Does anyone know definitively whether or not GM adds any “stuff” in their factory dino fill for break in purposes like a dose of EOS for cam break in or something like that? I purchased a car in February that was built in October 2008 and due to the fact the vehicle has basically set around outside during some fairly cold and humid weather I am anxious to get the factory fill dumped but the car has at this time under 500 miles so I do not want to dump the fill too soon if it is doctored up at all.
To soon to dump factory fill?
- Thread starter lonestar
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In the company car (2008 4cyl G6) I ran the Oil Life Meter down to about 30% and changed it. If it was my personal car... I'd do it around 1k-3k. But the owners manual didn't state to do a early intial change, so being it's a business car... follow the business documents; owner's manual.
I'd go at least 1k. More like 1,500k and then change it.
I'd go at least 1k. More like 1,500k and then change it.
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I would not dump the factory too early as assembly anti-scuff ingredients are used to protect the high stressed engine components. I think too early is anything before 3,000 miles or the OLM 50% level is reached. The days are long passed where the 500 or 1000 mile early oil change is needed and can be harmfull today.
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Based on UOA's from my 2007 trailblazer, on my next engine I'll probably go intervals of 1500, 3000 (4500 mile total), 5000 (9500 mile total), then 7000 mile/OLM intervals after that. It has taken 30,000 miles for the wear metals to fall below the Blackstone Universal Averages. I feel like I made my first oil change too soon at 800 miles, and went too long on the second at 7500 miles. Waiting longer on the first change and splitting the second interval should work out just right.
On my 2008 Saturn Aura I dumped the factory fill at 1500, then did a 3k interval, and now on 5k intervals forever...I have a UOA posted from the first 5k interval that came out great, so I am happy.
I have been using conventional Valvoline that I got on sale, but might switch to Formula Shell since the price is so tempting, and it is a quality oil.
I have been using conventional Valvoline that I got on sale, but might switch to Formula Shell since the price is so tempting, and it is a quality oil.
I have often wondered this myself...
My stepdad got an brand new Liberty 3.7 and he went 3k on the FF and then I changed it for him to Mobil-1 and he went the full 6k...it was "too much of a hassel" for someone who knows nothing of cars to do anything "out of the ordinary" LOL...it makes me cringe but it is his car...at least he let me change it at 3k.
My mom's new Comapss has less than 1k on the ticker on the FF...I told her I would change it at 2500k...I plan to put in Pennzoil YB and let her go 5-6k, then change once more and send her away with PP for the full 6k term for life???
Does this sound good?
These newer cars with no break-in period are partly from being roller motors but SURELY part of the way they can get away with this is by using a special additive in the FF oils??? I have heard that Corvettes have the same Mobil-1 as off the shelf and that there is not mystery break-in additive poured in, but this can't be responsible can it? They have got to be using something
My stepdad got an brand new Liberty 3.7 and he went 3k on the FF and then I changed it for him to Mobil-1 and he went the full 6k...it was "too much of a hassel" for someone who knows nothing of cars to do anything "out of the ordinary" LOL...it makes me cringe but it is his car...at least he let me change it at 3k.
My mom's new Comapss has less than 1k on the ticker on the FF...I told her I would change it at 2500k...I plan to put in Pennzoil YB and let her go 5-6k, then change once more and send her away with PP for the full 6k term for life???
Does this sound good?
These newer cars with no break-in period are partly from being roller motors but SURELY part of the way they can get away with this is by using a special additive in the FF oils??? I have heard that Corvettes have the same Mobil-1 as off the shelf and that there is not mystery break-in additive poured in, but this can't be responsible can it? They have got to be using something
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My father bought a 2008 Trailblazer and has been doing the perpetual 3k OCI due to what he calls "warrenty reasons". He knows the oil life monitor doesn't get close to 20%, I think he said last time it was around 40% at 3000. For my mom's around town car that is pretty good.
Besides, he gets an Oil change at the dealer for $20. Which for parts and labor really isnt that bad.
Like all his cars I will get to check it out once the warrenty it up. I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
Besides, he gets an Oil change at the dealer for $20. Which for parts and labor really isnt that bad.
Like all his cars I will get to check it out once the warrenty it up. I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
On my 2008 Saturn Aura I dumped the factory fill at 1500, then did a 3k interval, and now on 5k intervals forever...
Hey, this is basically my philosophy too! I'll probably extend OCIs out to 7500 once warranty is up.
On my 2008 Saturn Aura I dumped the factory fill at 1500, then did a 3k interval, and now on 5k intervals forever...
Hey, this is basically my philosophy too! I'll probably extend OCIs out to 7500 once warranty is up.
How about Honda? I like the idea, just not having particles not trapped by the filter floating around for a few thousand miles on a brand-new engine.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
How about Honda? I like the idea, just not having particles not trapped by the filter floating around for a few thousand miles on a brand-new engine.
i like to know it too. we just got an acura and menu did say wait for OLM for 1st oil change. i think 5000km is longest i can wait!!
How about Honda? I like the idea, just not having particles not trapped by the filter floating around for a few thousand miles on a brand-new engine.
i like to know it too. we just got an acura and menu did say wait for OLM for 1st oil change. i think 5000km is longest i can wait!!
Originally Posted By: lonestar
Does anyone know definitively whether or not GM adds any “stuff” in their factory dino fill for break in purposes like a dose of EOS for cam break in or something like that? I purchased a car in February that was built in October 2008 and due to the fact the vehicle has basically set around outside during some fairly cold and humid weather I am anxious to get the factory fill dumped but the car has at this time under 500 miles so I do not want to dump the fill too soon if it is doctored up at all.
