"The Additive Package"
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Nice!
Quote:
Tips for Cam Break In
Tim Miranda of Cam-Shield says engine builders should start with a cam/lifter assembly lube that contains moly (in the form of molybdenum disulfide) to coat all highly loaded surfaces (cam lobes, lifter faces, distributor gear, fuel pump lobe, push rod ends). Use enough moly paste to adequately coat the surfaces. Do not use excessive quantities as the function of the moly is to provide interim friction reduction to the surfaces until the ZDDP anti-wear chemistry in the engine oil can reach the surfaces and activate. Once this happens, the moly must vacate these surfaces to allow the ZDDP to control the microscopic wear mechanism associated with proper break-in.
Sums up Redline's best qualities:
Quote:
Cameron Evans of Red Line Oil says that the Internet forums have created a great deal of misinformation about antiwear packages like zinc and phosphorus. “A proper antiwear additive package is far more complex than those two elements,” says Evans. “Both Red Line motor oil and race oils go far beyond the API specs with a robust package. Red Line has always had this strong antiwear package and exceeds the API recommendations. Our products have what engine builders are looking for to protect hard, hot metal under load.
Tips for Cam Break In
Tim Miranda of Cam-Shield says engine builders should start with a cam/lifter assembly lube that contains moly (in the form of molybdenum disulfide) to coat all highly loaded surfaces (cam lobes, lifter faces, distributor gear, fuel pump lobe, push rod ends). Use enough moly paste to adequately coat the surfaces. Do not use excessive quantities as the function of the moly is to provide interim friction reduction to the surfaces until the ZDDP anti-wear chemistry in the engine oil can reach the surfaces and activate. Once this happens, the moly must vacate these surfaces to allow the ZDDP to control the microscopic wear mechanism associated with proper break-in.
Sums up Redline's best qualities:
Quote:
Cameron Evans of Red Line Oil says that the Internet forums have created a great deal of misinformation about antiwear packages like zinc and phosphorus. “A proper antiwear additive package is far more complex than those two elements,” says Evans. “Both Red Line motor oil and race oils go far beyond the API specs with a robust package. Red Line has always had this strong antiwear package and exceeds the API recommendations. Our products have what engine builders are looking for to protect hard, hot metal under load.
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Good find, buster.
Quote:
**** Glady of Brad Penn explains his company processes 100 percent pure Pennsylvania Grade crude oil. “We process it so we get a very unique cut off our fractionation tower. We blend this cut into our racing oil and it has a tremendous affinity for metal surfaces. It goes after the metal surfaces and stays there. So, not only have we not cut our zinc levels, which are typically 1,500 ppm, and our phosphorous at 1,400 ppm, the whole story isn’t just the zinc, it’s the combination of that and the properties of our unique base oil.”
The very reason racers used to love the old Kendall GT-1.
I'm seriously considering running Brad Penn in my new Chrysler.
**** Glady of Brad Penn explains his company processes 100 percent pure Pennsylvania Grade crude oil. “We process it so we get a very unique cut off our fractionation tower. We blend this cut into our racing oil and it has a tremendous affinity for metal surfaces. It goes after the metal surfaces and stays there. So, not only have we not cut our zinc levels, which are typically 1,500 ppm, and our phosphorous at 1,400 ppm, the whole story isn’t just the zinc, it’s the combination of that and the properties of our unique base oil.”
The very reason racers used to love the old Kendall GT-1.
I'm seriously considering running Brad Penn in my new Chrysler.
Originally Posted By: buster
Yeah sounds look really good oil. What are they referring too by "unique cut"?
In the fractionation tower the distilled crude separates into different fractions--gasoline, fuel oil, lube oil, heavy bunker oil, etc. Within each fraction there can be various "cuts" based on predetermined quality parameters including volatility, viscosity, and VI.
Yeah sounds look really good oil. What are they referring too by "unique cut"?
In the fractionation tower the distilled crude separates into different fractions--gasoline, fuel oil, lube oil, heavy bunker oil, etc. Within each fraction there can be various "cuts" based on predetermined quality parameters including volatility, viscosity, and VI.
All of this is ancient history to anyone trained to build engines in any country besides the USA! I was using useing Moly Disulfide in the late 1980's so was the Army. In fact My Dad taught me to use Moly EP grease when I was still in middle school so this is ancient history. The fact that some dinosars that build engines havenot been useing this type of assembly lube just goes to show how old fashioned and out dated alot of people inthe USA are. I also have used Moly EP grease on anything that needed gresing I have wheel bearing and U-Joints that where 17years old and still measured to new specifcations! I used to use Krytex on CV joints but it was too expensive to use after a while. Krytex was OEM lube for Toyota CV shafts for a longtime when you bought the parts to rebuild them they came with aplatic tube of Krytex. I thinkthey switched to something cheaper though as Dupont got krazy with it's price after a while!
Like wise the advice to use a Heavy Duty SAE 30wt. is also old news.....They failed to mention the other old rule which has been around longer then I have been alive which is to run the engine at initial start up for not less then 20 minutes andnot less then 2000 RPM's to allow for proper splash lube on old Detroit iron!
Today I wouldnot use Moly EP grease because itis a solid and plugs up the filter which means you have to change the filter and oil right away. I would isntead use something like Redlines Assembly Lube which has all the same type of stuff that their oil has and it doesnot contain any solids so you donot have to change the oil and filter unlessyou want to!
When I bought a Corvette Engine it was rebuilt by a locakl machine shop! I was horrified to see white lupriplate lithium grease used as the main assembly lube. I had to tear the entire engine apart and clean all the parts, re-lube and assembly. I was afraid I would wipe the cam if I did not roller bearigns or not a little bit of extra protection never goes wasted! It is the one time you do not do it that things go side ways!
Like wise the advice to use a Heavy Duty SAE 30wt. is also old news.....They failed to mention the other old rule which has been around longer then I have been alive which is to run the engine at initial start up for not less then 20 minutes andnot less then 2000 RPM's to allow for proper splash lube on old Detroit iron!
Today I wouldnot use Moly EP grease because itis a solid and plugs up the filter which means you have to change the filter and oil right away. I would isntead use something like Redlines Assembly Lube which has all the same type of stuff that their oil has and it doesnot contain any solids so you donot have to change the oil and filter unlessyou want to!
When I bought a Corvette Engine it was rebuilt by a locakl machine shop! I was horrified to see white lupriplate lithium grease used as the main assembly lube. I had to tear the entire engine apart and clean all the parts, re-lube and assembly. I was afraid I would wipe the cam if I did not roller bearigns or not a little bit of extra protection never goes wasted! It is the one time you do not do it that things go side ways!
In fact I would go so far as to say that people got lazy really. When I managed an AutoZone when I would sell a cam or lifters or a set of pistons I could never get anyone to buy the rather cheap assembly lube that we had on the back shelf with the cams and lifters. So they would spend $100 on a cam shaft but not $5 for the lifter and cam assembly lube! So I think that people being penny wise and pound folish preety much have it coming! This is old old old stuff that has been in HotRod and Chevy Power and Mopar maginzines at least 4 times a year for the last 20 years!
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