This fixed my rough idle (will it fix my oil consumption?)

[MrBaumTastic]

I think one of these Hyun/Kia cars can do better on the oil burning if treated well throughout it's life. I had a 2012 Sonata with the 2.4 Theta II DI engine that I got with like 30K and had a steady diet of 5w and 10w30 Havoline ProDS synthetic along with old school Fram Ultra filters. In a 5K OCI the oil would go down about halfway between the low mark and full mark and never had to add any, ever! One time I went 7K not meaning to, hey I was busy, I still didn't have to add any oil.

It's possible if I kept it longer that it would have eventually started burning enough oil that I would have to put some in between changes. But I sold it to my BIL to sell at his used car lot during Covid, he gave me more money for the car than it was worth to me with 95K on a known questionable engine and some front end damage from hitting a deer. It was also a manual, which I loved but my wife hated, which helped with the decision to get rid of it.

I didn't know the YF sonatas had an option for manual. I wish either of our were manual, because it's fun to drive. Cars don't need a lot of HP to be fun to drive in standard, but I can't think of many cars offered these days manual at all, let alone budget friendly. I think the Sentra is the only one that comes to mind but most other manuals I know of are high performance, suped-up sports cars.

 

[Bladecutter]

I'm going to do a piston soak, aiming for at least 8-12 hrs.
I only had time for it to soak a grand total of 2hrs and I'm quite certain that it didn't do much.

If you know it takes 8 hours to get the results that you need, what happened that caused you to try to do it when you only had a 2 hour window?

But I encountered two issues.
That was the engine not cranking when started with the plugs out.
Obviously I did something wrong but I'm not sure what and it doesn't seem anyone has been able to tell me.

As soon as you can tell us what all you did, we can tell you what you did wrong.
I'm guessing that there was way too much fluid still in the cylinder bores, and you didn't look down them before trying to go further in the process.

Every video I've seen and every forum I've ever read through about the process, it seems fool-proof, turn key, blow solvent out of the cylinders through the spark plug holes (cover with a towel).

The other issue was many people dont mention re-lubricating the cylinder walls with oil to build compression.
My wife and I nearly cried when I tried starting and, well it didn't.
It took 3 minutes of cranking on and off to get it to start, and another minute or two of it starting and stalling before it operated like normal.
So if I don't get at least an 8 hour window to let the Berryman B12 soak, I may just not do it at all.

Again, you need to actually tell us what you did, and we can recommend something different.
I would recommend using a brake bleeder kit that uses a hand operated vacuum pump to suck all the fluid out of the cylinder bores before adding oil to lubricate the piston rings and cylinder bores, then turning the engine over - by hand - to allow the oil to br spread around the bores and rings, and then, sucked out any excess using the brake bleeder tool again.

Then you reinstall the spark plugs, coils, and try to fire up the car again.
I bet it fires up much easier if you do it this way next time.

I plan to stick with the VRP for at least four complete oil changes before trying HPL (which I want to do anyway). I'm going to switch from the Kia OEM filter next change to a Fram Endurance if I can get one from Walmart, or the Fram Titanium if not. It only recently occurred to me if these oils clean as well as they do, then superior filtration efficiency should be a concern. Either one I put on, I plan to leave them on for 10k miles each, so two oil changes 5k miles apart. I'm not worried about a filter clogging because I know the VRP cleans gently and gradually enough where that shouldn't be a problem over a reasonable OCI.

You are changing way too many variables way too frequently.
Just pick an inexpensive oil filter that filters well, and stick with it while you are running the Valvoline R&P.
Once you feel like you have reached the end of your V R&P usage, then switch to whatever filters you want to use, and lengthen those oil filter change intervals then.

But I do want to make sure that what ever particles are floating around, both from the cleaning of carbon deposits and by products of normal operation (soot?), are caught and not allowed into places where they can cause excessive wear (bearings and cylinder walls).

And I guess just continue to monitor consumption and keep this updated. Oh I also tried Gumout's intake cleaner (ordered from Amazon, haven't seen it anywhere else) on Tuesday and re-treated with Redline SI-1. To keep a long post from getting longer, I'll just say I think I like the Gumout better. Application process is faster and car didn't sputter on the test drive. My main critique would be the can's spray nozzle and trigger assembly seem really cheap, it broke on me at the bitter end. There wasn't much product left before squeezing the trigger resulted in a soft hiss versus a spray of foam. Other than that, if you've ever used CRC (or wanted to try it) give it a go.

If you want to keep working on your motor, I'm going to recommend that you pick up a borescope, a brake bleeder kit, and a compression test kit, all of which can be purchased reasonably inexpensively, and at a variety of different sources. These items will serve you well with doing piston bore work in the future, and save you from having the problems you described again.

 

[MrBaumTastic]

If you know it takes 8 hours to get the results that you need, what happened that caused you to try to do it when you only had a 2 hour window?



As soon as you can tell us what all you did, we can tell you what you did wrong.
I'm guessing that there was way too much fluid still in the cylinder bores, and you didn't look down them before trying to go further in the process.

Last minute errands. And at the time, I was sure something was better than nothing.

As for the cranking thing, the plugs were taken out, fluid was poured in, 2 oz of B12 each, on a warm engine (you could hear the solvent sizzle. I loosely installed the plugs and then let it soak for two hours. Near the end of that soak, I removed the plugs and looked into the cylinders, couldn't see much but I didn't see any fluid. With the plugs still out, I put the key and cranked. And heard nothing but a buzzing sound. Didn't try it again, muttered somethings under my breath, and continued with the procedure.

 

[Mainia]

I agree with Bladecutter, you have done a marathon cleaning. Do you one more long piston soak as you are very anal so it will bug you if you don't. THEN stop with the soak and fuel stuff and let the Valvoline R&P do it's job for the next what ? 3 R&P oil changes.

 

[MrBaumTastic]

I agree with Bladecutter, you have done a marathon cleaning. Do you one more long piston soak as you are very anal so it will bug you if you don't. THEN stop with the soak and fuel stuff and let the Valvoline R&P do it's job for the next what ? 3 R&P oil changes.

You're totally right. And when you're right you're right. Blade too.