Taurus SHO ignition problems

[Bird Horse]

Hello, in a time cruch but I'll get yall up to speed. Fixing a 1994 Taurus SHO MTX, car uses a Low Data Rate ODB-I compliant EEC-IV computer with a waste-spark distributorless ignition. And she don't run. Sometimes get some detonation while trying to crank, sometimes at WOT I can get her going (like trash) for a few moments.
The architecture: car uses an electronic DIS module grounded thru the beautiful aluminum intake. Receives input from a crankshaft and single camshaft position sensors, I think they are HAL effect, at least one of them is. Sends signal directly to the coil pack. There is also something called a SPOUT connector that when disconnected, disables PCM input to control spark advance and dwell. without it, spark defaults to 10 degrees advance.
So here's where I'm at:
CKP is about a year old, Tach works
CPS is new, previous oil-soaked but still working sensor made no difference.
DIS module was triple-tested on a machine, verified ~.3ohm ground to chassis.
PCM reman installed ~2 years ago, show no other oddities in operation.
CCRM: ?. Fuel pump and fan work normal. Still no A/C tho.
COIL worked last year.
WIRES: Havn't done a test yet but I have a new set in storage
PLUGS: New Denso, forget the number but I think they are the actual OEM. The front three I pulled this morning were wet with fuel and mildly but evenly sooty, wiped right off. Gapped at .042, tested continuity from tip to tip, hard to get a steady probe my voltmeter showed between 3.7 and 4.8 kOhm.

 

[clinebarger]

You haven't physically checked for spark out of the towers on the coil?

 

[Bird Horse]

You haven't physically checked for spark out of the towers on the coil?

Oh, i guess I havn't. I how do that?

 

[ripcord]

A spark tester like this is a handy tool

https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html

 

[dnewton3]

One thing I've learned from watching many South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics is that you better use OEM electronic parts from OE sources, or you're asking for trouble. Any one of those sensors/components you've replaced could be suspect if they are not genuine OE quality from the OE source. I've seen countless videos of these guys troubleshooting electrical faults only to find that the aftermarket sensors were the core problem.

When I repair stuff, I have no problem using hard parts (shocks, brakes, hoses, belts, calibers, yada yada yada) from 3rd party sources. But when it comes to electronic stuff, it's strictly OE for me. I realize that makes it hard at times, because the OE parts may be out of production; then you're at the whim of China-based 3rd party junk.

 

[Bird Horse]

One thing I've learned from watching many South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics is that you better use OEM electronic parts from OE sources, or you're asking for trouble. Any one of those sensors/components you've replaced could be suspect if they are not genuine OE quality from the OE source. I've seen countless videos of these guys troubleshooting electrical faults only to find that the aftermarket sensors were the core problem.

When I repair stuff, I have no problem using hard parts (shocks, brakes, hoses, belts, calibers, yada yada yada) from 3rd party sources. But when it comes to electronic stuff, it's strictly OE for me. I realize that makes it hard at times, because the OE parts may be out of production; then you're at the whim of China-based 3rd party junk.

Yeah...can't buy *jack* for this motor. Some parts you can't even get new aftermarket lol. There is like, one specialty SHO supplier and his stuff looks just like my CarQuest junk, but he's at least well respected by the SHO community so I'll still trust his selection first (even at double the cost). Best I could do is OE plugs.

A spark tester like this is a handy tool

https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html

Got one, wayyy too dim, and it's not gonna fit the coil-to-wire connections.

 

[mk378]

Take a piece of ordinary low-voltage wire, hold one end on ground the other end about 1/2 inch from the coil tower, and crank. Should be strong blue sparks.

The other side of the waste-spark coil should remain connected to its wire and plug while you do this. In other words disconnect one spark wire at a time to test.

If you have spark check that the wires are in proper order each post going to the correct plug. Use a timing light on wire 1 to see that it is firing in time with the crank.

 

[Chris142]

I can't help with your problem but one of those cars wiped the floor with my 340 duster around 1992.

 

[Bird Horse]

Well, doing a sanity/resistance check on the new wires I got, a few were as high as 55kOhm. It's maybe 3 foot at best. That's...not good, right?

 

[Bird Horse]

Take a piece of ordinary low-voltage wire, hold one end on ground the other end about 1/2 inch from the coil tower, and crank. Should be strong blue sparks.

The other side of the waste-spark coil should remain connected to its wire and plug while you do this. In other words disconnect one spark wire at a time to test.

If you have spark check that the wires are in proper order each post going to the correct plug. Use a timing light on wire 1 to see that it is firing in time with the crank.

No spark on the 3/4 coil (still testing the others