Tips to Cross Country Older Truck with Tow

[garystaven88]

Looking for some advise and wisdom from those who have done this before. I want to drive an older truck with a small 5x8 enclosed trailer in tow with a motorcycle in it cross country from New England to wherever is warmer once every winter to break up the monotony of winter for me.

I do motorcycle trips on the motorcycle every summer on the bike (longest for me was Connecticut to Knoxville, TN and back to ride the Tail of the Dragon). Loved every mile.

The truck I am looking to get is a 94-01 Dodge Ram 1500 with either the 318 or 360. Right there I know there are already a few red flags.... older truck and a truck that is not known for the greatest reliability (46RE transmission) but I just love these trucks. I envision buying a clean one (preferably NOT in the rust belt), driving it locally for a year, doing the required maintenance and getting to know the truck and any quirks/reliability issues before diving into a cross country trip in it with trailer in tow.

I have a AAA gold membership. My fear is if something catastrophic were to occur (46RE takes a dump), not only do I have to worry about getting the truck back home but now I have to worry about getting the trailer with a motorcycle in it back home.

I know it aint good to ponder on the "what-ifs" but reality can strike quickly and hard.

Suggestions on doing this reliably? Should I scratch the idea of a 94-01 Ram 1500 for this purpose entirely and get myself a new truck with less gamble?

 

[eljefino]

Is the bike stout enough to tow its own empty trailer? Seen some harleys and goldwings with little matching trailers for example. If the truck breaks down, uncouple and ride!

This would also allow you to bike down to somewhere like NC and buy a rust free truck there, then tow your chase vehicle home.

You'd need a credit card to buy some cold weather biker gear in the off chance something happens, but it seems like you're looking for a little adventure.

 

[garystaven88]

I wish it were big enough to tow the trailer if need be but it's just a measly Harley Dyna Superglide

 

[cptbarkey]

I would be worried more about the trailer's health than the truck.
Bring a spare trailer tire, a jack, and tools to swap it.
I have owned several 318 2nd gen trucks and loved them.

 

[JHZR2]

Those trucks will run and run. I have diesel versions, but one is closing in on 450k, the other well into the 200s. All systems work on both. That includes AC.

Just find a well taken care of one, make sure the tires and spare are good, it’s up to date on fluids and belts, and have fun.

My lower mileage one I bought in SD and drove home. I buy cars from across the country many times…. Towing adds to the challenge a bit, but drive slower and within the limits of the truck… good luck!

 

[Chris142]

Buy a truck with a manual

 

[Kira]

Seeking a 24-31 year old truck is where your fun will begin.

 

[vwmaniaman]

I have towed motorcycle trailer from Kentucky to California with a 76 Dodge Maxi-van with a 318 and a 737 tranny and had 6 in the van and a camper set up in it. The 2 motors you are looking at are great. I have owned both. Hope you find what you are looking for without rust.

 

[D60]

I service a '98 1500 4x4 w 5.2 and NV3500.

I service about seven 2nd Gen Rams. They're crude and cantankerous but overall disturbingly reliable. The biggest SHOW STOPPER problem as they age is PCM issues, NO BUS messages etc.

The 46RE ain't bad really. Check fluid level in N!!

 

[D60]

Also I'd really recommend staying '98+. You can tell from the molded plastic side view mirrors.

The interiors were a bit nicer, and definitely I'd reco staying with OBD2 so at least '96+

Just plan now to get a Snappy brick or old Modis to read the ABS codes. 99% chance you'll need the ABS module rebuilt if you tire of seeing the constant BRAKE and ABS lights. You'll need a K13 or K13A personality key. You can also just ignore the lights if it doesn't bug you.....

In 2000 the half tons got some brake upgrades. Dual piston front calipers and the rear drum hardware changed significantly. Honestly IME even the earlier brakes are fine, and they're (the earlier) GMT400 pads and calipers so VERY common.

