Thinking of a new trans, called some ppl (Long)

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I'm not against trying a thicker fluid if I can actually check line pressure but If I was going to do that I would use Redline high temp atf dex/merc which is a 10 cSt @100ºC fluid.



What's that? $150 worth of fluid vs a $12 bottle of Lucas?
 
Well I only paid $35 for two gallons of Maxlife, which in why I'm starting there. I'd like to see if there's any positive results from this pan drop before I make my next decision.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Well I only paid $35 for two gallons of Maxlife, which in why I'm starting there. I'd like to see if there's any positive results from this pan drop before I make my next decision.


Sounds good. We're curious now and hoping it works for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Call Dave at Triple Edge, he is the best in the business with these bar none. When they do a transmission every known issue and some that aren't is addressed.
Figure $500 for the install, you provide the fluid.

http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/


Thanks for reminding me I've gotten a lot of information from their site in the past but more recently I dismissed them based on shorter warranty length.
 
wholesale for that trans for a full rebuild w/6 month warranty is 950.00 just asked my brother which used to own a trans shop sold to his friend.
$1800.00 for retail with 1 year
 
Well the new filter and transmission pan are on. The job didn't go awesome as it was cold and windy. I had two giant sheets of cardboard and a large sterlite container but still managed to make a decent mess.

The wind also blew away the new filter seal, which I searched for with no luck.

I had to re use the oem filter seal which I slightly mangled trying to remove.

Either way the car drives and isn't leaking as of now, I re used the oem pan gasket which was in pretty good shape, the filter that came off was marked filtran which I'm assuming is the oem filter.

In went the 7 quarts of Maxlife for now. I wasn't able to replicate the hard shifts or any slips on the short drive I took, but I cleared the code after I finished the job so it might not have had time to trip the max adapt code yet, fingers crossed it doesn't ever come back, but I'll probably know tomorrow.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Well the hard shifts came back within 15 miles of driving.


I'd give it a little more time to do its thing. Then we can think about additives.
 
Also I did save some room in this fill I only put 7 quarts in its about at the minimum so if I do decide to put some additives in there I have space.

I think I am deciding that I don't wish to replace the transmission. I will probably just drive it until the transmission takes a final poop.
 
I applaud you for being a fluid purist. I agree that is the best philosophy. Normally, I would be very anti-additive. Even good additives, IMO are a waste if the trans and fluid and spec'd properly. But, IMO when we are looking at pushing off an inevitable rebuild, it has its place.

The van in my sig is weird. 1->2 will hiccup and hit hard into gear, like 2nd is delayed and the engine freewheels then bangs into gear under light accel. It's fine if you're getting into it. But 4->3 is awful. It slams so hard that the lights flash and needles bounce to 0 on the dash and I seriously worry about the motor mounts. I added lubeguard, which made all the shifts softer but didn't touch the 4-3 slam. I added 1/2 bottle of lucas, a little at a time, and 4-3 improved greatly. It also firmed up some of the other shifts back closer to normal.If you drove it today, you wouldn't know it was there. The van is our third car, but it's been a year and a half since then and the behavior has been consistent enough that I see it making it a couple of years at this rate before I need to do anything else to it. It will get a rebuilt trans, or just sold. Either way, it was not driveable before, and it is now. Lubegaurd is cherry-red, looks like ATF, pours like molasses.

Good luck
 
Actually I tried two bottles of lubegard red in my previous suck and fill. It was my first shot at hoping it would free a sticky valve or something causing the issue, but it didn't help.

Interesting enough I don't remember the lubegard red being thick, it actually seemed very similar to atf viscosity. You must be talking about the Lucas, because the data sheet indicates it's thicker than any ATF on the market.
 
It appears that you have a lot worn clutch material in your fluid.

About all Lucas will do is thicken up the fluid with its added VII. But consider this, if you have a worn fluid pump and it is leaking, I doubt the Lucas will even help the pressure problem. It may be worth a try, but will only prolong the inevitable for a short time.


Sorry to hear about the AT internal problems, but a rebuild may be the only course of action.
 
Originally Posted By: meep
^^^ yes I meant lucas was thick like molasses ^^^



I am also considering trading the Buick in at a used car lot and putting a couple thousand cash down in addition to the trade in on a newer car, but it would have to be pretty cheap probably less than $8000-9000 or so for me to be able to work the payments into my budget.
 
In my opinion, if you're short on money, the last thing you should do is go into debt over another car. I can all but guarantee you that the money you'd have in total payments will far exceed money you'd have in potential repairs of the existing car. It'll be harder to get ahead if you're always playing the payment game.

Owning outright, two vehicles puts you in a good spot. I know you said the Taurus is down, but repairing that gives you flexibility if the Buick breaks down.
 
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