To RP or not to RP

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Hello everyone, I have been visiting this board now for some time. Just recently became a member, and must admit all this stuff on this site can get a little confusing. I am learning though and with all the oils out there, and with all the oils saying they are the best, as a consumer it just makes things that much more confusing.

See, I drive an Lancer Evo and my car came from the factory with M1 10/30. Ever since new I kept the M1 10/30EP in the crank and changed every 3K. I didn't buy the EP for the "extended drain interval" thing, I chose it because it seems to have a better PAO content than the regualar M1. SO it was worth the extra $$ to me.

So as I started to tinker on my car, with bolt ons, tuning and eventulaly a WMI kit, I needed an oil that can hold up to the Meth, so I found that RP XPR 10/40 seemed to fit the bill.

After using the MEth for a few months I decided to take the kit out and I kept the RP in. I also noticed that my valvetrain seemed to be noisy. Like a dang marble was loose in the valve cover or something.

As a suggestion from a freind, I went back to the M1 EP my last oil change. The Noise is gone, the car idels smoother and my MPG's went up on average 2-3MPG!!

I called my tuner and told him the news and he kinda scolded me for going back to the M1 10/30. Saying that it will not hold up and I argued that I will change it often and that the car seems to like it. He recommended using RP 20/50 of which I thought was absurd to use for a street car that is driven on the track once in a while and that is for Solo II events, of which I have not been able to do lately for $$ reasons.

So now I am more confues. My car seems to like the M1, but my tuner says not to use it. I would like to do a oil analysis soon, but want to when its completely one oil in the crank. I know some of the RP is sitll in there so may take a couple of oil changes to get it all out.

So what do I do?? I am kinda confused on this. I hate ordering oil and not having it on hand when I need it. I can't really afford right now to buy "cases" of oil to store, and it probably isn't a good idea to store the oil in the garage for lengths of time anyway. So I like soemthing I can just go to the sotre and buy. I am sure the oils on the shelf are good oils and should be more than suitable for my car.....Right???

So what do I do???
 
Use what you feel works best for your car. Don't listen to your tuner guy or anyone else. If M1 is best for you then by all means use it. It is still a great oil.
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Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I would not touch this with a 10' pole.


Now I am even more confused. Why not touch this with a 10' pole?? what do you know that I don't? Give an opinion, that is why I am here. To get advice. Don't hide behind your bias. What are your thoughts?
 
Why did your tuner say not to use it? He just said don't use M1 with no reasons or alternative suggestions? Does he sell oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I would not touch this with a 10' pole.


Now I am even more confused. Why not touch this with a 10' pole?? what do you know that I don't? Give an opinion, that is why I am here. To get advice. Don't hide behind your bias. What are your thoughts?


You keyed right on it - bias. My response had nothing to do with you. I get ripped to shreds and have posts removed if I defend RP in any way.

BITOG is a GREAT site, but there is (like it or not) a severe bias against RP here. You cannot get reasonable, fair opinions on RP here. It is hated with a passion.

(Please don't ban or remove me, I am just clarifying for the OP, thats all!)
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I would not touch this with a 10' pole.


Now I am even more confused. Why not touch this with a 10' pole?? what do you know that I don't? Give an opinion, that is why I am here. To get advice. Don't hide behind your bias. What are your thoughts?


I think he's implying that a lot of "bias" is exactly what you're likely to get... because for whatever reason M1 and Royal Purple both seem to stir up a lot of feelings, both good and bad.

I honestly can't tell you why you had a noise that went away with M1. Whatever "feelings" they inspire, M1 and RP aren't *that* different, especially in the short term. RP's XPR line will offer higher additive levels, and sometimes lots of anti-wear additives will actually *increase* friction (note that friction is NOT equal to wear in all cases), and maybe, just maybe that would cause some extra noise. However, I would want more data to rule out the oil filter, which I assumed you changed at the same time. Was the oil pressure equivalent on the two oils and filters? My hunch would be that the change in noise had nothing to do directly with the oil.

For what its worth, if you want a more performance-oriented oil in the M1 line, I would go with (in this order)

M1 0w40
M1 5w40 TDT
M1 15w50.

Frankly I think a 50-weight oil is ridiculous for any modern car almost regardless of state-of-tune, but truth be told M1 15w50, after some miles, seems to test more like a thick 40. Based on the way you describe your car, I think the 0w40 would be a good fit.
 
