Thinking of a new trans, called some ppl (Long)

[901Memphis]

Reviving this thread since I might have the money to do this soon.

Heavily leaning towards the local rebuild from pro transmission with 3 year 36k mile warranty for $2300.

Can anyone see a better choice here?

My shifts are starting to slip a little until the max adapt mode kicks in then it bangs.

 

[The_Eric]

As long as they do all the necessary upgrades and repairs, then go for it.

I'm still a big Jasper fan boy though.

 

[kschachn]

Do you know, can you buy a Jasper transmission outright? I was looking on their site (for my Sienna) and it seemed like it was install-only.

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
As long as they do all the necessary upgrades and repairs, then go for it.

I'm still a big Jasper fan boy though.

 

[901Memphis]

How does Jasper compare to the $2300 price tag of my local shop? I looked at their website but don't see prices.

I don't need to keep this car forever, if it's made it this long on stock parts the way I drive it, making it through the 3 years 36k mile warranty will be a good return on my investment.

Hopefully I am financially better off in 3 years to the point where I can get a new car and that would reduce the buick to my around town car. Although rust is consuming the rocker panels at an alarming rate.

 

[asand1]

901Mmephis, When was the last time you changed the filter?

I changed the the filter on Dads 4R70W with bad flare on the 2>3 shift, straight slipping really. The OE filter had never been changed and was killing line pressure. I cleaned the pan, changed the filter and changed out ALL the fluid through the cooler line and all is better.

This tranny was deemed DOA and quoted $3,500 for replacement by a local shop.

As a last resort, expirement really, you could change the filter and try UTF, Its like Type F on steroids I hear. 0 FMs mean no slipping and firm shifts.

 

[901Memphis]

The 4T65E has a long documented history of issues and certainly will need a rebuild based on mileage/clutch material in fluid and max adapt codes which at minimum is a new pressure control solenoid. The clutches need replaced for sure.

I haven't changed the filter since i have had it i have been doing suck and fills through the dipstick tube about 4 quarts at a time. I have a new filter and transmission pan i could throw on there if i had the time, but i don't think it will make a difference.

I have been through about 20 fresh quarts of fluid in a couple years, most of it was 12 quarts all in 1 day, by doing 4 quarts old out, 4 quarts new in and driving a few miles then repeating.

The fresh fluid has nothing to do with the worn clutches and max adapt mode.

I do worry if i do nothing, the transmission will be the next failure point.

 

[asand1]

if you had valve train noise, would you keep changing your motor oil but leave the filter?

the clutches may very well be dying because your line pressure is low because of a plugged filter.

you've got nothing to lose and everything to gain.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: asand1
the clutches may very well be dying because your line pressure is low because of a plugged filter.


Exactly what I was thinking. The OP wants to replace a perfectly fixable transmission.

 

[901Memphis]

It's not perfectly fixable lol, it's a 4t65e with a max adapt code, it need a new pressure control solenoid and new clutches for starters, all which can only be done during a full rebuild.

If it could be fixed by replacing that filter that would be grand wouldn't it?

http://etereman.com/blog/general-motors-...and-their-cures

http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E-Common-Problems.html

Unfortunately i have done too much research on the 4t65e to know mine is in need of a rebuild. The transmission/body have probably 200k on them even though the engine has lower mileage as indicated in my sig.

I had originally bought the filter/pan to do this job but now i want to save the filter for later after the rebuild.

The problem i have is that i am only going to be financially able to get a rebuild with my tax return and if i were to just replace the filter and have the trans take a dump in the middle of the year i have no way to work. My Taurus is currently out of commission until it gets exploded brake line repair done.

Believe me i could find many better ways to spend $2300, but i don't see a filter being a miracle cure in my situation.

 

[asand1]

OR, the trans is seeing low line pressure and setting a max adapt code, making you think you need a pressure control solenoid and clutches, because of a plugged filter.

But if the internet has convinced you that spending $2,300 to save $14 is a good idea, then by all means.

I'm just basing my hypothesis on common sense and experience.

 

[901Memphis]

That might be common on other transmissions but from what I've seen a low line pressure in my transmission almost always results in a no forward gear sitsituation at least some of the time. Otherwise I'd have to agree with you.

 

[901Memphis]

Also it's not just the Internet I believe in thinking I need a rebuild, every mechanic I talked to wants to rebuild it also just based on the symptoms and codes alone which is what prompted me to do my own research. I have just been trying to find the best deal on a rebuild or reman.

 

[asand1]

Of course course every mechanic wants to rebuild or sell you a trans for $2300.00.

