Three spark plug questions

[paulri]

I am going to be changing the spark plugs on my Civic this month, but I have a couple of questions first.

(1) Is there something else that really needs to be done with the plugs? One of the reasons why I want to give it a shot with the Civic (and not the Sienna) is that I don't have to remove anything to get at the wires & plugs. So my question is, is my just changing the plugs, kind of like changing the filter without changing the oil?

(2) I hear a lot about NGK iridium plugs. I get the iridium part (longer life), but I'm seeing other companies list iridium plugs. Is there any reason why I should buy from NGK in particular? NAPA has some Bosch plugs.

(3) I am seeing a lot of information about gaps. As long as the plug is identified as the one for my engine, do I need to worry about this when buying new ones?

 

[Oily_Thing]

1. no
2. yes
3. yes

 

[Leo99]

1. No. Just change the plugs. Inspect the coils but they should be fine.

2. NGK and Denso are highly regarded. That's all I'd use. Buy them from Amazon if you can't source them locally for a good price.

3. I don't worry about the gaps on iridium plugs. I inspect them visually to be sure one didn't get bend in shipping but they are always on spot.

4. You didn't mention it but some modern plugs come with anti-seize already on the threads. Check this and have anit-seize on hand if you will need it. You don't want the threads to seize in your engine.

 

[djb]

Originally Posted by Leo99


4. You didn't mention it but some modern plugs come with anti-seize already on the threads. Check this and have anit-seize on hand if you will need it. You don't want the threads to seize in your engine.


Most plugs have specific plating to avoid seizing rather than using anti-seize compound.

 

[JC1]

I always use anti seize on the threads. Cheap insurance IMO.

NGK plugs are pretty good. I would stick with those. I've used Bosch before +2 and +4 on my Civic. No issues with the Bosch plugs, but no performance improvement for me.

 

[Chris142]

You should put dialectic grease on the boots.

 

[danez_yoda]

about this much antisieze. All you are trying to prevent is exhaust gasses from migrating up the threads and depositing a film that will crud up the threads. The AS grease in there will slow that down substantially.

 

[c502cid]

If they are original spark plug wires, I'd replace them. You can't find an easier vehicle than your civic to replace wires on. And yes, dialectic grease on the boots too!

 

[Bud]

All great answers. Only thing extra for me is I check the gap just to make sure.

 

[Kira]

Read the box your NGK or DENSOS come in.
Many say DO NOT add anti-seize. I did my neighbor's Civic plugs and the box said NO ANTI-SEIZE.
I am a proponent of anti-seizing plugs but I do know that things change.

COLD ENGINE when changing plugs.

The last few times I've changed plugs in various cars all were late and there was never any appreciable improvement in performance.
Remember, today's plugs are read by the car's computer stuff so while old plugs can be made to spark, you don't want a car metering and adjusting while on a mathematical or matrix extreme.

 

[KalapanaBlack]

If it has one, I would do a PCV valve w/ the plugs. Doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the plugs, but nobody ever does PCV valves anymore and the plug interval wouldn't be a bad PCV interval, as well.

 

[JeffKeryk]

NGK or Denso; use OE plug. I believe it is listed on the underhood sticker.
With 200K miles, swap out the wires. Use Honda (pricey) or NGK wires.
I use a tiny bit of anti-sieze, dielectric grease on the boots and torque the plugs to like 12 pound feet.
I also spray a little WD-40 in the plug hole to clean the threads.
I reduce the torque setting a bit because the anti-sieze and WD-40 acts as a lubricant.
Thread 'em in by hand; if there is any obstruction find and fix. Should thread in easily.
Then torque.
Anyways, that's what I do.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by danez_yoda
about this much antisieze. All you are trying to prevent is exhaust gasses from migrating up the threads and depositing a film that will crud up the threads. The AS grease in there will slow that down substantially.

IMHO that is way too much anti-seize.

Most of it will end up forced backwards towards the coil pack. Some will end up forwards, where the aluminum metal powder will play havoc with the oxygen sensors and the Cat.

In addition, Honda's have aluminum heads, and that appears to be aluminum anti-seize. A dissimilar metal to both sides should be used in all cases. For uncoated steel plugs in Honda's Aluminum heads I would use Bronze anti-seize, in a vanishingly small quantity.

 

[paulri]

OK, since I'll be using the NGK iridium/platinum plugs, and Honda's aluminum engine, I should use an anti-seize that is not aluminum? I will keep that in mind.

Originally Posted by HangFire

In addition, Honda's have aluminum heads, and that appears to be aluminum anti-seize. A dissimilar metal to both sides should be used in all cases. For uncoated steel plugs in Honda's Aluminum heads I would use Bronze anti-seize, in a vanishingly small quantity.

 

[The Critic]

1) You "should" measure the resistance of the wires, but this is rarely done.

2) NGK #4043 (V-Power) was the original design spark plug. It is a standard (not long-life) spark plug. For ignition systems it is best to stay with the original design spark plug.

3) I rarely check the gaps - I buy plugs that are pre-gapped to OE spec. Just take all 4 plugs out of the package and line them up together. If the gaps look the same, you are probably good to go...

These will be easy compared to your Sienna.

 

[paulri]

That is what I was hoping NOT to read. In exchange for swapping them out every 30K, what benefits would I get for my ignition system, by using the OEM design (and not the iridium)?

Originally Posted by The Critic

2) NGK #4043 (V-Power) was the original design spark plug. It is a standard (not long-life) spark plug. For ignition systems it is best to stay with the original design spark plug.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Quote
IMHO that is way too much anti-seize.

Most of it will end up forced backwards towards the coil pack. Some will end up forwards, where the aluminum metal powder will play havoc with the oxygen sensors and the Cat.

In addition, Honda's have aluminum heads, and that appears to be aluminum anti-seize. A dissimilar metal to both sides should be used in all cases. For uncoated steel plugs in Honda's Aluminum heads I would use Bronze anti-seize, in a vanishingly small quantity.


Sorry, can't agree with any this. There is plenty of room in the thread profile to hold the anti-seize. I've used aluminum anti-seize for years in aluminum heads without problems. Everyone is entitled to an opinion.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted by paulri
That is what I was hoping NOT to read. In exchange for swapping them out every 30K, what benefits would I get for my ignition system, by using the OEM design (and not the iridium)?

Originally Posted by The Critic

2) NGK #4043 (V-Power) was the original design spark plug. It is a standard (not long-life) spark plug. For ignition systems it is best to stay with the original design spark plug.


In theory, nothing. But from a troubleshooting standpoint, using the original design spark plug will eliminate a potential variable. Using spark plugs which are different than the original design can sometimes cause un-explainable issues.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted by HangFire
In addition, Honda's have aluminum heads, and that appears to be aluminum anti-seize. A dissimilar metal to both sides should be used in all cases. For uncoated steel plugs in Honda's Aluminum heads I would use Bronze anti-seize, in a vanishingly small quantity.

I don't follow your logic. Why should a dissimilar metal be used?

 

[benjy]

iridium + platinum plugs are there for longevity as emissions warranty is long in newer vehicles. cheap $2 standard plugs conduct better but are best changed @ 10 thou. your choice but on easy DIY changes i use NGK V-Power standard plugs, thats just how i roll!!