Teach me about dome vs. thread.

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Originally Posted By: river_rat
What truck/engine/year, etc. do you have labman...if you don't mind saying? Maybe I can search around and find something for a filter replacement you'd like? Is it an odd filter?


It is for a 1977 Chevy LUV with the 1.8L gas engine. The owner's manual says PF 9. They were replaced with the PF 1177. I have had mixed luck finding either over the years. For a while, I could buy all the PF 9's I wanted at K-Mart for $2. In the early 90's I think Wal-Mart didn't have the AC for my Quad 4 and Parts America didn't have the PF 9. Then Wal*Mart dropped AC all to gather. That is when I got into filter chopping, a crude tool. Only 2 brands stood out, AC with half again more media, and Fram with half as much. So for a few years I happily used $2 ST's that seemed to be as good or better than anything else. Then Champ cheapened them with the dome end bypass and then Wal-Mart quit carrying them altogether. Well I got some Purolators with oil deals. Not too bad especially when AAP would let me have an L14536 cartridge for my car at the sale price.

But I got tired of all the hype here about Purolators and got to thinking about their dome end bypasses and foreign ownership and decided to look around. AZ had an STP that is almost the same except for the ownership. I also managed to find what looks like an even better Pronto, PO4619. The box listed equivalents, some different than the app books for my truck. MC FL813, Fram PH 3664, Purolator L 14619, and wix 51526. That gives me some more things to look for.

Originally Posted By: river_rat
I thought he said he couldn't find Ecores that fit(?)


That's right. I didn't even look at the STP, assuming it was an Ecore. I have looked at some other stuff too, ST3593A, PF 1127, maybe others, but there were all conventional with dome end bypasses. I also had some promising numbers, but Wal*Mart didn't stock them. Next time I am ready for a filter, I may check some other numbers at AZ. They have a lot more STP's than Wal*Mart has ST's. It is also possible some of the conventional ones I am finding now will be Ecore by then. The 3593A is a smaller filter, but has plenty of room for as much media as the 3950's have now.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
It is for a 1977 Chevy LUV with the 1.8L gas engine.

Sweet! I had a '77 LUV, baby blue, 2WD, 4 speed. It was a rust bucket but I loved that truck.
Buddy of mine has a nearly immaculate '78 with automatic in his shop waiting for parts. 31,000 original miles.
I tried to buy it but no way.
Originally Posted By: labman
That's right. I didn't even look at the STP, assuming it was an Ecore.

So you don't want an ecore? Maybe I can find a Baldwin number that would work.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
Looks like the WIX 51381 or NAPA Gold 1381 is the best match for the criteria ... except for maybe cost. These will not be $2.49, but does have base end bypass and US owned/made ... for now.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51381

But for a couple bucks more...these are excellent.
Maybe the fun is in the hunt...making criteria that makes it impossible to just walk in and get a good filter.
Is that it labman?
Maybe you are needing a thread end bypass, predominantly American owned, non-Ecore, for less than $3?
If I can, I'll find you a number, but it'll be tough.
 
river_rat So you [U said:
don't[/U] want an ecore? Maybe I can find a Baldwin number that would work.

No, I figure an Ecore is my best bet, American made, American owned, thread end bypass, cheap, and I don't have any metal end cap fetishes. I thought my search was over when I found out AZ still stocked the SO3950. Then I find out it is a match for a Purolator. It may require no more than taking the list of 20-1.5 thread filters to AZ and looking around.

I am pretty sure the Pronto jobber has a Hastings if I decide the thread end bypass is worth $7.
 
You're running out of choices with the price point and the thread-end bypass. For $5-$6 I would go with Wix as SuperBusa suggested.
The list I come up with (but double check):
AC Delco PF1177
Wix 51334
NAPA Gold 1334
NAPA ProSelect 21334
Baldwin B141
I don't know if the Baldwin in that size, or the Proselect at ~$3.99 have the thread end bypass or not.
 
