1997 Saturn P0326 No power
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The car has a plugged up catalytic converter. I can tell from here.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The car has a plugged up catalytic converter. I can tell from here.
No I don't think so in this case because he said the car runs fine after clearing the code. Usually a CAT converter will clog and you won't have power even after clearing the code. I had several Saturn S cars and one did have a bad convertor and had no power all the time.
I do see how you can think that and i would do had it not been for his comment about it coming and going and the CEL. Hopefully we will know the root cause soon.
The car has a plugged up catalytic converter. I can tell from here.
No I don't think so in this case because he said the car runs fine after clearing the code. Usually a CAT converter will clog and you won't have power even after clearing the code. I had several Saturn S cars and one did have a bad convertor and had no power all the time.
I do see how you can think that and i would do had it not been for his comment about it coming and going and the CEL. Hopefully we will know the root cause soon.
Well today I replaced the tensioner, idler pulley and the belt and went for a drive. Same symptoms as before. I then swapped in the spare PCM I have and that didn't change anything either. I put back in the original PCM then I plugged in the old Knock Sensor and just zip tied it out of the way and as expected the code changed to P0327, but didn't have time to drive enough to see if symptoms improved.. I'm sort of my wits end on this I can't hear any other noises. I don't think the cat is clogged even when its bogging if I get it over 3500 RPM it pulls hard. Any thoughts on what to try next?
Do you know what brand of replacement knock sensor you have? It is possible to get faulty replacements.
The next thing i would do is a compression check. In case the timing chain has jumped a tooth.
The next thing i would do is a compression check. In case the timing chain has jumped a tooth.
Originally Posted By: QuOk
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Replace coolant sensor in head, also check/clean ignition coil mounting area for corrosion..
Thats posted as my quote , but its not mine.
The coolant temp sensor is a good suggestion, though the op states he has the brass ETCS. A 97 model never came with a brass one, so its been replaced at least once. In this case i think with out any misfire, that the coils are ok.
Again, I'd do a compression check to see what it is, and if it indicates a jumped timing chain. If all 4 cylinders are about the same but low, that would be an indication. Especially if they don't go up much after a recheck with a tablespoon of oil added to each cylinder.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Replace coolant sensor in head, also check/clean ignition coil mounting area for corrosion..
Thats posted as my quote , but its not mine.
The coolant temp sensor is a good suggestion, though the op states he has the brass ETCS. A 97 model never came with a brass one, so its been replaced at least once. In this case i think with out any misfire, that the coils are ok.
Again, I'd do a compression check to see what it is, and if it indicates a jumped timing chain. If all 4 cylinders are about the same but low, that would be an indication. Especially if they don't go up much after a recheck with a tablespoon of oil added to each cylinder.
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My mom used to have a 1996 Saturn that saw very limited use, low miles. This was years ago so I forget what code it threw but it was also hesitating. Took it to the Saturn dealer and they put in new plugs, wires, diagnostic fees, etc. The bill was not cheap. The code came back then they suggested using some fuel system cleaner. Which back then was only a buck or two. That took care of the code and it was fine till it was traded in.
I actually seafoamed the intake yesterday and have berryman's in the tank. I think its better but will report back after a couple tanks of gas.. If this fixes it I'm going to be pleased and ticked I didn't try it first.. haha If this doesn't work I'll check the compression, but I don't see how a compression problem could go away with me resetting the computer as this problem seems to.
Ohh one last thought. Have you paid attention to how the automatic transmission shifts? It may be starting out in second gear. When it runs like a dog, count the shifts from a dead stop. There are a few things that can cause the trans to start out in 2nd or 3rd. Ususally you get a different code though.
The car has a 5-speed.. Well 150 miles after seafoaming the intake the code has not returned (was coming back on within 10 miles) but the symptoms remain.. I am going to go for a quick drive with the front O2 sensor removed to see if that makes any difference (I don't have a exhaust back pressure gauge) when I get a chance and go from there. Car still runs nearly normally until it warms up and seems to pull fine over 3500 rpm. Just hesitates and is extremely sluggish in the normal power band 1500-2500 rpms..
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