Those dam rotor screws

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mez

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So I had today off and decide I'll start early and do my front brakes. They really started to make some noise. I already had the front rotors and pads.

Jacked the car up, remove the wheel and unscrewed the caliper but I could not get those dam rotor screws out with a screw driver. I intentionally left them loose with some grease last time i did my brakes. I gave up reinstalled everything and went inside called a auto place to do it ( would be $104 bucks with me providing the parts ) next Saturday. I watched videos on removing it. I realize i had a cheap Harbor Freight impact tool that stop working last time i did my brakes. I dug it out and a little pounding and rotating the impact driver with a 3 lb hammer was able to remove those 4 screws. Took me longer to remove the screws than change the rotors/pads. I intentionally left the screws off. Anybody see issues with leaving the rotor screws off?
 
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No, I believe its for assembly purposes at the factory only... your lugs bolts will hold the rotor quite securely....40k-60k pounds of clamping.
 
I always install the screws with copper paste. Barely snug. It's a pain lining wheels up with the rotors spinning independently of the hub.
 
I usually leave them off. If I need to use the hole 90° away to force off the disc (or drum) I'll get a bolt that fits in there. I can put more torque on a bolt head than Phillips head.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
No, I believe its for assembly purposes at the factory only... your lugs bolts will hold the rotor quite securely....40k-60k pounds of clamping.


I agree.
 
I had some Waterproof green Wheel Bearing Grease I used. I guess it did standup over time!
 
You guys and your anti-seize. What ever is in the gun. IIrc, the 528e had short 8mm with a 5mm Allen head. Coupla whacks wit a ball peen hammer, the first time. After a wire wheeling and a loose fit they were a non issue. Smear some grease on the hub and lugs too.
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I've never had a car with them, but if I did, I could have the same brakes for 20 years and they'd come off like butter, no rust here
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Helped my cousin with brakes on his 2005 Buick Lacrosse , a few years ago . LF had one of those little screws . Sprayed it with lube & used a 1/2" ratchet & a star / socket ( another trip to harbor freight ) . A real pain in the rear .

When we went back , we applied more lube and installed the screw loosely . Pain in the rear . Solution in search of a problem ! :-(
 
Yep, couple of my cars have them, couple don't in various combinations. If the new rotors come with them I'll put them in with some anti seize. Sometimes they come back out, sometimes they get drilled. No rust here either but sometimes the stupid things stick.

They do make the brake job a little easier, but even without them its not a deal breaker.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I always install the screws with copper paste. Barely snug. It's a pain lining wheels up with the rotors spinning independently of the hub.


+1 On cars with wheel bolts they are helpful as are hanging studs.
 
I have a decent impact driver and never had a problem.
One or 2 socks with the ball peen and they move...

Of course there ain't much rust going on in sunny Silicon Valley.
I reinstall them with a little anti-sieze, caliper grease or whatever. Just snug.
I never put a fastener in dry, and if it does not install easily I throw it away.
 
a few wacks with a hammer then put the vice grips on the good screwdriver for torque.. or get the impact driver out.. if you have a nice big Phillips bit for it.

I like to leave the screws in so they dont rust up and I can use them with allen bolts to jack the rotor off if they get stuck on.

I've had them so stuck they just laugh at my 4# sledge..

Enter 2 allen bolts.. and just jack the rotor off with them.
 
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