2012 Hyundai Accent SE Code P0326

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I keep forgetting I have access to some experts on this forum. Please answer only if you have had experience with this issue on a car like mine or similar Hyundai/Kia vehicle. We are getting an intermittent CEL. It stays off more than it stays on, but the stored code is P0326 (knock sensor). On Hyundai forums I have seen that there was a recall on this vehicle for something to do with the knock sensor. I contact a local Hyundai dealer and confirmed that this car that we bought in 2016 had the service earlier that year. Since most of the Hyundai forum people said that they just replaced the sensort that is what I did. I bought the OEM quality sensor on Rock Auto for almost $50 and changed it yesterday. The CEL came back on.

What else can I do? Since it doesn't seem to affect driveability or fuel economy I don't think it is indicative of a critical failure, but a CEL is never a good thing and we will have to reset it for the car to pass inspection. Has anyone else dealt with this issue and resolved it successfully?

Thank you for your time.
 
Interesting thought and I should have included that in the OP. The car has 95,000 miles on it.
 
I would disconnect the battery overnight and see if it comes back after that. From what I've experienced with knock sensors (albeit in Nissan Maximas), the light will stay on until you've driven long enough for the computer to reset itself or you force it to by disconnecting the battery. It's free and easy enough, so it's worth a shot.
 
I would check the wiring for the knock sensor. could be corrosion caused by moisture somewhere causing the sensor to give a false reading/short.

Since you are not having issues operating the car, that rules out the PCM. And you have replaced the sensor so the only thing I can think of that would cause it would be corrosion/moisture in the wiring/connectors or a short/ground in the knock sensor wiring.
 
The sensor "reprogramming" is to detect knock not only from low-octane combustion, but also the connecting rods.

Originally Posted by DBMaster
I don't think it is indicative of a critical failure,....


I don't see how you can rule this out!!! It very well might be!
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
The sensor "reprogramming" is to detect knock not only from low-octane combustion, but also the connecting rods.

Originally Posted by DBMaster
I don't think it is indicative of a critical failure,....


I don't see how you can rule this out!!! It very well might be!


Precisely, if the code is set consistently despite new knock sensor, it just might be detecting knock.
 
Even if it detects knock isn't that what it's supposed to do? It's supposed to use that data to adjust timing, not to set the CEL. I was hoping that someone here experienced this issue. I appreciate the input, but suppositions aren't what I am was looking for. I'm looking for actual experience.
 
Did you tighten the sensor to specs ? Some could be finicky with that.

Sorry stupid question, but does the car run fine ? Like smooth and everything ? No special connecting rod knock, piston slap, valve noise, etc ?

Do you have access to a scanner with live data ? If yes I'd try to see if you can provoke fake knock with a screwdriver handle (for ex) and see if the sensor registers them. Then +1 checking the harness, also the recall notice maybe ? Maybe there was more than a bad sensor to the recall?
 
Access to the bolt holding the sensor to the block was quite limited. I was able to remove it with a 1/4" drive socket wrench. I tightened it by feel so if there was a torque spec I wouldn't have been able to do it, anyway. The engine does not make knocking noises that I've noticed, nor have I ever even heard preignition ping. I do have a scanner that displays live data and I may try what you suggest regarding the simulated knock. Thank you for the suggestions.
 
There's a software update available for this issue. IIRC it was actually a campaign, not just a TSB.

I believe there was a campaign around 2015/16, but there may be a second one that is more recent.

Check the VIN on the hyundai website to see if the vehicle has any open campaigns.

If not, I would use the Genuine Hyundai sensor. I have never had success with non-OE sensors for critical engine functions.
 
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No open campaigns. The local dealer said that the vehicle had whatever knock sensor service was required in 2016.
 
With the new sensor the CEL stays on all the time. With the old one it stayed off most of the time. I guess, for now, I'm probably going to put the old one back on.
 
Here's a discussion of the issue on one of my Hyundai forums. Says theres a softwre update and to use the 2015 TSB

[Linked Image]



https://www.hyundai-forums.com/rb-2...-update-ping-acceleration-issue-fix.html
 
I put the original sensor back on the car. It was Hitachi branded and not Hyundai branded, but the CEL has stayed off for a couple of days now which was not the case with the replacement SMP sensor. The car passed inspection today with no issues. I am still in the process of verifying with a local Hyundai dealer whether or not the car has had the TSB applied. If it hasn't I'm going to get it done. Thank you to all who replied.
 
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I put the original sensor back on the car. It was Hitachi branded and not Hyundai branded, but the CEL has stayed off for a couple of days now which was not the case with the replacement SMP sensor. The car passed inspection today with no issues. I am still in the process of verifying with a local Hyundai dealer whether or not the car has had the TSB applied. If it hasn't I'm going to get it done. Thank you to all who replied.

SMP....that's your problem.
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I put the original sensor back on the car. It was Hitachi branded and not Hyundai branded, but the CEL has stayed off for a couple of days now which was not the case with the replacement SMP sensor. The car passed inspection today with no issues. I am still in the process of verifying with a local Hyundai dealer whether or not the car has had the TSB applied. If it hasn't I'm going to get it done. Thank you to all who replied.

SMP....that's your problem.


They don't make decent parts anymore? It appears that I only paid about $42 for it. I tried for the first time ever to set up a return with Rock Auto. As soon as I clicked that it had been installed on the car it was deemed "not returnable." RA has no customer service phone number and no way that I can figure out how to actually email a live human to tell them the thing is no good and they should let me return it. I could just call it a lesson about how I should never buy anything on RA that I might have to return.
 
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by DBMaster
I put the original sensor back on the car. It was Hitachi branded and not Hyundai branded, but the CEL has stayed off for a couple of days now which was not the case with the replacement SMP sensor. The car passed inspection today with no issues. I am still in the process of verifying with a local Hyundai dealer whether or not the car has had the TSB applied. If it hasn't I'm going to get it done. Thank you to all who replied.

SMP....that's your problem.


They don't make decent parts anymore? It appears that I only paid about $42 for it. I tried for the first time ever to set up a return with Rock Auto. As soon as I clicked that it had been installed on the car it was deemed "not returnable." RA has no customer service phone number and no way that I can figure out how to actually email a live human to tell them the thing is no good and they should let me return it. I could just call it a lesson about how I should never buy anything on RA that I might have to return.


I got an email address for RA in another thread and was able to process and ship the sensor back. Lesson learned on this item.
 
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