The Chrysler 9.25 is surprisingly durable, but with high miles they can have problems such as pinion bearings, just like any axle. Bonus points if you find one with factory 3.90 gearing (rather than 3.55). Expect every Dana 44 front to have trashed axle u-joints at the knuckles -- I don't know why except out-of-sight-out-of-mind

 

[garystaven88]

The biggest SHOW STOPPER problem as they age is PCM issues, NO BUS messages etc

Any tips to prevent this? Any spare modules to carry on a cross country trip?

 

[D60]

Any tips to prevent this? Any spare modules to carry on a cross country trip?

Honestly I don't have any great suggestions. Sometimes NO BUS situations just mean you don't have any gauges, which is usually the connection at back of instrument cluster. Other times other modules like ABS or airbag or PCM will pull down the whole system and you'll have a no start situation.

You could carry a spare PCM I suppose. Obviously I'd verify it runs the vehicle before considering it a viable spare.

NO BUS situations aren't that common, but they're all over the map when they occur. It could be a dozen things.

I would carry a quality crank sensor and cam sensor. The latter is in the distributor.

You can read up on plenum plate problems and the Hughes plate. Much is said about the plenums but I've never done a single one.

However you might be wise to just do water pump, timing cover gasket, timing chain and the plenum all before your trip. The timing cover gasket is easy and will leak coolant, and the timing set basically slides into place. I've been using a double roller setup, and it's inexpensive. The chains do stretch with higher mileage. If you want a chain tensioner supposedly the 3.9 tensioner bolts up, but I've never really seen a need.

 

[garystaven88]

Honestly I don't have any great suggestions. Sometimes NO BUS situations just mean you don't have any gauges, which is usually the connection at back of instrument cluster. Other times other modules like ABS or airbag or PCM will pull down the whole system and you'll have a no start situation.

You could carry a spare PCM I suppose. Obviously I'd verify it runs the vehicle before considering it a viable spare.

NO BUS situations aren't that common, but they're all over the map when they occur. It could be a dozen things.

I would carry a quality crank sensor and cam sensor. The latter is in the distributor.

This is where I feel there are two types of reliability: just work no matter the cost (inefficiency) and work really efficiently 98% of the time at the expensive of complexities that may eventually leave you stranded. That efficiency and reliability grows less and less as it gets older (say a 2nd gen Ram and the possibility of aging PCM issues). Going cross country I'd prefer work no matter what for the peace of mind I know I will make it there and back.

There are levels to it.... I myself think going cross country may actually be wiser in a *well-maintained* manual shift, carbureted vehicle with NO computer at all. The most sophisticated "computer" would be the ignition module which even then I'd say a straight up points setup just flat out works.... if it is *maintained*.

I'm not saying taking a Model T cross country is a better choice than taking a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 but I am starting to believe when it comes to old vehicles (and a gen 2 Ram is OLD).... it's actually a safer bet to go even older..... pre-fuel injection days for reliability.

Consider lets say a 1970s era Dodge pickup. No in-tank electric fuel pump to fail. No PCM to fail. Zero sensors. If the 70s era truck has no rust issues and has all new freshened up hoses, wiring, tires, bearings etc... and maybe a spare ballast resistor.... it may be a safer bet than say a gen 2 Ram for flat out dependability.

I'm starting to believe either go olddddd (carbureted era) or just go brand new here and skip the "middle ground" of 25 year old vehicles with failing or potential to fail electronics and modules.

I may need to rethink my vehicle choice here

 

[D60]

This is where I feel there are two types of reliability: just work no matter the cost (inefficiency) and work really efficiently 98% of the time at the expensive of complexities that may eventually leave you stranded. That efficiency grows less and less as it gets older (say a 2nd gen Ram and the possibility of aging PCM issues). Going cross country I'd prefer work no matter what for the peace of mind I know I will make it there and back.

There are levels to it.... I myself think going cross country may actually be wiser in a *well-maintained* manual shift, carbureted vehicle with NO computer at all. The most sophisticated "computer" would be the ignition module which even then I'd say a straight up points setup just flat out works.... if it is *maintained*.

