Would a reasonable way to pick an engine oil be to list all the oils that meet the specs in the owner's manual, take into consideration driving conditions, weather and so on and then pick the cheapest oil on the list without regard to labels like "synthetic" or "synthetic blend" or "semi synthetic"? It's easier to understand the idea of a manufacturer's spec than to understand labels like "synthetic" or "synthetic blend". These labels are ambiguous at best. Tell me, what does synthetic or synthetic blend mean? Are these labels just a message to the consumer that they will be paying more for this particular product? How could I possibly know that this product is better than the spec on the bottle? And if I don't need this ambiguous "better" why pay for it?
To pick an oil
- Thread starter OneEyeJack
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The word used to mean something in regards to the base oil that was chemically synthesized rather than distilled and then separated. Many of the additives were synthetic chemicals, but that was used in nearly all motor oils.
These days with "conventional" oils containing a lot of Group II or maybe even Group III, what does it mean to be "synthetic"? I think they're implying a higher level of performance than a basic motor oil, although some may actually still be using what are truly synthesized base oils.
Now what would really be nice would be that the designation be scrapped and an actual set of standards be applied for what the improved performance level is.
These days with "conventional" oils containing a lot of Group II or maybe even Group III, what does it mean to be "synthetic"? I think they're implying a higher level of performance than a basic motor oil, although some may actually still be using what are truly synthesized base oils.
Now what would really be nice would be that the designation be scrapped and an actual set of standards be applied for what the improved performance level is.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
How could I possibly know that this product is better than the spec on the bottle?
Just take a look at the UOA section to see how an oil performs; it is the reason we post and share the reports.
When I shop for oils, I generally don't pay much attention to the marketing and completely ignore the buzz words - Titanium technology means very little to me. I do look at the VI, VOA, UOA, viscosity, specifications, and reputation, then base my decision on those.
How could I possibly know that this product is better than the spec on the bottle?
Just take a look at the UOA section to see how an oil performs; it is the reason we post and share the reports.
When I shop for oils, I generally don't pay much attention to the marketing and completely ignore the buzz words - Titanium technology means very little to me. I do look at the VI, VOA, UOA, viscosity, specifications, and reputation, then base my decision on those.
The owners manual usually has a viscosity chart that is temp. compensated.
Obviously get an oil that meet the vehicle requirements. If you keep your oil change intervals as recommended by the maint. schedule then any name brand should do you well.
I have never been a fan of synthetic blends. Its it a 50/50 mix or a 5/95 or a 95/5? Who really knows.
I use synthetic oil in most vehicles except my boat as it gets little use on the trailer.
Obviously get an oil that meet the vehicle requirements. If you keep your oil change intervals as recommended by the maint. schedule then any name brand should do you well.
I have never been a fan of synthetic blends. Its it a 50/50 mix or a 5/95 or a 95/5? Who really knows.
I use synthetic oil in most vehicles except my boat as it gets little use on the trailer.
Lucas 10130 Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, think this helps?
I remember when syn oil was better in some aspects but now oils of dino flavor has match much of syn oil and now syn is a flush for money. we need a clear guideline on the term synthetic and standards for improved. performance. then the cost difference. is worth it.
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Originally Posted By: JR
I remember when syn oil was better in some aspects but now oils of dino flavor has match much of syn oil and now syn is a flush for money. we need a clear guideline on the term synthetic and standards for improved. performance. then the cost difference. is worth it.
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When I first started changing my own oil (mid 90s), I remember when I could walk into Walmart or Target and what I'd see was maybe Mobil/Chevron conventional selling for maybe 90 cents a quart, the name brands like Pennzoil or Valvoline selling for maybe $1.20-1.50 a quart, and then perhaps just Mobil 1 at about $4 a quart.
These days the 5 quart jugs are more common, and WM has the major brand conventional oil at $14-17 and PP/M1/SynPower for maybe $23-25.
So you used to pay 3-4 times as much, but now it's less than twice as much. Part of it has to be that the basic motor oils are more expensive to produce.
I remember when syn oil was better in some aspects but now oils of dino flavor has match much of syn oil and now syn is a flush for money. we need a clear guideline on the term synthetic and standards for improved. performance. then the cost difference. is worth it.
ken
When I first started changing my own oil (mid 90s), I remember when I could walk into Walmart or Target and what I'd see was maybe Mobil/Chevron conventional selling for maybe 90 cents a quart, the name brands like Pennzoil or Valvoline selling for maybe $1.20-1.50 a quart, and then perhaps just Mobil 1 at about $4 a quart.
These days the 5 quart jugs are more common, and WM has the major brand conventional oil at $14-17 and PP/M1/SynPower for maybe $23-25.
So you used to pay 3-4 times as much, but now it's less than twice as much. Part of it has to be that the basic motor oils are more expensive to produce.
You also need to take into consideration your OCI, driving style, miles on vehicle, oil burning, past maintenance history, how many miles driven in certain period, where vehicle is used and kept, etc. Most often the synthetic oil is superior in start up conditions and can be kept in for longer intervals
The VII in conventional oils wear out after awhile (oil university estimates about 6 mo.). There are no VII's in synthetic to wear out. So, unless it gets contaminated, it can last a lot longer. And, yes, synthetic will allow you to start up easier in very cold weather.
Originally Posted By: StevieBoy
The VII in conventional oils wear out after awhile (oil university estimates about 6 mo.). There are no VII's in synthetic to wear out.
I would research this statement some more if I were you.
The VII in conventional oils wear out after awhile (oil university estimates about 6 mo.). There are no VII's in synthetic to wear out.
I would research this statement some more if I were you.
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
Lucas 10130 Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, think this helps?
But, according to the sticker on the bottle, IT WORKS!
Lucas 10130 Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, think this helps?
But, according to the sticker on the bottle, IT WORKS!
What manufacturer's spec does this Lucas additive meet and what requirement does it fulfill? If the answers are none and none then why would one pour that stuff in their engine? Is this like a charitable donation to the Lucas oil company? Is the best that Lucas can actually guarantee with their product liability insurance is that the product will not harm your engine instead of being able to say this product meets manufacturer's specification "XXX".
Originally Posted By: AP9
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
Lucas 10130 Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, think this helps?
But, according to the sticker on the bottle, IT WORKS!
Note that "IT WORKS!" is printed on the little label that says "WON'T VOID WARRANTIES" and is clearly an indication that the label works to relieve potential customers' worries about voiding their warranties.
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
Lucas 10130 Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, think this helps?
But, according to the sticker on the bottle, IT WORKS!
Note that "IT WORKS!" is printed on the little label that says "WON'T VOID WARRANTIES" and is clearly an indication that the label works to relieve potential customers' worries about voiding their warranties.
So, does anyone agree that you should follow published specifications, driving conditions and habits, oil change intervals and ignore labels like "full synthetic", "synthetic blend", etc and ignore additives that meet no one's specifications and make claims that can't be verified? In other words make you oil choice simple, logical and avoid hype.
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