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Maybe the noise went away just because you changed the oil, and you would have had the same results with a fresh fill of the Royal Purple.

As for your mechanic's recommendations, what information did he provide to back them up?

I suspect you will be fine with either oil, but you were not wrong to go with Royal Purple. It's hard to go wrong with a 10w-40 synthetic race oil. If you want, switch back on the next OCI and see if the noise comes back.
 
I am not biased to any brand. I have used nearly all brands of oil since I started driving, haha. I used RP for over 2 yrs.

I feel the noise in my valvetrain was caused by the 40W oil. It was lifter "tick" is what I believed it to be. When I put the 30W oil back in it was gone. That could be the reason.

As for oil filtration? Currently I have a K&N filer on the car, and usually use the OEM Filter which is made by Denso. I just ran out of filters and bought the K&N. I doubt the filter had anything to do with it. I used the OEM filter with both oils in the past with no issues.
 
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I am not sure how to actually get an accurate oil pressure reading. I don't really want to be taking hoses off and experimenting. If I don't put something back just right I could lose a a very expsensive turbo. I would leave the PSI tests to the pros. But thats just me.
 
Originally Posted By: Autobahn88
Use what you feel works best for your car. Don't listen to your tuner guy or anyone else. If M1 is best for you then by all means use it. It is still a great oil.
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I agree. To confirm that M1 is good for your car and your driving habit, do an UOA with M1 with an OCI that you're confortable with.
 
Another excellent oil for your car would be GC. It can be found at AZ and Pep Boys, so it's easy to get. Many turbo owners use this oil with very good results. It's so popular that there is a complete thread just about GC on bitog.

As far as using RP, I personally would not continue to use an oil that made my engine noisy. It may not be harming it, but that just wouldn't be acceptable to me.
 
Try a fresh run of the RP and see if the noise appears again or just stay with the M1 that seems to be working.
 
My EVO VIII has had RP 10w30 since new and no issues. UOAs show conistantly lower than average wear. This does include some track time and Im not gentle with her when shes warm. It did do SLIGHTLY better in the FE than M1, but not enough to justify the expense.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Try a fresh run of the RP and see if the noise appears again or just stay with the M1 that seems to be working.


+1

RP 20W-50 may be given a shot. My buddy says it gets the smoothest-running engine on RP 20W-50.

Of course, RedLine still KILLS RP 20W-50, and its not Purple. Kills M1 too. But whatever.
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Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I am not sure how to actually get an accurate oil pressure reading. I don't really want to be taking hoses off and experimenting. If I don't put something back just right I could lose a a very expsensive turbo. I would leave the PSI tests to the pros. But thats just me.


Are you saying you've got a turbocharged car that only has an idiot light and no form of pressure gauge?!?!? Amazing how the manufacturers are cheaping out these days. And kinda unbelievable.

And even if it weren't a turbo, if you are autocrossing a car it should have an oil pressure gauge permanently installed. Every car really should have one truthfully, but if you drag race, autocross, tow, or do anything else even halfway demanding it should be mandatory.
 
Definitely go with the RP 20W50. That`s what I`ve been running and it runs smooth as silk in my car. Imo where RP shines is if you do alot of wot driving. I sent in a sample from my last oil change of RP 20W50 to Blackstone about 2 weeks ago. I hope they hurry up with my results. I`m dying to know! This is my first ever uoa. I have a feeling I wasted good oil though,because it had only about 3 months/3200 miles on it,BUT it was all short trips to and from work. I still have a glass jar of it and it`s still clear and purple when I hold it up to a light.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Definitely go with the RP 20W50. That`s what I`ve been running and it runs smooth as silk in my car. Imo where RP shines is if you do alot of wot driving. I sent in a sample from my last oil change of RP 20W50 to Blackstone about 2 weeks ago. I hope they hurry up with my results. I`m dying to know! This is my first ever uoa. I have a feeling I wasted good oil though,because it had only about 3 months/3200 miles on it,BUT it was all short trips to and from work. I still have a glass jar of it and it`s still clear and purple when I hold it up to a light.


Maybe its just me but I think 20W-50 is a bit heavy for our Z's. You must track it often or live in a very very hot climate to use that sort of weight.
 
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