Going off Jeffk’s post he’s got a 20 year warranty so I think you need to budget for repairs/ replacement at that point
Tesla Battery Replacement Costs
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
I pushed the various vendors hard on warranty information. There are many vendors all wanting to sell you solar. I warn people that the company is just as important as the materials they use. If the company goes belly up, you may be in trouble. As I recall, the panels, etc are warranted by the manufacturer but issues are handled by your installer.
I used LONGI SOLAR:LR6-60PB-300M panels and ENPHASE IQ7-60-2-US inverters. @OVERKILL did a quick review of my project and deemed the products quality. Of course he can speak to this far better than I.
Last edited:
My panels have a 30 year production guarantee (80% + as I recall), and a 25 year product defect warranty.
They were made in North America, and had a 3ppm defect rate at the time I bought them.
https://silfabsolar.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Silfab-SLG-M-370-SF-0G-20191127-K-Final1.pdf
The inverters are not as robustly warrantied, but are quality product.
https://www.diablosolar.com/docs/partners/sma-warranty-sunny-boy-tl-inverters-v2015-9-1.pdf
They were made in North America, and had a 3ppm defect rate at the time I bought them.
https://silfabsolar.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Silfab-SLG-M-370-SF-0G-20191127-K-Final1.pdf
The inverters are not as robustly warrantied, but are quality product.
https://www.diablosolar.com/docs/partners/sma-warranty-sunny-boy-tl-inverters-v2015-9-1.pdf
Correct. I don't see how this is pertinent, though.
I'd have liked to have waited, but as you note...money's burnin'. Every day I drive, I'm doing so at 500% cost to what I could be...and with less performance.
Also, I want to take advantage of the tax credit when/how I can.
Who cares.
With 7 year ROI including install and a 20 year life it way more than covers that.
As I recall, my panels are guaranteed to retain 80% efficiency after 25 of use.
The 20 year is for workmanship and damage. I guess I'll worry about it in another 20 years...
$22K for an out of warranty battery? Sorry but no thanks.
Some of us forgot that the most expensive part of an EV vs gasoline argument is that EV battery depreciate over time (more so) and mileage (less so), vs in a gasoline car it is the fuel cost. The energy cost per mile is going to be better in EV because electricity is cheaper to transport from the raw fuel, have a more diverse source (nuclear, hydro, coal, natural gas, wind, etc), and have off peak time vs gasoline (from oil well in selected locations, and not every nation has energy security).
People likely wouldn't replace a cheap EV's worn out battery with new cells, they may just swap a collision salvage battery and move on, till its useful lifespan is over. People therefore may not do as much collision repair as they might be cheaper to find 2 donors and swap them.
Poor people making $18/hr do not buy new car, gasoline or EV. It is obviously not going to work financially. They may, however, buy worn out gasoline cars and pay for regular repairs on the powertrain, or they may buy a worn out EV and fast change half way between commute, and still live far away like low income people typically do (a lot of construction workers I know live in Salinas while working in Santa Clara, 2 hrs each way). They would likely have to fast charge in Gilroy for 20 mins if their range is not enough to go home every day. Why would they do that? I don't know, not today for sure, but that might happen in the future if charging is faster and EV is cheaper as they age by the year, or maybe we will have better batteries in the future that makes swapping every 10 year be cheaper or rebuilding old batteries is a viable solution.
People likely wouldn't replace a cheap EV's worn out battery with new cells, they may just swap a collision salvage battery and move on, till its useful lifespan is over. People therefore may not do as much collision repair as they might be cheaper to find 2 donors and swap them.
Poor people making $18/hr do not buy new car, gasoline or EV. It is obviously not going to work financially. They may, however, buy worn out gasoline cars and pay for regular repairs on the powertrain, or they may buy a worn out EV and fast change half way between commute, and still live far away like low income people typically do (a lot of construction workers I know live in Salinas while working in Santa Clara, 2 hrs each way). They would likely have to fast charge in Gilroy for 20 mins if their range is not enough to go home every day. Why would they do that? I don't know, not today for sure, but that might happen in the future if charging is faster and EV is cheaper as they age by the year, or maybe we will have better batteries in the future that makes swapping every 10 year be cheaper or rebuilding old batteries is a viable solution.
I honestly feel like living outside of town costs more money. I have $110/mo internet. I spend $500/mo in fuel in a vehicle that averages 24mpg total. I spend 2 hours a day driving that I could otherwise spend doing other stuff. My estate cost a lot more than I could have gotten a rather nice house in town for.
Link? I paid $4000 for a Jasper engine ~2002 ...
Random 2017 MB C300 coupe that I found on CarMax.
Let's assume they charge you MSRP for the long block; it is usually more. $10,450
16.9 hours (which is low, it is probably higher) at $219/hr = $3701.10. Aftermarket labor guides are usually lower than MB labor guides.
Let's assume $1K for incidentals that are not included. Belt, hoses, water pump, fluids, etc.
With tax, you are already at $16,152.88
And this is just an entry-level MB sedan/coupe with the base 274 engine.
Last edited:
Why would you buy a long block with MSRP for a 2017 vehicle? It is much better to just pull a salvage unless the manufacturer is paying for it.
Have you priced a salvage engine lately?
A lot of these problematic engines are not a good candidate for used.
What makes you think the rebuild would be any better if the original design is problematic?
Anyways, the original 22000 for a whole pack replacement on a 50k car seems OK if the car is in good condition, but if it is a worn out old car at 15-20 year it may not worth it. At 15 it is probably better to just swap the battery with a salvage, for 20 I'd just scrap the car if the battery wears out, like I wouldn't do an engine / tranny rebuild on a 20 year old car.
At 20 years that car has given me 600K miles of service and I've saved enough money to buy whatever car I want with savings alone over a gas burner, lol!
It's a 40 mile commute through the mountains and then down a nice freeway. 1 hour each way. I love it. Allows me to keep the blood and violence and crap at work separate from home. Mental buffer zone to listen to some nice Harmon Kardon speakers.
Oh, I had calculated my electric bill at $83, I believe. Turns out I was over by 50 cents now that I've received it this afternoon. I am 100% certain that I will only be billed 12 cents per kWh that my PEV uses, based on this and my earlier posts. There are no wild hidden fees from the electric company.
Similar threads