I'm not saying taking a Model T cross country is a better choice than taking a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 but I am starting to believe when it comes to old vehicles (and a gen 2 Ram is OLD).... it's actually a safer bet to go even older..... pre-fuel injection days for reliability.

Consider lets say a 1970s era Dodge pickup. No in-tank electric fuel pump to fail. No PCM to fail. Zero sensors. If the 70s era truck has no rust issues and has all new freshened up hoses, wiring, tires, bearings etc... and maybe a spare ballast resistor.... it may be a safer bet than say a gen 2 Ram for flat out dependability.

I'm starting to believe either go olddddd (carbureted era) or just go brand new here and skip the "middle ground" of 25 year old vehicles with failing or potential to fail electronics and modules.

I may need to rethink my vehicle choice here

We all have acceptable levels of risk. Why a 2nd Gen Ram? How about a GMT800? Or an '11+ SuperDuty with the 6.2 is pretty much drive and forget it. I'd avoid Hemis and 3V Ford anything. A 2V Ford could be a good choice, but if shopping bubble bodies make sure the windshield never leaked on the GEM. Just about any Tundra could be a contender.

I also think DIS and serpentine belts considerably improved reliability.

Also I cut my teeth on OBS Fords -- I'd drive a clean one any distance, although they are OBD1 (except the last year or two)

Growing up in CO and traveling the state regularly to this day, carbs aren't for me. I'm at ~6700 and can be at ~4000 or 11k in under two hours. I may need to start the truck at 10F and the day may warm to 60F. If we're going camping I need it to run at ANY angle while still at considerable altitude

Either way post your adventures!!

 

[garystaven88]

We all have acceptable levels of risk. Why a 2nd Gen Ram? How about a GMT800? Or an '11+ SuperDuty with the 6.2 is pretty much drive and forget it. I'd avoid Hemis and 3V Ford anything. A 2V Ford could be a good choice, but if shopping bubble bodies make sure the windshield never leaked on the GEM.

The last truck I had was a 2001 Sierra 1500 4x4 GMT800 4.8 4L60E. I know this is a respected platform but mine was a lemon.... but to be fair it was an old rusty New England truck.

I owned a 2V Ford E350 van I used for motocross when I raced and I loved that van. Never let me down... first year I believe for the 5.4 in the van too... it was a 1997.

I just never owned a Chrysler product and always loved the 2nd gens.... just nostalgic to me I guess. I really do love the older D series 72-93 as well but those are getting scarce.

 

[CarlB]

We use a 2001 tow pig for many racing events. Some stuff I keep specifically in the pig:
-High torque impact for lugs
-Tire patching gear
-Bottle-jack+jack stand combo
-Gooloo jump pack
-Spare air spring fittings in case of leaks
-plenty of spare ratchet straps

Now in the trailer we have all the tools required for working on vehicles, so we're generally over-prepared for truck problems since we are setup to work on racecars.

 

[D60]

The last truck I had was a 2001 Sierra 1500 4x4 GMT800 4.8 4L60E. I know this is a respected platform but mine was a lemon.... but to be fair it was an old rusty New England truck.

I owned a 2V Ford E350 van I used for motocross when I raced and I loved that van. Never let me down... first year I believe for the 5.4 in the van too... it was a 1997.

I just never owned a Chrysler product and always loved the 2nd gens.... just nostalgic to me I guess. I really do love the older D series 72-93 as well but those are getting scarce.

Well if you can find a 2V Ford in good shape, maybe that's your answer. The E-series never got the 3V, all the way through discontinuation in....2015? 2016?

The F150 kept it thru '08 in 4.6 only. My '07 4.6 has 240k and counting. XL trim level means I get a real t-case lever, which I love.

 

[GR_CoB]

Are you buying a truck specifically for towing that motorcycle? Or for other reasons too? Because if it's just for the Harley, then it's a bit of an overkill, in many ways.

