Tips for changing valve seals needed

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FCD

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Oct 22, 2015
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Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain
I am going to change the valve seals on my Capri since they have never been changed, and the seals on these engines are known for their lousy quality and they become brittle over time and creep up the valve.
Anyway i have never gone futher than to adjust the valve lash, any tips you could give me?? What other tools will i need other than the valve spring compressor?, also how do i keep the valves from dropping into the cylinders accidentally? i am going to do this witht he heads on the car obviously
This is just a simple OHV V6 ( no rocker pedestals )
 
Just make sure that the piston for each valve you're doing is at Top dead center. I also used a telescoping pen magnet for the valvekeepers, and a dab of assembly grease/lube to hold them in place. I just used a pair of pliers to pull the old seals off, and a deep well socket of appropriate size to push the new ones on.
Oh yeah, lots of patience!!! Good luck!
 
I already thought of having the piston at TDC , But the thing with this engine is that they have a Heron cylinder head design , the cylinder head is flat with nocombustion chamber, and the piston has a big bowl, is this a problem?
 
The old trick is to fill the combustion chamber with rope, fed in through the spark plug hole.
The other way is an adapter that you use an air compressor and pressurize the combustion chamber with air. With the rope trick you want the piston slightly below TDC when feeding in the rope, then rotate to TDC.
 
I had good luck with my compressor and an adapter to fill the cylinder with air and float the valve. Rope works well too.
 
The Heron head will be good to do the seals with, they aren't going to drop into the cyl, although I'd still use air pressure to hold them up. They should be umbrella seals, and will most likely be hard and brittle, but easy to get off.
 
The rope trick works like a charm on that engine, you need to rotate the engine backwards slightly to release pressure on the rope so its not good on OHC engines that use belts.
A jumped belt is possible, air is best on these.
 
Yes i'm almost sure it is, i've asked other owners and they have had similar issues tat went away after they changed the valve seals.
And no i'm not gonna run a 60 Grade, i will stick to 20w50
 
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