Bike has been stored for 4 years.....

[BigJohn]

I am considering a motorcycle purchase and have some questions. Here's the deal. The bike was originally purchased in 2006 and until 2018, it was ridden about 1,000 to 1,500 miles a year. Then in 2018, it went into storage and hasn't been started for 4 years. The battery is dead.

I see a couple of issues......
I imagine the top-end of that engine is dry of lubricant.
I imagine whole fuel system is possibly gummed up.

If you purchased this bike, what would you do to get it running?

In no particular order, this is what I am thinking......
* Drain old oil
* Pull off the valve cover and spray some type of lubricant liberally on everything in that top-end.
* Screw out the spark plugs and spray in the cylinder, some type of lube.
* Screw off old oil filter and screw on a new one.
* Pour in new oil.... Maybe Rotella and maybe also an oil additive, maybe MMO.
* Drain fuel from the gas tank and all the fuel lines.
* The bike is fuel injected, so not sure what to do about that.
* Refill gas tank and maybe add a fuel additive that will clean out the old Ethanol.

What am I missing and what else would you do?

 

[spasm3]

I would want to buy it in running condition. If it's not, I would offer really low, as you don't know what the engine condition is?

I would put oil in the cylinders , clean the fuel tank. See if it will run. If it does, change oil and filter, add some b-12 to the fuel and run it. I would crank it up on the old oil since the pump and filter are already wet with oil and will pressurize faster.

 

[BigJohn]

I would want to buy it in running condition. If it's not, I would offer really low, as you don't know what the engine condition is?

I would put oil in the cylinders , clean the fuel tank. See if it will run. If it does, change oil and filter, add some b-12 to the fuel and run it. I would crank it up on the old oil since the pump and filter are already wet with oil and will pressurize faster.

"I would crank it up on the old oil since the pump and filter are already wet with oil and will pressurize faster."

Didn't think of that.... great advice.



.........

 

[Greasymechtech]

Change oil and filter(preferably prefilled as much as possible with a little spillage during install if canister). Put in new battery. Drain/siphon old gas into container and dump into car. Refill with gas dosed quality PEA based FI cleaner(techron) for that gallon or 5 and some stabil marine 360. Get charger or jumpstarter ready for cranking fun. No need to kill new battery.

Don't bother with plugs/valve cover removal..... cranking it for 30 seconds will get it all lubed up. Don't need any oil additives. Rotella or motorcycle oil alone is good enough.

Siphon/refill brake reservoir and bleed. Bring tire pump and top of air... plan on tire replacement so no speeding fun until tires are new.

K.I.S.S.

And yes, cranking it with old oil is smart before the change. It should even run for a few minutes since FI engine will start easily.

If you'd like to splurge some money, get some VP Fix-it-fuel from Homedepot small engine section. After draining fuel, fill with the VP. Once running good on the VP(3-5 minutes), shut it down and top it off full with your fuel container.

 

[CourierDriver]

The guy selling the MC should get it running imho, PS- what brand is the MC??

 

[stangguy]

The guy selling the MC should get it running imho, PS- what brand is the MC??

Anytime I have bought a non running piece of equipment, vehicle or what, I always assumed that the engine, and or transmission if automatic, were NOT GOOD. And my offer of cash would reflect that. If the owner isn't willing to have it in running condition so I can at least hear it run, I am not willing to take the chance on it. Unless it so cheap that I can't turn it down.

 

[Bonz]

If don't mind sharing, what bike is it? Has it sat with fuel in the tank the whole time, has the fuel evaporated off, was the tank drained? Once you are comfortable it will receive fuel, crank it without it firing over to restore oil pressure, I wouldn't hesitate to start it and run it take it out for a quick spin around the block. Then bring it back and change out the oil and fliter. I wouldn't overthink it.

Being fuel injected, no issue with fuel having gotten past the carburetor needle seats into the crankcase.

I've bought lots of used bikes over the year, in non-running condition and running condition. Motorcycles that are 40+ years old are bomb proof with respect to mechanical fortitude. Yours is only 16 years old. I think you're going to have a good time with this bike.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I would not add any additive like MMO to the oil. Just change the oil and filter, and use a good JASO rated oil per the owner's manual.

 

[weasley]

Another thing that can happen is the clutch can seize closed - they will sometimes release if you put it in gear with the engine off and rock it back and forwards whilst holding the clutch lever - or in extremis put it in gear when the engine is running, but be ready for the jolt and have a clear path in front of the bike! Best done on a centre stand or paddock stand if possible.

For the rest of it, I would just try and start it on fresh fuel and see what happens. If you want to re-oil the upper engine then pull the plug leads off and turn it over for a few seconds - depending on the bike you might get the oil pressure status confirmed. New brake fluid and check the calipers are free, consider new tyres. My old bike was supposed to get new brake hoses after a certain number of years but it left my ownership with the original hoses at 20 years old and they were still firm - worth looking at though. Check all the electrics to make sure no rodents have been feasting on the wires.

 

[KrisZ]

You are overthinking this, there is no such thing as dry top end. There will be an oil film on all the parts, probably even the cylinder walls, since the motorcycle was stored inside and with the spark plugs still in.

I would inspect the gas tank for visible rust, if it looks pretty clean, i would drain the old gas, put in fresh gas with some seafoam and just start it up.

I would not touch the oil until the engine has run and got somewhat hot. If you change the oil without starting and letting the engine warm up a bit, most of the contaminants that have settled over the years will still be at the bottom of the oil pan and will not drain. So that exercise will be pointless.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

What am I missing and what else would you do?

First I would spin the oil pump independently of the starter to
force oil between crankshaft and the journals... this action is necessary to
prevent any metal to metal wear on start up... because after 4 years the
risk is that the oil separating these critical parts is gone...