I have seen a Yaris Sedan go from Sacramento CA to Charlotte NC with 4 adults, full trunk, and a 4x8 enclosed U-Haul trailer in tow. No issues along the way or afterwards, and still 30MPG during the trip.
When I'm near the beach during a bike week - a crap load of tow vehicles are sedans and hatchbacks, often with 1-3 heavy bikes on the trailer.
Over the years Prius has been proven to tow without issues up to 2500-3000lbs or so, while hitting the 40MPG mark still.

Maybe get a reliable sedan, or hatchback, or wagon, or crossover, and enjoy the reasonable towing abilities with good fuel efficiency, and increased reliability over the Dodge trucks you're considering for such an easy task. Just my two cents...

 

[garystaven88]

Are you buying a truck specifically for towing that motorcycle? Or for other reasons too? Because if it's just for the Harley, then it's a bit of an overkill, in many ways.

I have seen a Yaris Sedan go from Sacramento CA to Charlotte NC with 4 adults, full trunk, and a 4x8 enclosed U-Haul trailer in tow. No issues along the way or afterwards, and still 30MPG during the trip.
When I'm near the beach during a bike week - a crap load of tow vehicles are sedans and hatchbacks, often with 1-3 heavy bikes on the trailer.
Over the years Prius has been proven to tow without issues up to 2500-3000lbs or so, while hitting the 40MPG mark still.

Maybe get a reliable sedan, or hatchback, or wagon, or crossover, and enjoy the reasonable towing abilities with good fuel efficiency, and increased reliability over the Dodge trucks you're considering for such an easy task. Just my two cents..

I currently drive a 2015 Impreza automatic (CVT). It is rated for no towing at all and quite frankly I would never want to tow anything more than a bicycle rack with this car as it is painfully slow. I'm sure it could tow something like the attached photo (motorcycle only tow setup, very basic). However, if I go cross country in the winter time with this I want it enclosed. A Uhaul 5x8 enclosed is 900 lbs empty. Harley is about a 650 lbs pig. No way would I trust the car (more so the CVT) to handle all that... no way.

A fullsize 1/2 ton is overkill for this purpose but I have been wanting a classic truck for a multipurpose vehicle of sorts. Can attend some cars/coffees shows etc with it (maybe not a 2nd gen Ram although techanically they are now considered classics). I may get into camping with the wife at some point (small camper trailer).

The only vehicle right now that really makes the most sense would be a new Ford Maverick. Good MPG, great tow rating for its size (4000 lbs for the Ecoboost model), and just around $30k. My logically sense tells me I should trade in the Impreza for a new Maverick and be done with it... reliable new vehicle that I can tow and commute in with decent MPG. My child sense tells me I want a vintage truck.

 

[JHZR2]

Also I'd really recommend staying '98+. You can tell from the molded plastic side view mirrors.

The interiors were a bit nicer, and definitely I'd reco staying with OBD2 so at least '96+

Just plan now to get a Snappy brick or old Modis to read the ABS codes. 99% chance you'll need the ABS module rebuilt if you tire of seeing the constant BRAKE and ABS lights. You'll need a K13 or K13A personality key. You can also just ignore the lights if it doesn't bug you.....

In 2000 the half tons got some brake upgrades. Dual piston front calipers and the rear drum hardware changed significantly. Honestly IME even the earlier brakes are fine, and they're (the earlier) GMT400 pads and calipers so VERY common.

The Chrysler 9.25 is surprisingly durable, but with high miles they can have problems such as pinion bearings, just like any axle. Bonus points if you find one with factory 3.90 gearing (rather than 3.55). Expect every Dana 44 front to have trashed axle u-joints at the knuckles -- I don't know why except out-of-sight-out-of-mind

Id argue 96-98 personally.

But the brake upgrade is interesting. For the HD trucks, upgrading the rear wheel cylinders to the larger diameter from the Chevy dualies of the same era is popular. Not sure what else they did, and. If it’s transferable to the bigger trucks too?