Terrible brake fade!
- Thread starter jtaylor
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oh, I took it to a shop I like, i trust the guy, he did my intake and exhaust and i never threw a CEL or O2 light or anything and he's always been really cool. it, in essence, is just a complete swap out of the entire brake fluid. there are several procedures. From what I know, it's like bleeding, but you bleed all four brakes
RR, RL, FR, FL...making sure to not suck up air from the reservoir. then once they are all bled, you add new stuff to the reservoir and bleed again in each wheel, until you see clean stuff come out of each caliper. that's what I've always heard. could be wrong tho.
Anyway, Im coming by some money soon (hopefully) and I'd like an answer to the question if at all possible
RR, RL, FR, FL...making sure to not suck up air from the reservoir. then once they are all bled, you add new stuff to the reservoir and bleed again in each wheel, until you see clean stuff come out of each caliper. that's what I've always heard. could be wrong tho.
Anyway, Im coming by some money soon (hopefully) and I'd like an answer to the question if at all possible
I would not put on slotted (or drilled) rotors, it doesn't help on braking performance it only for look. I would spend money on performance pads with stock rotors if it's still usable (not below minimum thickness). I don't know much about Accord braking system, but OEM pads/rotors is the best for S2000 and it costs less than after market pads/rotors.
Unless you have a one person bleeder ,make sure your person in the car knows the meaning when you say pump up press and or holddown (whatever system you have worked out ) and release ,with no air let in.That pedal should be rock hard with the engine off and very firm with the engine running or you have air or a bad master cylinder.If your stock pads are glazed ...they're shot.If youre running canyons Fast and Furious style ,stock pads will never keep up, stock rotors are fine.
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"What should I do to get rid of this fade? It was scary!"
I would drive slower ....
(sounds like you are trying to pack 3 lbs of poop in a 2 lb bag)
I would drive slower ....
(sounds like you are trying to pack 3 lbs of poop in a 2 lb bag)
The point is to drive faster. getting better pads and higher quality plain rotors should do much better.
soooo, centric blanks? what kind of blanks? and what kind of pabs...are the stoptech street plus pads good?
?
Quote:
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MagnaFlow Race Parts are rugged enough to survive grueling races, like the Baja 1000, Dakaar, Monster Jam, or even X-Games. These parts are tough as nails and give you that performance you're looking for. Also, now that racetracks are enforcing stricter decibel level restrictions, MagnaFlow is giving the consumer another option when it comes to choosing a race parts to stay within those guidelines.
I have been looking at this on the magnaflow web site and cant seem to find any vids. Anyone know a website with a video.
- [color:"Black"]magnaflow diesel exhaust[/color]
MagnaFlow Race Parts are rugged enough to survive grueling races, like the Baja 1000, Dakaar, Monster Jam, or even X-Games. These parts are tough as nails and give you that performance you're looking for. Also, now that racetracks are enforcing stricter decibel level restrictions, MagnaFlow is giving the consumer another option when it comes to choosing a race parts to stay within those guidelines.
I have been looking at this on the magnaflow web site and cant seem to find any vids. Anyone know a website with a video.
Try the new Stoptech 309 pads.
Another vote for Stoptech. An excellent street formula for aggressive driving styles.
One man bleeder.
Cheap and very easy to use.
Available at your local auto part store.
They usually come with a variety of adaptors to connect to the bleeder screw in case the tube does not just slip over the screw end tightly.
When you loosen the bleeder screw, the fluid will flow out the hole in the center of the nipple.
Here is a picture of one set up and in use.
The bottle is placed slightly higher than the bleeder screw.....this way, when you pump the brake pedal, the fluid runs out, filling at least a big enough section of the tubing that when you release the brake pedal......ONLY fluid will be drawn back into the caliper, no air.
Connect the tube to the bleeder screw.....loosen the screw
A couple pumps of the brake pedal is all it takes to fill the bottle......then you tighten the bleeder screw......and remove the bottle to empty it.......repeat the process until the fluid coming out is clean.
The fluid in that bottle is clean fluid......
Here is what the first bottle you pump out may look like (I have seen worse)
A good aftermarket rotor is Raybestos "Advanced Technology".
They have 3 price points, Service Grade, Professional Grade and Advanced Technology.
Advanced Technology is their premium (best of the 3) grade.
For a aftermarket ceramic pad, I have liked Akebono.
Rockauto website has some good prices on brake rotors and pads.
You will notice that "Ceramic" is available in a wide variety of prices......not all Ceramic pads are created equal.
I would stay away from drilled rotors as the drilling removes material and can weaken the rotor.....leading to cracking in the rotor material under high heat conditions.
One thing that DID help my brake performance on a vehicle (after I had tried fluid/rotors/pads/calipers)......the flexible brake hose that connects from the caliper to the hard line.
They were not expensive and were easy to change.
I just got the Raybestos OEM style (none of the stainless steel "mesh" [censored]) from Rockauto...and they did the trick for me.
It was on an older vehicle, and even though they looked good,they were either broken down inside (restricting flow) or expanding very slightly when I pressed the pedal.
I am suspecting the first......either way.....they needed replacement.
Cheap and very easy to use.
Available at your local auto part store.
They usually come with a variety of adaptors to connect to the bleeder screw in case the tube does not just slip over the screw end tightly.
When you loosen the bleeder screw, the fluid will flow out the hole in the center of the nipple.
Here is a picture of one set up and in use.
The bottle is placed slightly higher than the bleeder screw.....this way, when you pump the brake pedal, the fluid runs out, filling at least a big enough section of the tubing that when you release the brake pedal......ONLY fluid will be drawn back into the caliper, no air.
Connect the tube to the bleeder screw.....loosen the screw
A couple pumps of the brake pedal is all it takes to fill the bottle......then you tighten the bleeder screw......and remove the bottle to empty it.......repeat the process until the fluid coming out is clean.
The fluid in that bottle is clean fluid......
Here is what the first bottle you pump out may look like (I have seen worse)
A good aftermarket rotor is Raybestos "Advanced Technology".
They have 3 price points, Service Grade, Professional Grade and Advanced Technology.
Advanced Technology is their premium (best of the 3) grade.
For a aftermarket ceramic pad, I have liked Akebono.
Rockauto website has some good prices on brake rotors and pads.
You will notice that "Ceramic" is available in a wide variety of prices......not all Ceramic pads are created equal.
I would stay away from drilled rotors as the drilling removes material and can weaken the rotor.....leading to cracking in the rotor material under high heat conditions.
One thing that DID help my brake performance on a vehicle (after I had tried fluid/rotors/pads/calipers)......the flexible brake hose that connects from the caliper to the hard line.
They were not expensive and were easy to change.
I just got the Raybestos OEM style (none of the stainless steel "mesh" [censored]) from Rockauto...and they did the trick for me.
It was on an older vehicle, and even though they looked good,they were either broken down inside (restricting flow) or expanding very slightly when I pressed the pedal.
I am suspecting the first......either way.....they needed replacement.
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