I always dropped the FF at about 500 miles, then ran the next fill of oil for 1500 miles, then at about 2000 miles switched to synthetic oil and followed the OM recommended oil change intervals. I did want any wear from break in floating around in the oil.
There are members on this board who have dropped the FF as soon as they took their car home from the dealership. In your case I'd dump the oil! As you can see opinions vary, this is mine.
Does anyone know definitively whether or not GM adds any “stuff” in their factory dino fill for break in purposes like a dose of EOS for cam break in or something like that? I purchased a car in February that was built in October 2008 and due to the fact the vehicle has basically set around outside during some fairly cold and humid weather I am anxious to get the factory fill dumped but the car has at this time under 500 miles so I do not want to dump the fill too soon if it is doctored up at all.
I always dropped the FF at about 500 miles, then ran the next fill of oil for 1500 miles, then at about 2000 miles switched to synthetic oil and followed the OM recommended oil change intervals. I did want any wear from break in floating around in the oil.
There are members on this board who have dropped the FF as soon as they took their car home from the dealership. In your case I'd dump the oil! As you can see opinions vary, this is mine.
Originally Posted By: lonestar
Does anyone know definitively whether or not GM adds any “stuff” in their factory dino fill for break in purposes like a dose of EOS for cam break in or something like that? I purchased a car in February that was built in October 2008 and due to the fact the vehicle has basically set around outside during some fairly cold and humid weather I am anxious to get the factory fill dumped but the car has at this time under 500 miles so I do not want to dump the fill too soon if it is doctored up at all.
I talked with an engineer at the GM Romulus engine plant. He said the oil put into the engines at assembly was the exact same as the over the counter oi. He said the engine was stated up, adjusted, and shipped with that oil.
I read an article that had a tour of the Corvette engine plant. It said the Mobil 1 oil uses as factory fill(including the dry sump engine) was the exact same over the counter Mobil 1. This illustrated article also said Mobil 1 was one of the assembly lubes in the super dry sump engine.
I always change the factory oil as soon as I get home from the dealer. I have one in the driveway with 301,641 miles and another with 208,000 miles. Many others with 144,000 to 190,000 before sale or trade.
Does anyone know definitively whether or not GM adds any “stuff” in their factory dino fill for break in purposes like a dose of EOS for cam break in or something like that? I purchased a car in February that was built in October 2008 and due to the fact the vehicle has basically set around outside during some fairly cold and humid weather I am anxious to get the factory fill dumped but the car has at this time under 500 miles so I do not want to dump the fill too soon if it is doctored up at all.
I talked with an engineer at the GM Romulus engine plant. He said the oil put into the engines at assembly was the exact same as the over the counter oi. He said the engine was stated up, adjusted, and shipped with that oil.
I read an article that had a tour of the Corvette engine plant. It said the Mobil 1 oil uses as factory fill(including the dry sump engine) was the exact same over the counter Mobil 1. This illustrated article also said Mobil 1 was one of the assembly lubes in the super dry sump engine.
I always change the factory oil as soon as I get home from the dealer. I have one in the driveway with 301,641 miles and another with 208,000 miles. Many others with 144,000 to 190,000 before sale or trade.
I dumped both my GM FFs at around 1000-1500, but I don't have a good reason why. I've never had any engine issues regardless of what I did with the inital OCI.
Originally Posted By: RGrant
I dumped both my GM FFs at around 1000-1500, but I don't have a good reason why. I've never had any engine issues regardless of what I did with the inital OCI.
On this board we have very little scientific evidence to prove what or why we do something, just what makes the most sense with the information we have. Dumping the FF at 1000-1500 makes sense to get the wear metals out to me.
I dumped both my GM FFs at around 1000-1500, but I don't have a good reason why. I've never had any engine issues regardless of what I did with the inital OCI.
On this board we have very little scientific evidence to prove what or why we do something, just what makes the most sense with the information we have. Dumping the FF at 1000-1500 makes sense to get the wear metals out to me.
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
What would arx do for a brand new rig?
I dumped the gear oil out of the rear end of my used truck at 14k miles and it was full of metal debris. It was actually cloudy because of the [censored] in it, kinda scary.
I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
What would arx do for a brand new rig?
I dumped the gear oil out of the rear end of my used truck at 14k miles and it was full of metal debris. It was actually cloudy because of the [censored] in it, kinda scary.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
What would arx do for a brand new rig?
I dumped the gear oil out of the rear end of my used truck at 14k miles and it was full of metal debris. It was actually cloudy because of the [censored] in it, kinda scary.
Dumped all my fluids at 1k, front&rear diff's,T-case and engine oil. Rear diff oil was NASTY! I plan on dropping rear diff oil every spring.
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I have been thinking about sneaking 3-4 oz of Auto RX in his engine and see if he sees an improvement.
What would arx do for a brand new rig?
I dumped the gear oil out of the rear end of my used truck at 14k miles and it was full of metal debris. It was actually cloudy because of the [censored] in it, kinda scary.
Dumped all my fluids at 1k, front&rear diff's,T-case and engine oil. Rear diff oil was NASTY! I plan on dropping rear diff oil every spring.
I dump FF at 1000 on everything
Exactly, engine is pretty much broken in and rings seated at the factory.
I err on the conservative side and put a 200 miles on and then dump. Who knows who has test driven the car and how long it has sat on the lot. I then dump it at 1000, 3000 and convert to synthetic. Also Chrysler just fills with bulk oil, no special breakin oil myth nor need to worry about leaving special break in oil in the car.
I err on the conservative side and put a 200 miles on and then dump. Who knows who has test driven the car and how long it has sat on the lot. I then dump it at 1000, 3000 and convert to synthetic. Also Chrysler just fills with bulk oil, no special breakin oil myth nor need to worry about leaving special break in oil in the car.
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