Time to do the car trailer deck

ls1mike

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Just getting started. It was due. Had the wood delivered from a local place. 18 6in x 2in x 14ft pressure treated boards delivered was 300 bucks. I didn't think that was too bad. Boards are actually 5.5in x 1.5in x 14ft, but most of you already knew that smile I still have to get screws. Hope to have it done this weekend. [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]
 
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In stead of wood we should have recycled plastic wood which doesn't get slippery when petroleum products drip on them. It should come in a broad range of colors and last forever. Good luck measuring and cutting.
 
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Boy a quick sandblast and paint and it would really be looking good. It will look great with a new deck.
 

CT8

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Originally Posted by dave123
Boy a quick sandblast and paint and it would really be looking good. It will look great with a new deck.
That is a great idea!
 

ls1mike

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Originally Posted by dave123
Boy a quick sandblast and paint and it would really be looking good. It will look great with a new deck.
I will pressure wash it and rattle can anything that needs it, but I don't want to spend a on ton it.
 

ls1mike

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Originally Posted by Kira
In stead of wood we should have recycled plastic wood which doesn't get slippery when petroleum products drip on them. It should come in a broad range of colors and last forever. Good luck measuring and cutting.
The main deck takes the 14 foot boards just right, the rear portion I have to cut. There are two boards that will have to be ripped to like 3 inches.
 
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When I clean up something like that I knock the rust off it with a 4.5" grinder and wire wheel.to get the rust off . No need for rattle can paint on those frames. I just use a brush in those flat easily accessed areas. Prime 1 coat and two quick top coats. It'll be thicker and hold up better than that thin rattle can enamel. Down in there is where the water ends up so square it away while you can get at it. Do it right while it's apart and you'll never need to touch it again.
 
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I quit using speed screws on trailer decks a long time ago. That's a production speed thing. No need for a DIY r4epair. I just grind/cut the old ones off flush with the frame. Then slip the plank in and drill 1/4" down through the wood and frame flange. Carriage bolt and nylock on the bottom. Two for the front and rear frames if they are not tuck-in style. Alternate sides of the planks for bolts for the intermediate frames. For HD tilt beads that will carry track equipment, I switch up to 3/8 bolts, same schedule. But I counter bore the top of the plank so the head is recessed so a tracks can't catch a bolt head and pull it out. Slop Cuprinol in the head pocket to stop debris rot from starting and bolt them down. I switched to 2x12's a long time ago where the wheel or track loads are, skinnier planks only in the middle. The 2x12's bridge the frames better under load w/o splitting or breaking. That's why the alternate side bolt pattern to stop the expansion and shrinkage stresses from splitting the planks summer and winter. In your case, you have tuck-in plank butts on the back end that float, so they should resist splitting well there smile
 
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Delivery was a nice option on the new boards. When I re-planked my trailer years ago, I stripped the old junk off, prepped the trailer, and then used it to pick up the new PT from the lumber yard.
 
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[quote=Zaedock]Those were "Pressure Treated" if female driven.... hide[/quote 🍿🍿🍿. You definitely gonna get a beatin for that one Here's one special no no for anyone redoing an ALUMINUM. Framed trailer. You can't use Pressure treated lumber and have it touching the frame sections. The newer post 1988 ( green...¾) pt wood causes corrosion on aluminum. boxing
 
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Originally Posted by Miller88
I have kero/oil soaked 2x12s ready to go for mine. I hope that holds up as well as I've been told
You cannot get any liquid treatment very far into the wood without pressure. Or heat the treatment with the wood submerged in the treatment. Impractical for anything large.
 

ls1mike

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Well almost done. I need to put some screws in the rear section but that is easy. I put it back the way it was. I figured it lasted 17 years that way. My neighbor is a welder and took the back transition pieced off so we could use full 14 foot boards. He added a few supports and fixed one piece that holds the ramps. We slid the transition pieced back about 1/2 an inch, it also made it easy to install everything. [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image]
 

ls1mike

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Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Awesome work Mike thumbsup
Thanks Stude, My neighbor is weld engineer and has been welding for 20 years. I got the trailer from him when he needed a new, bigger one. I paid 1200 for it and now 350 for the deck. So I am in 1550 and 2 case of beer for it. He said I didn't have to do the beer, but you know I wanted to. So anyone close by who needs something moved. (Poulsbo wa) I am dying to get out of the house!!!
 
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Originally Posted by ls1mike
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Awesome work Mike thumbsup
Thanks Stude, My neighbor is weld engineer and has been welding for 20 years.
It looks like a nice trailer, but, generally, welders aren't engineers and Engineers don't weld. I am an AWS CWI and I work with both types of men. https://www.aws.org/certification/page/certified-welding-inspector-2 Engineers write project specification requirements calling for different codes depending upon the type of work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_welding_codes If your neighbor can't readily name the codes he regularly works with then he is simply a welder. That by no stretch of the imagination means he is unskilled, (There is a user on BITOG known as "tig1" that is quite skilled), but I've seen the term "engineer" heavily abused on job sites. Many times it is a corporate job title, not an educational credential.
 

ls1mike

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Originally Posted by Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Awesome work Mike thumbsup
Thanks Stude, My neighbor is weld engineer and has been welding for 20 years.
It looks like a nice trailer, but, generally, welders aren't engineers and Engineers don't weld. I am an AWS CWI and I work with both types of men. https://www.aws.org/certification/page/certified-welding-inspector-2 Engineers write project specification requirements calling for different codes depending upon the type of work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_welding_codes If your neighbor can't readily name the codes he regularly works with then he is simply a welder. That by no stretch of the imagination means he is unskilled, (There is a user on BITOG known as "tig1" that is quite skilled), but I've seen the term "engineer" heavily abused on job sites. Many times it is a corporate job title, not an educational credential.
Well my neighbor was an HT in the Navy, went through weld trade school while in the Navy, got out used his GI bill to go to school WSU for a 4 year degree. He is currently the Weld engineer on a Submarine base, approves all welds on submarines, where I also work...so there is that. So I guess you should have asked first. Condescending much?
 
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Codes? No, not meant to be condescending at all, but I've been around educationally credentialed Engineers who find it both amusing and irritating that some guys call themselves "Engineers" and may not be able to properly spell the word. And just FYI, Engineers may APPROVE weld procedures/WPS/PQRs & test results, but it is generally men with MY credentials who "approve" (inspect) the welds themselves. If you wish to jump to conclusions, I'd rather not play. My original post stated GENERALLY....
 
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