Thoroughly Detailed the Car

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I am an amateur in this department, but have a couple of questions regarding the Claying process. I clayed the car and noticed a couple specs that did not come out, but came out with my finger nail. Should I use a more heavy duty clay bar for those areas?

I clayed the best I could with a standard Maguire's clay bar and then sprayed and wiped down with a wax removal (had Nufinish on there from about a year ago). Put one coat of Chemical Guys White Light and followed with a second coat of Chemical Guys Reactive Fusion Activate Shine & Seal...so will see how well it holds up.

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No I am not, but they do look dark in that picture. Have not done tires yet...next project. Hope everyone is well.
 
Originally Posted by mbacfp
I clayed the car and noticed a couple specs that did not come out, but came out with my finger nail. Should I use a more heavy duty clay bar for those areas?


Just keep using the finger nail on the spots that won't come out. If you go up a notch in clay to medium grade you risk micro-scratching the entire paint job. Then you will need to polish the entire car most likely. Just go easy on her.
 
Usually claying step needs to be followed up by polishing as clay creates micramarring on the the paint work. It may not be as noticeable on the white paint work but likely can be seen under direct sunlight.

Also, not bashing on CG products, but there are much better options out there for same or lower price. CG waxes/sealants last 1-2 months tops in my experience. You can also use some Iron removal products (Ironx by CarPro) which will ensure the paint work is free not only from bonded contaminants that you remove with clay but also free from iron (rail dust etc).
 
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by mbacfp
I clayed the car and noticed a couple specs that did not come out, but came out with my finger nail. Should I use a more heavy duty clay bar for those areas?


Just keep using the finger nail on the spots that won't come out. If you go up a notch in clay to medium grade you risk micro-scratching the entire paint job. Then you will need to polish the entire car most likely. Just go easy on her.


Thanks...weird the clay didnt get some spots out. Paint isn't perfect but not terrible. I am fairly new with paint preparation type stuff. There are a few spots that look like it's under clear cost...so I plan to just live with it. Really have to look hard to see them. Thanks for the advice.
 
Detailing is a dark hole of a hobby. It sucks you in until you go crazy looking at every single little detail. That being said, looks like you did a great job!

I used to really enjoy detailing, but over the last 2-3 years that enthusiasm has truly fallen. I'm teetering on the idea of simply paying for a Winter prep and Spring prep detail and calling it a day with regards to thorough details. Bucket washes and a quick coat of wax is about all I have patience for anymore.
 
Originally Posted by parshisa
Usually claying step needs to be followed up by polishing as clay creates micramarring on the the paint work. It may not be as noticeable on the white paint work but likely can be seen under direct sunlight.

Also, not bashing on CG products, but there are much better options out there for same or lower price. CG waxes/sealants last 1-2 months tops in my experience. You can also use some Iron removal products (Ironx by CarPro) which will ensure the paint work is free not only from bonded contaminants that you remove with clay but also free from iron (rail dust etc).


I have a detail garage near me so I figured I would give it a shot. White light is a polish so I did that after clay and did the other after that. I am interested in 9H ceramic but a little scared to do it myself. Will see how it holds up. Thanks.
 
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It also stays garaged... so hoping to get a year out of this detail. We shall see. Appreciate all the kind words...my first real attempt so I know it isn't perfect...but that is ok with me.

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White Light (same as black light) is a glaze and contains no abrasives. So all it really does is filling in swirls/scratches in your clear coat, but not permanently remove it. It's not durable and will wash off with 2-3 washes max.

Ceramic coatings are nothing to be scared off but require very thorough prep work - compounding (if needed) and polishing the paint work. I've installed CQ UK (by CarPro) a little over a year ago and it still goes strong. The downside of the coatings - you have to be very accurate with your washing routine - big no no for auto car washes as it will scratch it in a matter of seconds. Coating is sort of a commitment. Hope this helps
 
Originally Posted by parshisa
White Light (same as black light) is a glaze and contains no abrasives. So all it really does is filling in swirls/scratches in your clear coat, but not permanently remove it. It's not durable and will wash off with 2-3 washes max.

Ceramic coatings are nothing to be scared off but require very thorough prep work - compounding (if needed) and polishing the paint work. I've installed CQ UK (by CarPro) a little over a year ago and it still goes strong. The downside of the coatings - you have to be very accurate with your washing routine - big no no for auto car washes as it will scratch it in a matter of seconds. Coating is sort of a commitment. Hope this helps


Thanks for the info on White Light...will keep an eye on it after a few washes (with PH balanced soaps of course). Yes, from prep to finish there is quite a bit to it. Appreciate your insights Parshisa...thank you.
 
Originally Posted by RamFan
Detailing is a dark hole of a hobby.

It sucks you in until you go crazy looking at every single little detail...


haha....too true.
 
Very nice ride! Great job on the detail. Once you get sick of the Mother's clay, try out the Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponges. They make a Fine Grade, and Medium Grade. I have them both. Once you use them, you will never go back to clay. One negative would be: they are not supposed to be used to remove tar.
 
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