Time for brake fluid change and/or bleed ?

[youdontwannaknow]

On the accord, the front pads and rotors seem to be ok - I think the pads have atleast 50% life left in them. But I have been experiencing softness and a very slight rumble/pulsation in the pedal when braking at higher speeds. And it just feels like it needs more pedal these days to get the same amount of braking.

I believe the last time the fluid was changed was about 30k miles or 2+ years ago. Nothing has been done on the fluid since then. The brakes were replaced about 20k miles ago and I am told the brake fluid was not replaced or not even bled. (Shouldn't bleeding be a part of any brake replacement job ??)

Do you think it could be just the brake fluid ? or need to bleed the brake lines ? or both ?
I do see slight discoloration(blackish) of the fluid in the brake booster reservoir.

 

[mechtech2]

Rotors of drums are a bit warped, or hot spotted.
This pushes the pads a bit back further as you drive, so more initial pedal is needed.
A fluid change is always a good idea at those miles, however.

 

[Donald]

Rotors are not of uniform thickness. Time for new pads and rotors. It will not get better.

 

[Tosh]

Owner's manual probably says to change fluid every 3 years. However, this isn't your problem: Honda rotors just warp.

 

[artificialist]

That, and many cheap replacement rotors warp too.

I once did a brake job to the back of a Crown Vic, and I was stuck using the cheapest Rotors available. They looked like sand castles. Even though I hand torqued all the lugnuts to 100 ft/lb, the rotors warped after 2 weeks of driving. I had to thoroughly machine those pieces of junk to stop the pedal pulsation.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Tosh
Owner's manual probably says to change fluid every 3 years. However, this isn't your problem: Honda rotors just warp.


So true. My TL will get a bad pulsation once the brakes get hot which isn't often for me. The one time I had an emergency and had to drive across town going WOT, ABS, WOT, etc, the brakes were so warped it was blurring my vision when I applied them. To my dismay, when they cooled they were fine again.

 

[youdontwannaknow]

update -

I couldn't get the bleed screws to open so the bleed is on hold until further notice, BUT, I sucked out all(almost) the old fluid from the reservoir and filled it up with fresh fluid.

The old fluid was dark and turbid. I am glad I did this atleast, on both the cars. And the pedal feel changed right away. It was not night and day, but still a very significant difference. The brakes have more bite and very little to no reverse pressure feedback in the pedal, as compared to before. Can't wait to get the bleed done.

 

[wander2039]

On our Escape before I did a full bleed it had a slight shimmy. On the rear calipers quite a bit of junk came out leading me to believe that the front brakes were doing more work than they were supposed to. Shimmy went away shortly after. As far getting the bleeders loose PB Blaster and use a socket. Once you get in broke loose you use a wrench. On a Festiva yesterday had no problems doing this and I would bet this was the first flush it's had.

 

[The Critic]

The ones on my saturn wouldn't open either, so I used a six-point socket and a long 3/8" drive ratchet to break them loose. Yes, it's risky and you only have one shot, but it might just work.

 

[mechtech2]

Bleeders are always problematic. Soak them with your favorite sauce. Get INSIDE, also [under the rubber cap]. Let it soak and give them taps with a screwdriver handle. When they break free, go BOTH ways, tighten and loosen them - a bit more each time. Don't just start forcing it all the way out right away.
And until then, keep a good flush/fill in the reservoir. It surely helps for all sorts of things.
And fill it with fresh right before you bleed it.

 

[labman]

Skip the screwdriver handle and go to a hammer. Remember, it is easier to loosen up the bleed screw before you break it off. If you have to, pull the caliper, gut it, and torch the bleed screw. again, you may as well do it before you break it off. Once you do get it loose, take it out, wire brush it and the hole, and give it a good coat of Sil-Glyde.