates and loosen them. At least, that was their claim back then; it was in their FAQs. I bought my first BT nearly 30 years ago, so it's reasonable to think things have changed. They were kind of "new" on the scene with their technology; they were far more than just a dumb (unlimited) charger. I'm loyal to the brand merely because I own about 10 of them; all purchased more than a decade ago. I've had great success with their products. I had one go "bad", and they replaced it under warranty, even though it was probably 15+ years old. So good customer service in that regard; that earns my loyalty.


I would admit that, given the other choices in the marketplace now, BT is not the only brand to consider. There are plenty of good ones now. But as with most things, you will have to spend some decent money to get one with a good build quality AND the right technology to truly condition and maintain the battery (not just "charge" it). If I were in the market today, CTEK is a brand I'd also consider.
 
I Googled that Battery Minder 1500. Interesting it states it has a full time high frequency pulse desulfator... and at a good price!
I'm gonna need do some research and learning on the desulfator as I assume my normal battery tenders I use don't have that? Perhaps the NOCO does but I may need to turn it own as its not auto? I'm not sure?
I researched brands battery maintainers a lot before buying one. It's the best that I know of.

I have owned many a Harley 30 years now and my bikes are ALWAYS connected to a tender EVERY night after I ride!
I like to let my mobility scooter's AGM deep cycle batteries cool for a couple hours after a long ride (especially in summer) before putting its 4A charger on it. Same for my car's wet battery before I put 1.5A charger on it.

Two or more hours for battery to cool before putting a maintainer on a battery is a good idea (in summer) IMO. Why?

Using a battery heats a battery. Charging also heats a battery. Too much (or too often) heating a battery will dry it out internally faster/sooner. That reduces battery service life.

So I suggest waiting until 2+ hours after use before charging. At least on warm/hot summer days.

Also, motorcyle or car doesn't need a charger/maintainer if/when it goes on a 30+ min highway drive at least once a week.

I always use a East Penn ( Deka ) AGM batteries old under the O'Reilly brand or the Harley OEM, AGM thats also made by East Penn and the same battery minis the Harley Logo.
I have an Oreily Superstart flooded battery in my Buick. It's a great battery at an OK price. However, in future I'll buy Walmart Everstart because it's the same or similar battery for 50% less money.

As far as maintainers I use the Harley brand made by NOCO and the larger NOCO Genius on a 2nd bike as well as a old shumaker on my old EVO and a very old Black & Decker that is waterproof and great for outdoor charging that most recent stayed connected to a garage queen 2015 Hellcat for 11 years straight. The car sitting most of the time in a hot garage I got 5 years out of the factory battery replaced with a NAPA wet, flooded non AGM and I replaced that battery 3 weeks ago before selling the car so the car was 11 years old and battery replaced 2x! Right on schedule, about EVERY FIVE (5) YEARS.

Its my understanding my hot southern summers and hot garage is harder on a batteries life than living in a cool area? You Arizona folks please chime in???
Hot climates and cold climates are hard on battery, starter, and alternator, but for differing reasons, IMO.

I keep everything I don't drive everyday on a tender. Years ago I had bad luck with the old Battery Tender brand and would replace more dead tenders than batteries but I have had great luck and NO failed tenders the last 10 years I guess but I no longer buy the Battery Tender brand.
In my research, it appeared to me that Batteryminder and NOCO are the best that I know of.

BTW - Batteryminder claims to be waterproof for outdoor charging. I occasionally use it outdoors in my wet climate, but I put it under car hood for shelter. I see no reason to test how water resistant Batteryminder is when I can just close the hood most of the way.

Most of the time I use it on my car in my garage.

In general living on the Hot Summer Southern coast in hot Carolina with a hot garage I get about 5 years out of a battery, a Harley battery, a car battery, I get 4-5 years and once 7 years on a older Harley battery with 5 years being the norm.
You're doing well. My goal is 4-5 years with the dream of 7-8 years from my flooded car battery. We'll see how long my battery lasts now. Prior to buying a maintainer I was only getting 2-3 years per battery.

I did recently purchase via Amazon one of those yellow ( China name ) battery charges for my 8 volt Club Car Trojan Golf Cart batteries. I allowed my Club Car charge to get so low the factory Club Car charger would not start charging.
The best aftermarket chargers for mobility scooters and golf carts is Soneil, IMO. It's smart, 5 stages, bulk stage pulses, the works with a cherry on top. Soneil is a Canadian company which sells in Canada, USA, and possibly worldwide.

Finding a 8 volt charger was a bit of a challenge but these Amazon china charges will do 8 volts! Most of the user guide was in Chinese and broken English and not sure what the difference between smart and fast charge setting was but that $30 China Charger got my old Golf Cart batteries working again!
Hopefully that $30 Chinese charger works well for you. A Soneil would have cost more. I bought a 4A Soneil for $99. I bought a 7A for $199. PreCovid prices.

Getting 5 years with my maintainers now, multi brands, I wonder would that Battery Maintainer 1500 do much for me in the real world and get me say 6 or 7 years average? on a motorcycle / car/ truck? I think 5 years is whats expected with my heat but I'm always open for "better"...


