Tips for starting out with Brand New Vehicle.

[SavageWS6]

I know my way a bit around cars/trucks and motorcycles. Now I'll be buying a brand new truck 2013 with only test miles. I was curious what I should do for the break in period, and reduce the amount of gum/carbon build up over time. Thinking using MMO and whatever the manual says for oil... Maybe use Shell Rotella T6 or Penn Plat.

2013 F-150 XLT 4x4 not sure on V8 or Eco boost
Cargo, most a motorcycle or normal projects around the house. Once in a while if I need to is tow a car or pull it out of a ditch (From PA with winter)
Mix of 50/50 city highway

I'd like to start off well and treat this brand new vehicle well.

I'm open to suggestions but I don't wanna start this vs that arguing discussion. Mention a product what I should use for brand new motor and I'll keep conducting research. Thanks guys

 

[dparm]

Most modern engines come broken-in from the factory. I would just drive it normally.

Stick with the manufacturer's recommendation for oil changes since it's under warranty, and avoid any additives like MMO (not necessary). From what we've seen, those EcoBoost motors are not picky about how you treat them.

 

[RF Overlord]

I don't think you should use ANYTHING in a brand new car that isn't specifically recommended or authorized by the manufacturer. If you use good oil and filters from the get-go, you shouldn't ever HAVE any gum/carbon build-up.

I do recommend you change the transmission fluid and filter (if any) at around 15,000 miles. Most wear particles in an AT are generated in the first 10-15,000 from new. After that, it's very little for the rest of its life. A simple drain & fill every 30,000 should suffice.

*EDIT* Assuming you're getting an automatic transmission. If not, then nevermind...

 

[eljefino]

Go with the factory oil until 5k or when it's normally due. Take care of the paint, radiator, interior, and transmission.

 

[SavageWS6]

Alright well I'll stick to that plan. I know where to search for oil and good oil filters so I won't ask that. Wasn't sure if the engines were broken in already. And yes I'll only use good oil/filters and change it at correct times.

And yes the XLT will be a automatic. changing AT fluid the same like changing oil from a motor?

 

[SrDriver]

The owners manual will cover recommended break in procedures.

 

[JHZR2]

"Test miles"? The major break in has already been done. Just go use it. Change the oil if you like.

 

[Realtech214]

Beat the [censored] out of it

 

[bdcardinal]

I am going through the same thing with my new Mustang.

If you get the 5.0 on your F150 it has a 7.7qt capacity and uses 5W20. If you get the EcoBoost it has a 6qt capacity and uses 5W30. Both engines take the FL-500S filter. Both engines, at least the 5.0 I am sure, have a 10,000mile OCI.

I am planning on dumping the trans and diff fluid early to get any metal out, I want this thing to last forever.

 

[SavageWS6]

@JHZR2 I mean like the test drive miles from people trying it out

@Realtech214 Well I'll do that lol

@bdcardinal I'm stuck between the 5.0 and the Ecoboost, I guess whatever better deal I can get from the guy I know at the dealership. I also want it to run forever

 

[Kuato]

5.0 over ecoboost. After speaking with ownets for both, the eco does have more power when towing, but does not get the mpg you would expect. Plus with the programming issues on the eco (supposedly fixed by now) the 5.0 is more worry free.

I had a 5.0 as a rental vehicle, it had plentiful power and on a long highway run in VA, returned 22+ mpg at 65, and almost 20 mpg at 80 mph.

Plus the V8 sounds better.

Agree that most modern engines don't need special break in, but driving the engine hard for the first 500 miles won't hurt.

Change both trans and engine oils early the first couple of times for break in and assembly materials, and you should be good.

There are several great UOAs on here with MC oil and filter. I am an Amsoil fan so would suggest that for you also.

 

[SavageWS6]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
5.0 over ecoboost. After speaking with ownets for both, the eco does have more power when towing, but does not get the mpg you would expect. Plus with the programming issues on the eco (supposedly fixed by now) the 5.0 is more worry free.

I had a 5.0 as a rental vehicle, it had plentiful power and on a long highway run in VA, returned 22+ mpg at 65, and almost 20 mpg at 80 mph.

Plus the V8 sounds better.

Agree that most modern engines don't need special break in, but driving the engine hard for the first 500 miles won't hurt.

Change both trans and engine oils early the first couple of times for break in and assembly materials, and you should be good.

There are several great UOAs on here with MC oil and filter. I am an Amsoil fan so would suggest that for you also.



Ya that's what I've been noticing about the Ecoboost that they're getting the same or worse gas mileage than the 5.0L. So I'll just stick to that, plus I can do a full exhaust and Boss 302 intake and make it even better.

I just got in contact with a Amsoil dealer locally and since I'm Military he can hook me up where ever I go, so I may hit him up sometime for when I am doing a motor oil change.

 

[Artem]

How many test drive miles are on there?

I'd redline the engine in the first few gears while getting onto the highway a few miles to create a lot of pressure and burn off all the various stuff inside the combustion chamber, CAT, exhaust, etc. You'd be surprised by how much smoke will come outta the exhaust tip when you first redline a new engine.

Other then that, I'd recommend a shorter first oil change internal. Those who recommend against this... My new Honda Lawn Mower recommends the initial oil to be dumped after 5 hours of use and then proceed with regular OCIs of every 6 months or so.