Man, now that you guys are playing nice again (for now), I feel even worse about making my "shame on you" post" and bringing up Labman's LUV(my apologies). I actually enjoy Labman's tenacity and support his ideas about brake work.

What's freaky is that I also owned a 1977 baby blue Chevy LUV . My first new vehicle ever, right after I got married. Mine was cool, but it rusted out in 5 years in spite of rust proofing.

So, all three of us can "share the LUV" and are in a brotherhood....nitwit, dimwit, and halfwit.....
43.gif
 
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AC Delco PF1177

Haven't seen one in years. With the SO3950, ST3593A, PF1127, and Other Champ products being conventional with dome end bypasses, I wouldn't buy one sight unseen.

Wix 51334

With your reports of leaky Wixes, not sure I wan to pay a premium price for a defective filter metal end caps and all.

NAPA Gold 1334

Pay a brand name price for a house brand made by a questionable
company?

NAPA ProSelect 21334

Maybe, I would need to make sure the reports of dome end bypass and made in China are false.

Baldwin B141

Never seen one in a store. Considering the whole lack of evidence filters make any difference, I would hesitate to cough up for one. Same thing for the $7 hastings I do know where I can buy one. Of course, the last Hastings I squandered money on didn't look any better than the ST at the time.

No big rush here. I just put the Pronto on and filled it with M1. With Blackstone showing the last fill of Pennzoil YB in great shape after 3 months, I may wait until June to sample the M1 and decide when to change from the results. Who knows what filters will be available in 6 months or a year? Maybe I should even give Fram another chance.

Meantime, I am going to look into doing my own TBN. Is there more to it than a simple titration? I have done thousands of acid numbers. Of course, I had an employer furnishing the equipment and supplies. Right now a good supply of the right acid of known concentration might be the biggest problem.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
What's freaky is that I also owned a 1977 baby blue Chevy LUV . My first new vehicle ever, right after I got married. Mine was cool, but it rusted out in 5 years in spite of rust proofing.

LOL. They all did unless you lived in Arizona or something!
Originally Posted By: labman
Meantime, I am going to look into doing my own TBN. Is there more to it than a simple titration?

I've only ever titrated aqueous solutions. I dunno about oil.
 
Rust, the dirtiest word in the language for a LUV owner.

I forget the blend of solvents we used at RM for acid number on paint resins. At Ashland we used pyridine which I won't be messing with. We used tenth normal KOH in methanol. This may take some work.
 
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LOL. They all did unless you lived in Arizona or something!


I imagine it can be traced to some impurities in the metal. On my Courier (Mazda-Ford's pre-Ranger market answer) the front fenders would rot out near the front door pillars. It was traced to the brackets that were made of a dissimilar metal or were galvanized.
 
The main thing that held back the market for Japanese vehicles in those days was their pathetic corrosion resistance. But in Japan, they only keep (or at that time, kept) vehicles for about three years...then off to the Phillipines with them. No reason to even paint the undersides let alone use good steel.

My LUV was 11 years old and 130,000 miles when I bought it. It was so full of holes it was nearly adaptive camoflage.

Did you see that truck?
No, I thought I saw some guy in the sitting position whiz by though.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I imagine it can be traced to some impurities in the metal. On my Courier (Mazda-Ford's pre-Ranger market answer) the front fenders would rot out near the front door pillars. It was traced to the brackets that were made of a dissimilar metal or were galvanized.

Now that you mention it, a buddy of mine had an '84 Mazda B2000 that dissolved right there.
 
Everything rusted in the 70's. I had a 71 Valiant. The dealer had it rust proofed before it was ever driven on a salted street. The fenders rusted through shortly after the 3 year warranty ran out. My 81 Phoenix, just as it came from the factory, didn't have any rust when I traded it off at the end of 91. Sometime in that period, the domestics got their act together. I worked a job for a while where I drove a 77 F150. Hardly any rust at all compared to my LUV.
 
I suppose when people used to trade those old short-lived cars more often, there was no reason to make them resistant.
I don't think my dad ever had a car for longer than 4 years in the 60s/70s.
 
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