I may buy a Battery Minder 1500 just to try it.
A Batteryminder 1500 (1.5A) with alligator clamps costs $56 at Amazon (free shipping). A Batteryminder 1510 (1.5A) with alligator clamps and ring terminal connectors costs $70 (free shipping).

Batteryminder is smart with several charging stages, pulsing during float stage, temperature sensor adj voltage to be appropriate/ideal for the ambient temp, and it's water resistant. It also has several smart safety features. These are the reasons it's the best that I know of. I think NOCO is second best (that I know of).

The temp sensor feature of Batteryminder would be helpful in your hot garage. It would reduce voltage when hot, increase when cold.

Another thing that would help you is put the charger on the battery when the battery and your garage are at their coolest. For example... Don't put the charger on your motorcycle or car right after driving. i.e. - don't put on the charger when the battery is already warm or hot. Wait 2+ hours (when battery has cooled) before applying charger.
In summer, the morning is when your garage is coolest. So that's the best time to put the charger on battery (assuming the battery is also cool - not recently driven).

When you first put on a charger is when it goes into bulk charge stage and pushes the most amps and voltage into battery. That's when it puts the most heat into a battery. If battery is already warm or hot (from recently driving or from hot garage) then adding more heat to it is bad.

That's why I wait until battery and garage are cool (morning) and then apply the charger. The bulk (initial, aggressive) charging that adds creates heat will happen when the battery is cool. So no harm. The charger will have moved from bulk to absorption to float stage long before the heat of the day warms up the garage.

The float stage generates very little or no heat, especially if it's a pulsing float. Batteryminder has pulsing float. It also has a temp sensor to adj bulk, absorption, and float voltage to be appropriate for the ambient temp (i.e. - your garage temp). However, the charger's temp sensor won't know if the battery itself is hotter than ambient temp, which is why you'd still need to let battery cool after driving before applying charger.

I think you'd get more years from better charging practices. Batteryminder would also probably help because it'd adjust the voltage of all charging stages to be as suitable as possible for your garage temp.
 
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I have had good luck with one of those wire brush old school battery terminal cleaners to clean a new battery terminal before I put the new battery in and I always add those round felt pads under the connector ( both the battery brush thing and pads are found in the now locked battery case at Walmart ) and I use Deoxit and Deoxit gold in a small amount to cover the terminals and may reapply a dab of Deoxit gold on top of the terminal every year or so ( without disconnecting the battery ) do these simple steps I have not seen any battery corrosion on any car or motorcycle or even Golf Cart battery in MANY many ( like 20 ) years. I do use a small coating of vaseline on my Golf Cart batteries, all my battery connections look same as new new 5 years after install when time to replace the battery. I do live in a area with no road salt and warm winters.
I think flooded batteries are sealed better than they used to be. Or maybe it's because I no longer drive on highway much? My car mostly just short trips with 1 highway drive a month.

I haven't seen any sulfation on battery posts in 30 years. I don't use felt pads and my battery cable clamps and battery top posts are not sealed.

Having said that ^. I do clean cable clamps and posts before a new battery is installed. By "clean" I mean degrease surfaces, use a wire brush made for batteries, degrease again. Then bolt the cable clamps to posts. That's all I've been doing.

But at at time my battery is replaced, the old battery's posts still look clean. Certainly no sulfation.

However, in future I will add sealer after installing a new battery because why not?
 
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Similarly ACI, a local company I discovered last year, uses similar technology. My experience with their Supercharger was positive:

http://www.acichargers.com/curve.htm
That looks like a very good charger. It's charging stages are similar to Soneil, which is another brand I like. ACI & Soneil both pulse during the stage 1 bulk charge. I have found this very effective at charging and restoring sulfated old batteries to health, as well as charging and maintaining batteries to prevent sulfation.

I find these types of chargers/maintainers (4 to 5 stages with pulse during stage 1 bulk charge) to be the best chargers for deep cycle lead batteries (such as in mobility scooters, gold carts, boats, etc). I assume they're also good for lead starter batteries, but I've never used this type of charger on a starter battery. These are premium chargers IMO.

One downside of this type of charger (bulk pulse) is it doesn't pulse during last stage (float stage). They have a steady on float which IME will eventually heat-up and dry out the battery if you regularly leave the charger on battery more than 3 days.

The other downside of bulk pulse chargers is they cost more. Typically $99 and up.

Still, multi-stage chargers with pulsing bulk charge are the best for deep cycle lead batteries IMO.

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Batteryminder is a multi-stage charger that does it's pulsing in float stage (last stage). Pulsing float is less effective (than pulsing bulk) for reversing sulfation that already previously occurred. So less effective for salvaging a battery that's already sulfated.

Pulsing float chargers are also less effective for charging severely discharged batteries. So therefore less effective for deep cycle batteries.

One good thing about multi-stage chargers with pulsing float is they're good for charging and maintaining starter batteries. A multi-stage charger with pulsing float won't heat up and dry out the battery. So you can leave it connected to the battery continously until next time you drive vehicle. Set and forget.

Another good thing about multi-stage chargers with pulsing float is their modest price. $53 at Amazon with free shipping.

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I realize that chargers with fewer stages and no pulsing cost the least, but they don't work as well as pulsing chargers.
 
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