In both my New Civic's, I changed the factory fill after 1,000 miles and there was lots of metal shavings in the oil catch pan... I'm glad I got those out.

 

[SavageWS6]

Originally Posted By: Artem
How many test drive miles are on there?

I'd redline the engine in the first few gears while getting onto the highway a few miles to create a lot of pressure and burn off all the various stuff inside the combustion chamber, CAT, exhaust, etc. You'd be surprised by how much smoke will come outta the exhaust tip when you first redline a new engine.

Other then that, I'd recommend a shorter first oil change internal. Those who recommend against this... My new Honda Lawn Mower recommends the initial oil to be dumped after 5 hours of use and then proceed with regular OCIs of every 6 months or so.

In both my New Civic's, I changed the factory fill after 1,000 miles and there was lots of metal shavings in the oil catch pan... I'm glad I got those out.


Hmm, the one I drove had 8 miles on it. The other one had 28 miles. Ya I'll defiantly try that out, People say I may waste money, but I'd rather be on the safe side and get everything out that could be bad

 

[Californiabob]

I'm old school. baby the car for the first 500/1000 miles - up and down the speed/rpm range and no more than 60MPH.

have had several cars go over 100K miles and no oil burning.
Current Infinity is now 198K miles and no oil burning.

just my 2 cents.

 

[901Memphis]

Drive it hard, seat the Rings. Dump FF early and follow up with two more short intervals before going to normal interval.

Filter mags are a good investment.

Magnefine on the transmission for sure.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Californiabob
I'm old school. baby the car for the first 500/1000 miles - up and down the speed/rpm range and no more than 60MPH.

have had several cars go over 100K miles and no oil burning.
Current Infinity is now 198K miles and no oil burning.

just my 2 cents.


You either get a good engine or a bad engine.

On the Civic Forum I used to frequent when I had my Si, the engine is notorious for easily burning 1 quart or more in 3,000 miles. Many members would post that they broke the car in gently as the manual suggested, why is the engine burning oil? Others would say they broke the car in hard, now they have oil consumption. Others would post that either the soft break-in was a bad idea, or the hard break-in was a bad idea.

My engine burned a quart every 3k miles and I broke it in HARD. It also make the most HP on the dyno out of 7 other Civic Si's with similar mods. My UOA's were flawless. You be the judge...

 

[jimbrewer]

Don't obsess about oil. Take care of the cosmetics. That's the most cost-effective thing you can do. Carefully wash the car with a strong car wash. microfiber mitt, two buckets, one with soap one with clean water, grit guard. Ford says not to use Dawn or other dish detergents. Dry with a waffle weave towel. Claybar the truck. That's really easy with a new truck. Slap on a coat of durable, cost effective wax/sealer. Collinite, Klasse sealant, Duragloss come to mind. About $20 or less for the stuff.

After that, you get a bunch of cheap microfiber towels at Sams Club or Costco. After that, move to the rinseless washes. Mix up three gallons of the stuff in one of your buckets, (They say two gallons, but you'll need three for your truck). Toss in about 12-15 or your MF towels put the lid on the bucket and leave it in your garage. Some evening when truck is a little dusty, open up the bucket, wring out one towel, put it in your pocket and a dry towel in the other pocket. Toss a fully saturated towel on top of your truck and take a couple of swipes til its even just a little dirty and toss it in an empty bucket. Follow with the wrong out towel then the dry towel. Plan on using all your saturated towels. When you are done, squirt a little spray wax on the truck. Done in less than an hour, at night.


Ford Motorcraft oil and filters are well-regarded around here. Do you have oil changes included as part of the deal? Then use them, according to warranty. Draining an 8 quart sump for the V-8 Ford in less than 7K ought to be a crime.

Check the oil level every month, starting now. Seriously. Obsessively changing the oil with whatever fancy-dan oil you name will do you no good, if you let it get a couple of quarts low, even once. Its easy to get complacent over the years, or to figure your car doesn't use oil---until it does.

Finally, consider dialing up the on-line Ford ESP extended warranty guys and get yourself an el cheapo 7yr 100K extended factory "basic" warranty with maybe a $100 deductible. I went with FloodFord. Runs roughly $800 bucks. Face it: a $500 minor repair out of warranty in the first seven years is practically a given. So the "insurance" part of it is really only $300. Fords have very basic maintenance needs for the first 100K miles, so its not like you have to have a bunch of weird stuff done at the dealer to keep your warranty as you would with the Honda extended warranty. If you decide to sell after 6 years with some factory warranty left, you have a very big selling point.

 

[MetalSlug]

is peoples now aday driving 2013-2014 car/truck.. do you see yourself driving same one for next 10 years like old day ? properly not. After a years own a 2013, I want a 2014 model lol.

ask yourself that question, you see yourself driving it for next 5-10 years. and go from there. all maintaince.. warranty.. let the dealer worried about it. Just drive and enjoy your new vehicle until warranty rant out

then time to trade in for another

 

[SuzukiGoat]

I always break in my motors with minimal load for the first hour or so, a few short bursts of throttle up to the redline after that.

I for one am completely against leaving the factory fill until 5k.

When I build bike motors the original oil gets tossed after no more than 5 hours...20$ matters little to me when concerning a 2k engine build...much less an actual new vehicle.