thick10w30or0w40 for summer 98 corolla

[ziggy]

Hi all here at bobistheoilguy for a while,ive been running a 10w30 inmy 98 corolla ffor a few years, for summer. now,my father didnt take care of it so well..i got the car 2 years ago, with about 55,000 miles on it.under the oilcap,was caked on carbon,black.i do my oil changes every 3 months,which i normaly acumulate 980 miles total.8 miles to work,8 miles back. lots of stop ngo traffic....which is why and oil alwayscomes out near black..used supertech, pennzoilplatinum, pennzoil ultra mostly.
what ive notice is, the black under the oilcap. is anice clean metal now! i noticed more of the blackcame off with supertech dino. hut reading here, i want too try a ow40 or thick 10w30 for summer...can get in themdupper 90's here,and ambient temp with humidty feels more like 102 F. thickerfor better protection, also the car is parked outside...
read about castrol high mileage here. its pretty much a 40 weight..for a10w30.is it ok to switch back n forth from high mileage too regular over time? (wondering ifseal swelling and shrinking is a good thing or not). im not a fan of castrol...because of the horizon accident... is thier another oil out thier,very close too catrols igh mileage 10w30? i use 5w30 in autumn, 3 months, 5w30 synthetic, winter, 10w30 dino spring, and usually, A 10w30 synth for summer....but am open to a thick dino for summer..
and....have cut open filters past 2 years,bosch distance plus, have a napa silver on now. what i do know is the filters were still totaly usable. would it be wise to change the filter till i know any of the caked on black is gone under oilfillcap? or re use the napa silverfor a few thousand more miles? currently have put 1,700mies on past 3 months..

 

[ziggy]

many say too stay with car specs..but many here say toyotas seem too run a 40 weight ok. ido know,thiers castroledge ow40 and mobil 0w40. local walmart has mobi 1 synhetic high mileage,maxlife synthetic... but because im not a fan at all of bpamoco..maybe supertech 10w30 is just as thick? or advance autos high mileage?supertech synthetic 10w03 felt very thick..shaking the bottle compared to shaking any others..

 

[AKhan87]

Um gibberish.

Run a full synthetic as that will prolong the oil return holes in the piston from clogging up, at the moment I'm rebuilding the 3rd 1zz-FE (same engine that is in your 98 corolla) and I found all the oil return holes were fully clogged up in all of these engines.

I ran a 15w50 before I realized it didn't slow down any oil burning and I doubt it has ANY added benefit compared to the 5w30 that was specced for your car.

6-8k OCI on full synthetics should be good, without a rebuilt and in your position, I would run SuperTech 5w30 Full Synthetic at $17.47 for a 5 quart jug from Walmart with a Fram Ultra oil filter for 2 OCI.

 

[HTSS_TR]

It sounds like your Corolla engine has some sludge, to clean/remove sludge from the engine you like to use a thinner oil at shorter interval for 2-3 oil changes, Valvoline Maxlife 5W20 is a very good oil and doesn't cost much more than conventional oil.

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 10w30 high mileage is far superior to Castrol HM. You could just go straight for the Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 and use it year round. If you want a non synthetic myffavorites are Quaker State defy and Maxlife. I don't see any reason to use more than 5w30

 

[KitaCam]

Originally Posted By: ziggy
Hi all here at bobistheoilguy
I do my oil changes every 3 months, which I normally accumulate 980 miles total, .8 miles to work, 8 miles back with lots of stop and go traffic....which is why oil always comes out near black..used supertech, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra mostly.

What I've notice is, the black under the oil cap is nice and clean metal now! I noticed more of the black came off with supertech dino, but reading here, i want too try a 0w-40 or thick 10w-30 for summer...



Let's see....you've apparently solved a problem with SYNTHETIC OIL and then it returned with conventional/dino oil...

GO BACK TO THE SYNTHETIC...IT WORKED!!!!! I do think though that you can extend THAT OIL from 1000 miles/3 months to 2000 miles and 6 months

...and don't ask whether and how you should change what you're doing...that's just plain silly. You had already solved the problem you had and yet tried another oil that didn't work...there's no need to find another solution to a problem you've solved or for another problem you don't yet have.

 

[chad8]

If the oil is black every time, either change the pcv valve or find the air leak. You have a PROBLEM.
Its not your short trips.
Could be the wrong heat range plugs ,coked rings, worn timing belt (yours will probably be a chain), exhaust leaks, etc.
Run a quart of MMO with supertech cheapo oil for 1000 miles.
See what that does too.

 

[sicko]

Personally I think your oil can go longer then 1000 miles, especially if you can get it out on the highway for 20-30 minutes once a month to get out any moisture that might accumulate in the oil. You could save a little cash and make things easier on yourself, by switching to 6 month OCIs. If you're worried that's too long, you could spend a few bucks on an UOA to verify the oil is still good when you change it. Obviously do what you think is best for the vehicle, and what you're most comfortable with.


For another good high mileage oil, Valvoline Maxlife is an excellent choice. It's on the thicker side, it puts up good UOAs, and it made my car run super smooth.

Also, remember your summer temperatures will have virtually no affect on your oil (outside of start up temperature/thickness). When at full operating temperatures your oil is a hotter than boiling water, which is significantly hotter than your outdoor summer temperatures. Plus, your vehicle's cooling system will regulate your engine temperature if it's working correctly. So there's no reason to go with a thicker oil b/c of the higher outdoor temperatures. But once again, it's your vehicle, so go with what you want and what makes you feel most comfortable.