Just call it a freaking experiment and change the filter. If you've already decided to pay out of your nose for someone else to work on your car, why be on this forum and why ask advise??

My FIL and I were told the same thing by a mechanic before I fixed the trans with a simple f&f change.

Your logic is flawed, but I will bow out now as my breath is being wasted.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: asand1
Of course course every mechanic wants to rebuild or sell you a trans for $2300.00.

Just call it a freaking experiment and change the filter. If you've already decided to pay out of your nose for someone else to work on your car, why be on this forum and why ask advise??

My FIL and I were told the same thing by a mechanic before I fixed the trans with a simple f&f change.

Your logic is flawed, but I will bow out now as my breath is being wasted.


I agree! Mechanics don't fix transmissions, they only "rebuild" them. It's because there is more money in rebuilding them and people are too stupid to know otherwise.

Yes, when my 1995 Escort had around 165-180K miles in it, I finally got around to changing the fluid and filter, and slightly upped the line pressure. I am still driving that car with it's original automatic transmission at 226K miles.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: asand1
Of course course every mechanic wants to rebuild or sell you a trans for $2300.00.

Just call it a freaking experiment and change the filter. If you've already decided to pay out of your nose for someone else to work on your car, why be on this forum and why ask advise??

My FIL and I were told the same thing by a mechanic before I fixed the trans with a simple f&f change.

Your logic is flawed, but I will bow out now as my breath is being wasted.


You did see the part where I've already done drain and fills right? It's had over 20 quarts of fresh fluid and code reset still comes back and still does similar stuff.

It usually shifts great when cold, then might slip very lightly when hot and after enough driving it bangs up shifts and downshifts.

I haven't made up my mind yet, I am still debating all options, but I currently live in an apartment where I'm not allowed to work on my cars and off approximately 1 day per week. I can find time to post on the forums, even while at work but finding a place to get work done can be hard to arrange.

I wanted to save the filter for after the break in on the rebuild. But like I said to haven't made up my mind yet just leaning heavily on my possible choice.

I'm actually still looking for other places who do rebuilds too. I just don't trust these big name stores for some reason.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Do you know, can you buy a Jasper transmission outright? I was looking on their site (for my Sienna) and it seemed like it was install-only.


You have to have an account with Jasper to purchase from them (ie a shop), but you can purchase through their shop network. For example you could buy a transmission or engine through me if you so desire.




[/quote]
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
How does Jasper compare to the $2300 price tag of my local shop? I looked at their website but don't see prices.

I don't need to keep this car forever, if it's made it this long on stock parts the way I drive it, making it through the 3 years 36k mile warranty will be a good return on my investment.

Hopefully I am financially better off in 3 years to the point where I can get a new car and that would reduce the buick to my around town car. Although rust is consuming the rocker panels at an alarming rate.


No doubt they'd be higher. In speaking with our area rep, Jasper knows that they have a solid product and price accordingly. They refuse to play the price war game too- they will not race to the bottom with their competitors. In fact, they studied that practice and even in "lean" times, they did well financially, where many of their competitors floundered or folded up.

 

[The_Eric]

You know- I should check on the price of the last one I installed. My memory could be fuzzy and it could well be on par with the others. If I remember, I'll post it up later today.

 

[turtlevette]

Put a quart of Lucas trans fix in and see if that helps. The thickeners may raise the line pressure.

If you're getting that much black stuff on the stick another few suck and fills would help too. How is it going to hurt?

As mentioned a filter change might drastically improve the situation. Go to a friends house and do it.

You really don't want to put over 2k into this junker. How long before inspection fails it for rust?

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You did see the part where I've already done drain and fills right? It's had over 20 quarts of fresh fluid and code reset still comes back and still does similar stuff.

It usually shifts great when cold, then might slip very lightly when hot and after enough driving it bangs up shifts and downshifts.


Did you check the transmission oil pressure?

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Put a quart of Lucas trans fix in and see if that helps. The thickeners may raise the line pressure.

If you're getting that much black stuff on the stick another few suck and fills would help too. How is it going to hurt?

As mentioned a filter change might drastically improve the situation. Go to a friends house and do it.

You really don't want to put over 2k into this junker. How long before inspection fails it for rust?



Who are you to call the op's car a junker? It's cheaper to fix it than to spend multiple times MORE on a newer car. The P1811 code is pretty well known as is what causes it and what fixes it.


OP- I checked and the last Jasper 4T65E I sold had a list price of $2100.00. I knocked a bit off of that when I sold it.