 

[BigJohn]

Sorry fellas... on vacation. I'll provide more info when I get back to the house.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Drain/siphon old gas into container and dump into car.

I would highly recommended against this. We were helping my sister move years ago, I found a gas can she used for her mower, I figured I would just dump it into my civics gas tank.

Later as I was leaving, I made it about a half mile and the car lost power and was bucking. I pulled over to the shoulder. Long story short, I had to get it towed, the fuel filter screen was so clogged up. I had them do the timing belt too since I had 95,000 miles on the car. $800 later I got my car back.

I will never put old gas that has been sitting for years into my car again

If you drain the gas, pour it on a fire ant mound. Don’t put it in your car

 

[BigJohn]

Ok boys.... Great news!!!! I purchased the bike for about 30% of Blue Book.

Got it home and dumped all the fuel I could. I then poured in 1 gallon of fresh gas, along with the prescribed amount of Pri-G. After the battery was charged and alive, I turned it over and it immediately fired up. It took about a minute for it to stop coughing and puking, but smoothed right out. I then shut it off and let it sit overnight, since the Pri-G treated gas was now through all the fuel system.

Next morning, she fired right up and was smooth. I shut her down within 60 seconds and I went to work on the motor oil and final drive oil. Then I took her for a 10 mile ride. I pulled up to the gas station, poured in the right amount of Pri-G and topped off the tank.

She is running great and I have put about 50 miles on her.

The one issue.... the tires just eclipsed 10 years old. I checked the date on them, because they seemed like they were getting too hot when I rode the bike. Promptly I ordered a set of 'hand made' Avons and should have them to mount this next week.

I know this bike was a risk, but it sure has turned out great so far.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

By the way, right now I am running some T4 15w40 in the engine.... hoping it will clean her out for the next 1,000 miles. I will then dump that $11 dino, spin on a new filter and refill with T6, 15w40.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Very nice. My dream bike is a Yamaha fjr1300.

Be careful out there

 

[Jay Freddy]

Ok boys.... Great news!!!! I purchased the bike for about 30% of Blue Book.

Got it home and dumped all the fuel I could. I then poured in 1 gallon of fresh gas, along with the prescribed amount of Pri-G. After the battery was charged and alive, I turned it over and it immediately fired up. It took about a minute for it to stop coughing and puking, but smoothed right out. I then shut it off and let it sit overnight, since the Pri-G treated gas was now through all the fuel system.

Next morning, she fired right up and was smooth. I shut her down within 60 seconds and I went to work on the motor oil and final drive oil. Then I took her for a 10 mile ride. I pulled up to the gas station, poured in the right amount of Pri-G and topped off the tank.

She is running great and I have put about 50 miles on her.

The one issue.... the tires just eclipsed 10 years old. I checked the date on them, because they seemed like they were getting too hot when I rode the bike. Promptly I ordered a set of 'hand made' Avons and should have them to mount this next week.

I know this bike was a risk, but it sure has turned out great so far.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

By the way, right now I am running some T4 15w40 in the engine.... hoping it will clean her out for the next 1,000 miles. I will then dump that $11 dino, spin on a new filter and refill with T6, 15w40.

View attachment 108399​

Congrats! Very nice!

 

[KrisZ]

Never heard of Pri-G before this thread. I bet the bike would’ve fired right up without any elixirs.

In any case, congrats and now seeing what you got, I would recommend flushing the brake system and the ABS unit pronto. Theses things are very hard to get, very expensive and not really rebuildable, as the company that made them went bankrupt, so no spares or new units are available. They tend to fail if the brake fluid is not changed periodically.

 

[DriveHard]

The guy selling the MC should get it running imho, PS- what brand is the MC??

That is not the BITOG way ;-)

You want to know how most folks would get it running if that were the case? Half a can of starter fluid, and a jump start from a car that will overheat the small starter on the bike.

I'd much rather buy it un-touched and gently bring it back to life.

 

[alarmguy]

If you purchased this bike, what would you do to get it running?

In no particular order, this is what I am thinking......
* Drain old oil
* Pull off the valve cover and spray some type of lubricant liberally on everything in that top-end.
* Screw out the spark plugs and spray in the cylinder, some type of lube.
* Screw off old oil filter and screw on a new one.
* Pour in new oil.... Maybe Rotella and maybe also an oil additive, maybe MMO.
* Drain fuel from the gas tank and all the fuel lines.
* The bike is fuel injected, so not sure what to do about that.
* Refill gas tank and maybe add a fuel additive that will clean out the old Ethanol.

What am I missing and what else would you do?

Drain the fuel and as an option a add little Sea Foam with fresh gas per instructions
I would screw out the spark plugs spray in some kind of lube or some Marvel Mystery Oil then crank the engine a few turns before the plugs go back in.

I would check the oil dipstick just to make sure the oil didnt look gummed up or anything ( I doubt it would be)
I would then start the engine for a short period of time.

After turning off the engine I would change the oil and filter. and then 1000 miles later a second time, the reason I wouldnt change the oil first before starting it for the first time in 4 years would be I wouldnt want a "dry start" waiting for a new oil filter to fill up again. Rather Start it with the old oil first then change it.

Once everything is running, flush the old brake fluid and put in new.

 

[BigJohn]

That is not the BITOG way ;-)

You want to know how most folks would get it running if that were the case? Half a can of starter fluid, and a jump start from a car that will overheat the small starter on the bike.

I'd much rather buy it un-touched and gently bring it back to life.

EXACTLY!!! I would not have been interested if they had tried to get it going. I want to do all the work on it... so I know what is done.

She's running like a dream and the new tires just arrived. Now I need to spoon them on, balance and mount and this girl will be ready for many 10's of thousands of miles in the future.