VersysVsWhat
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- Joined
- May 28, 2025
- Messages
- 180
Thank you Ride_Red, I'll check out that product.
Agree, and I believe those are the instructions that it comes with "Less is Best". I have an Air Hawk knockoff and run it where it feels somewhat flat but it's perfect.I use an AirHawk seat pad on my seat for longer rides. It works pretty good. The trick is to run it almost flat, so that it squishes and distributes the air around all the uneven body contours. If it feels like you are sitting on top of a cushion on top of your seat, you have too much air in it.
Meh... Make it detachable.The downside for the latex foam is that I really need to protect it from water, so the fabrics need to be extremely water proofed and the seams have to be well seam sealed.)
Yeah, was thinking about 1.5" or so wide velcro/hook and loop.Meh... Make it detachable.
I remove my AirHawk pad when it rains. Hasn't been a problem.
This is the video in which Speed Jr. talks about this issue:
To be fair, Shell is using a different lubricity fuel enhancer than 2 stroke oil in all likelihood (I don't remember if the exact chemistry was mentioned in the video at the moment. I will probably re-watch it at some point in the near future and if it is mentioned, I'll report back).
My pinging disappeared too - 3MZ-FEI know that's supposed to be the case but it hasn't been true in my particular experience. Dosing with TCW3 at 1:640 coincided with the disappearance of a slight tendency for my engine to ping. I have heard of another TCW3 user having the same experience.
Maybe there is some threshold before oil has a negative effect. My engine is supposed to use 98 RON but it runs fine on 95 RON dosed with TCW3.
Why? What would this get you on a touring bike?On a side note, another idea I am toying with is adding heat pipes to areas of the engine near the fins (again, to help it run cooler).
(Heat pipes are pretty amazing at transferring/conducting heat away from the heat source. Not hard to make. These would be modified, flattened copper tubes, with silicon carbide placed inside along with the wicking material and distilled water-all under vacuum).
As for myself, no way would I add oil to my gas. I might add some Techron, and I'd always use top tier gas if I was riding regularly. If not, I'd buy non-ethanol and use Techron. I would not modify the cooling system. If my bike had an overheating issue I'd restore to factory specs. I'm not one to mess with oem mods. Your Kawasaki is a very nice bike!Awhile back I watched a Motor Oil Geek video talking about how some lubricity in a fuel helped to lessen wear. Got me thinking since I have a container of Amsoil Saber hanging around that I use for 2 stroke stuff like a chain saw and leaf blower (I've been pretty impressed by the stuff). Would using the highest quality oils (like HPL, Renewable Lubricants, etc) the majority of time, in combo with a little Amsoil Saber+a little gumout+top tier fuel have any positive effects on slowing down valve clearance migration/alignment? Generally the combo should (?) help the motor to run a bit cooler, and expanding contracting cycles seem to affect valve movement.
Since my bike is pretty new, it's a great one to experiment with. The Saber is being mixed no more than 300 to 1 ratio and no less than 600 to 1. Hopefully just enough to add a little lubricity. I haven't noticed any negative effects from this so far. However, one thing I have wondered, would it be negative in the sense of not allowing the valves to seal properly/fully?
I have another 6k miles or so to go before I need to check valve clearance (which I'm somewhat dreading as it is not easy to do on this bike. Not the worst bike out there for this, but definitely not one of the easier ones either).
Anyways, I will update when that comes around with the results.