The Mopar 8/9 speed fluid is junk.

No way I'd spend 20 plus a quart knowing what I know now for fluid thats not much better than something you could pick up at a gas station or Walmart. Was told the Mopar/Lifeguard was top notch and super special. Only thing special about it is the price.
 
No way I'd spend 20 plus a quart knowing what I know now for fluid thats not much better than something you could pick up at a gas station or Walmart. Was told the Mopar/Lifeguard was top notch and super special. Only thing special about it is the price.
Same goes for Nissan NS-3 CVT fluid $20+/QT vs Idemitsu or ENEOS both OE suppliers and could be had for 1/2 the Nissan labeled bottles. Dealership mark up.
 
Besides the fact that this whole thread reads like an AD for RP.

Heavy Debris should settle out of the fluid you dont want it circulating.

Why there is debris is another question. Not likely its a fluid problem.
 
Transmissions are hydraulic pumps. The pressure drives everything. Can the fluid be upgraded? It really depends on what magical secret sauce is required and how the vehicle is operated. Low viscosity requirements and pressure requirements by trans control module to facilitate shifting is the biggest factor. 3 fluid changes in 22.5k miles seems excessive and would kinda make me think its something assembled wrong or a problem with one or more of the clutch packs.

How is the vehicle operated and in what environment. The application angle isn't discussed very often but is a huge variable.
Example, my daughter, driving a 2020 Mazda CX-5 with its advanced safety system, used up brakes and rotors in 12,000 miles. The isense system will start braking the vehicle due to following distance and she will mash harder on the go pedal. Are Mazda's junk? No, its her driving style that is abusing the brakes. (I could go on about her issues but I won't)
I do think that's a bit much for metal deposits too but that can be normal for some transmisions. My sierra with the older 4l60e had a fair bit of metal by the first change at 40 something thousand but is still good nearing 300k when I was concerned back then since the yukon didn't but that has the newer 65e so maybe something changed. But the pressure thing is just like with engines, not enough is a problem but a bit more isn't an issue. Ulv transmission can go to 250f but still have enough pressure but the bores start to wear.

Also what an interesting system. Does the mazda not beep or alert her with something when that happens? The computer shouldn't even let a throttle input be accepted if the cameras can verify the presence of a car so that way the sensor circles on bumper don't stop you from accelerating if they go haywire but the system should disable itself and throw an error code instead.

But if that's the case that's just horrible software programing and that's coming from me a guy that's an old fool when it comes to computers and software as even I see the obvious issue with the computer not disallowing you to electronically request more throttle when it is trying to slow you down for safety reasons that have been given at least a check to make sure it's not erroneous.
 
850RE like mine. My pan has been off twice in the 50k miles on my Wrangler Rubicon - and no way near the mess in that - yes - steel pan. I used ZF fluid like all kinds of high performance vehicles around the globe … 6L on my shelf next up … $22/each …
I seldom get above 200°F even on long trips in soft sand …
 
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