Terrible brake fade!

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Originally Posted By: jtaylor
thanx 94max, will do! the problem is, i have seen several results of tests saying that braking surface temps are up to 150 degrees cooler when drilled rotors are used. or is this all [censored]?
So you are saying,

get a really good, high friction, highly fade resistant pad, high performance fluid, and that should clear it all up? how about ss brake lines?


Slotted rotors came out to help dissipate the build-up of gasses from the pads. Today's pads do not off-gas like they used to, so I don't think there is any advantage to slotted/drilled rotors anymore. Besides, many pad designs these days have slots to help with this problem. And I hear of many drilled/slotted rotors cracking. I also think SS lines do not help that much, more for just looks.

Lots of info about this, here is just one link...

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513
 
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
thats not really the issue i dont think because ive got aftermarket pads as it is. and it's the fronts that do most of the braking anyway.


Not true. The newer Accords are one of those cars where there is a SIGNIFICANT rear brake bias.
 
Maybe this has already been covered. Overheating brake pads or rotors themselves usually results in a brake pedal that is hard but ineffective.

Overheating brake fluid (or losing brake fluid, less likely here) results in the spongy pedal.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
Maybe this has already been covered. Overheating brake pads or rotors themselves usually results in a brake pedal that is hard but ineffective.

Overheating brake fluid (or losing brake fluid, less likely here) results in the spongy pedal.


That's what I was thinking as well, glazed pads don't change how the brake pedal feels, they just stop working.

I think OP should do a complete brake fluid flush first.
 
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
thanx 94max, will do! the problem is, i have seen several results of tests saying that braking surface temps are up to 150 degrees cooler when drilled rotors are used. or is this all [censored]
So you are saying,

get a really good, high friction, highly fade resistant pad, high performance fluid, and that should clear it all up? how about ss brake lines?


cool rotors aren't necessarily a good thing - the rotor is not a source of dispersion of energy but rather a storage of energy. Drilled rotor surface temperatures could indicate cooling, or more likely poorer heat transfer due to less friction surface. That is not a good thing...
 
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
How can I tell if the shop will do the flush right?


Well, you really can't. Which is why, just like changing our own oil, many of us have learned to flush our brakes as well. That's something you might consider, it's not difficult and there are several tutorials/how-to's on doing it. One very good source for my Toyotas has been the online forums specifically for the models we own, the Tacoma and the Corolla. You might look into finding a forum for Accords.

I just saw that Honda has isssued a TSB about the front brakes of certain Accords, check to see if your's is included...

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A09-096.PDF
 
Do you have rear disc or drum brakes?
Drums can fade much easier because of the drums expanding away from the shoes. Plus, brake shoes never have as good of a material as good disc pads.

This is what I was afraid of [and posted ]about the NAPA adaptive pads . The outer pad only has an 'E' hot rating - not so good.
Apparently fine for light street use, but not made for getting good and hot.
 
anybody have any ideas what kind of pads and fluid i should be getting, and what kind of rotors I should be getting if that is even an issue?
 
Contact Hawk ....speak with the tech team and explain the operating conditions ,they would know and recommend a good pad.It wont be a racing pad to be sure ,though.Keep your stock rotors and have them turned.
 
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Hawk HPS are good street pads.
A bit dirty in operation, though.
Anybody's brake fluid is fine. Dot 4 has a slightly higher boiling point than DOT3 .
 
A 2008 model year is not very old. Brake fluid has a boiling point. DOT 3, DOT 4... as the numbers go up the boiling point increases. 3 & 4 are widely used & mixable and really should never be an issue unless you are at a road course driving flat out & threshold braking repeatedly. Of course its known fluid absorbs moisture and this lowers the boiling point. When fluid boils it creates air bubbles and that a void in the hydraulic system and the pedal drops because you have to compress the air bubbles before you get solid fluid which doesn't compress.
 
Ok guys, I got some wilwood HiTemp 570 brake fluid flushed into the system to replace the [censored] that honda had in there. much firmer pedal (doesnt go all the way to the floor at stop signs). and, although I havnt tried yet, it feels closer to being able to lock the wheels.

But what I am asking next is, what would my money best be spent on, rotors (I can get 4 slotted for 200) or a good set of pads on stock rotors? As in, which one would yield the best best improvement to repeated, hard braking in the canyons?
 
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