Temperature on New car

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Al

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I hooked up my OBDII (Phone App) on my new Mazda CX-30. The water temp cycles between 167 and 172F I will wait a week or two to see if there are any other problems. But I will be takiong it in to get the Stat replaced. Glad I checked it. Definitely will affect efficiency.

Even so the thing gets (according to the readout) 32mpg
in suburban driving. I know that is optimistic.
 
I haven't hooked up an ODB reader to my Corolla but on these colder days it was taking "forever" to heat up. The heater core is a mini-radiator after all. Light driving, efficient engine, and trying to keep warm--an engine may have a tough time getting up to temp.
 
I haven't hooked up an ODB reader to my Corolla but on these colder days it was taking "forever" to heat up. The heater core is a mini-radiator after all. Light driving, efficient engine, and trying to keep warm--an engine may have a tough time getting up to temp.

yes, just sitting in front of a red light at road works can ake mine drop from normal in a minute or 2. That's with the engine off. The heater gives up quicker than that, maybe 30 seconds before that has exhausted it's heat. And this is temperatures just above freezing. Also coasting down a hill for a minute or so drops the temps down.

I like that the coolant temp gauge isn't a total dummy.
 
What is Mazda's rated temp on the stat?
I don't know. Every car I have looked at is 195%. It actually "cycles" between 167 and 172F. I have zero doubt it is the stat. My post is a heads up to others. The oil t emp only goes to 152F Soj 22cSt oil and lower efficiency = loss og gas mileage.

And yet it still delivers 30 mph (actual) in suburban driving)
 
Keep us posted. I don't know that this is a problem on this specific brand new Mazda, but if there's no codes pending or present, I doubt a Mazda dealer is going to do a thing about it.
 
good luck.
I thought those switched to a coolant valve vs reg thermostat?
Sounds like something wrong I'd expect it to be in the high 180's to low 200's
 
What year is your CX-30? On newer CX-30s, I think its MY2023+, with the updated 2.5L Mazda changed back to a traditional thermostat. They were using a coolant control valve previously for a few years. That control valve would fail and cause the engine to not heat up.
 
What year is your CX-30? On newer CX-30s, I think its MY2023+, with the updated 2.5L Mazda changed back to a traditional thermostat. They were using a coolant control valve previously for a few years. That control valve would fail and cause the engine to not heat up.
Ah, that makes sense.
I'd assume its brand new since @Al said he was dropping the FF to put in 30wt.
 
I hooked up my OBDII (Phone App) on my new Mazda CX-30. The water temp cycles between 167 and 172F I will wait a week or two to see if there are any other problems. But I will be takiong it in to get the Stat replaced. Glad I checked it. Definitely will affect efficiency.

Even so the thing gets (according to the readout) 32mpg
in suburban driving. I know that is optimistic.
What you describe may be considered normal operation, a lot depends on the location of the temp sensor. I saw this about the CX-30...

When the engine coolant temperature is 74.5-77.5C(167-171F), the thermostat valve starts to open and the engine coolant passes through
 
Ah, that makes sense.
I'd assume its brand new since @Al said he was dropping the FF to put in 30wt.
Based on that, I would guess it would have the traditional thermostat. My CX-50 has a traditional thermostat too but not the same as the newer CX-30s. I know my CX-50 doesn't run particular hot either, it will fluctuate between ~170-180 in cooler weather. Without a check engine light and the temps given, I doubt the dealer would replace the thermostat.

The oil t emp only goes to 152F Soj 22cSt oil and lower efficiency = loss og gas mileage.
I actually made a thread about the oil temp in my CX-50 with almost the same engine, you can see it here
 
yes, just sitting in front of a red light at road works can ake mine drop from normal in a minute or 2. That's with the engine off. The heater gives up quicker than that, maybe 30 seconds before that has exhausted it's heat. And this is temperatures just above freezing. Also coasting down a hill for a minute or so drops the temps down.

I like that the coolant temp gauge isn't a total dummy.
That's not right
 
I don't know. Every car I have looked at is 195%. It actually "cycles" between 167 and 172F. I have zero doubt it is the stat. My post is a heads up to others. The oil t emp only goes to 152F Soj 22cSt oil and lower efficiency = loss og gas mileage.

And yet it still delivers 30 mph (actual) in suburban driving)
Modern cars will typically set a CEL if the coolant temp is too low, or even reaching normal temp too slowly.
 
Thanks for the responses. I will go see the service manager on monday. If indeed this is "Normal" I will switch to 20 wt oil. May they do this to keep a higher oil viscosity. Yet it MUST hurt CAFE?
 
Thanks for the responses. I will go see the service manager on monday. If indeed this is "Normal" I will switch to 20 wt oil. May they do this to keep a higher oil viscosity. Yet it MUST hurt CAFE?

coolant temp is not oil temp. and obd oil temp can be an outright lie.
 
What you describe may be considered normal operation, a lot depends on the location of the temp sensor. I saw this about the CX-30...
This is true, my Traverse runs 185-188;since the thermostat is in the inlet size. If it is an issue it will throw a P0128 code.
 
Well the 150F oil temp reflects a 170F water temp. They are both not wrong.
I think what @Jetronic is referring to is that some OEMs estimate the engine oil temperature. They don't have an actual oil temp sensor. Mazda does both, when looking at Mazda's PID list, they have a estimated oil temperature and an actual oil temp from the oil temp sensor. So, you just have to make sure you are looking at the correct one.
 
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