 

[Zaedock]

Oil color means nothing. An analysis would determine oil actual condition.

There is absolutely no benefit to running a "thick" 10W30 or 0W40 oil in your economy car with your short commute. I would stay with 5W30 year round in what ever flavor oil you like. Personally though, changing a synthetic at 3 months is an economic waste. I would probably do two changes a year with Quaker State UD 5W30 ($21 bucks a jug at Wally Mart)and sleep well at night.

 

[barkingspider]

I would stay w 5 or 10 w30 and change every 6 months with dino. Every year if synthetic. Your oil filters are good to go.

 

[bigt61]

5W-30 SuperTech synthetic, change it once a year. If it leaks, switch to MaxLife red bottle.

 

[ThirdeYe]

If you want something thicker for a neglected vehicle, I'd try some sort of high mileage oil. I've used Valvoline MaxLife a number of times with great success... I haven't used Mobil 1 High Mileage long enough yet to really be able to comment on it. I get a bit of start-up noise with it (perhaps because it's so thick?) but it could just be the filter or maybe the aftermarket exhaust on the car that's causing the noise as well. It usually goes away after about 10 seconds and it doesn't do it at every start-up.

 

[yvon_la]

Pennzoil claim their new oil is one of the best to clean an engine,your case is perfect it would seem.i dont know wich would be perfect for your case tho

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

My son owns a 96 Corolla, 1.8 engine, 218K miles.
At about 180K miles the engine maxed out at leaking/burning about a qt. of oil every 800 miles. He tried ST HM 10W30 with so-so results, slowing down the consumption to about a qt. every 900-1000 miles. He is currently using VML 10W40. The engine is leaking/burning a qt. of oil about every 1300 miles. And, he lives in Tampa, FL. so cold weather is never a problem.

 

[ziggy]

Thanks all!i was thiking a 40 would be better heat protection, because of the summer temps.
hmmmm ok im gunnado that..find if thiers an airleak..spray bottle, water, and listen for a change in noise along a hose, look for bubbles...
have change thePCV valve like2 years ago. dealer PCV valve.
if the rings are coked...is thier a way to clean them other thanoil? like lubeguard maybe, or MMO?

 

[drolds]

First, lets solve your problem. Problem: neglected engine w/ sludge build up in the oil system.
1. If you can pull both valve cover and oil-pan and clean them, much sludge will be gone.
2. New PCV valve which is likely clogged due to lack of maintenance.
3. Run a few short OCIs w/ whatever 10W-30 is on sale w/ a can of 10 minute flush at oil chg.
4. Add a pint of transmission fluid to the oil change and drive it.

In a few thousand miles, you will have removed most of the sludge. 0W-40 or 5W-40 may run fine, but thicker oil will not necessarily clean out the sludge.

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: drolds
First, lets solve your problem. Problem: neglected engine w/ sludge build up in the oil system.
1. If you can pull both valve cover and oil-pan and clean them, much sludge will be gone.
2. New PCV valve which is likely clogged due to lack of maintenance.
3. Run a few short OCIs w/ whatever 10W-30 is on sale w/ a can of 10 minute flush at oil chg.
4. Add a pint of transmission fluid to the oil change and drive it.

In a few thousand miles, you will have removed most of the sludge. 0W-40 or 5W-40 may run fine, but thicker oil will not necessarily clean out the sludge.


Absolutely no need to dilute a formulated motor oil with transmission fluid. Bad advice. Also, you can't determine that an engine has sludge buildup because a plastic valve cover cap has carbon on it.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: drolds
First, lets solve your problem. Problem: neglected engine w/ sludge build up in the oil system.
1. If you can pull both valve cover and oil-pan and clean them, much sludge will be gone.
2. New PCV valve which is likely clogged due to lack of maintenance.
3. Run a few short OCIs w/ whatever 10W-30 is on sale w/ a can of 10 minute flush at oil chg.
4. Add a pint of transmission fluid to the oil change and drive it.

In a few thousand miles, you will have removed most of the sludge. 0W-40 or 5W-40 may run fine, but thicker oil will not necessarily clean out the sludge.



1 and 2 are Okay, but if you use a solvent based engine flush product, do not run it more than at idle, you may damage something.

As for the ATF comment, modern transmission fluids contain about 1/10th the detergents of a formulated API SN motor oil, so that old wives tale needs to die.


Your best bet is to run the specified grade in high mileage form and top off when its low.

If you are sure there's something with the rings you can do a piston soak with GM Top engine cleaner. Go to your local GM/Buick/Chevy dealer and ask for gm 88861803 (GM Top engine cleaner) and let it soak overnight through the spark plug holes. The 16 oz bottle should give you 4 oz per hole.

Link for reference or if you buy online

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-88861803-Engine-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B00BK7LR36

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: drolds
4. Add a pint of transmission fluid to the oil change and drive it.

What's the point of this?

 

[drolds]

I can't believe I have to point out that the flush is to be run for 10 minutes per the directions at IDLE! I'll be more specific in the future. If you misread my post and thought that I meant to drive the car with the flush in, I obviously meant "(at oil change)" add flush for 10 min. & run at idle before engine is shut off and oil plug is removed.
Also a bit of trans fluid will help clean out sludge. Plenty of techs will do this, although it should be kept within reason (e.g. up to a pint).