Tapping/knocking sound immediately after oil change. Rod knock, piston slap, valve train ticking, or else?

TumblrDucks

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This is very embarrassing. I have ran Valvoline’s new 5w-30 oil for 3k miles and changed it with same oil but 0w-20. As soon as I start my car I know something is wrong. There is a tapping/knocking noise from the back of engine.
This is what my engine used to sound:
Good engine sound
Here’s what I have now:
Bad engine sound

So far I have ran 300 more miles with this noise. This slight “knock” can be heard regardless engine is cold or hot; however sometime it will decide to go away and come back tomorrow. The engine didn’t consume oil or have other symptoms. Hyundai’s updated knocking sensor should catch rod knock but so far it’s none. What could be the problem?
I’m going to get some 40 weight High Mileage oil try to quiet it down. Guess I have to be a thickie for the theta2 from now on lol.

Thanks.
 
@TumblrDucks

What vehicle is this? Year/Make/Model?

What oil does it call for? Water under the bridge, but if it ran fine before the change, and made noise right after, why did you drive it?

A 20 WT oil should not (I believe it should not).. cause noise like this immediately.

It sounds like every rod has a slight knock, with OE bearing clearance, or every valve lifter/lash adjuster.

Are you sure it's 0W-20?

With a noise like that, it sounds like it doesn't have oil but no way you could drive 300 miles like that

Any oil pressure warming lights when going around turns?

This is definitely an odd scenario.
It’s Hyundai sonata hybrid with Theta 2 MPI version, calls for 5w20/30. I see QSFS oil bottle says 0w20 and 5w20 is interchangeable so I run 0w20 sometimes.
No oil pressure warning. Everything’s looks as usual except the noise.
I previously run different brand of 0w20 with no issue. Will try swapping a filter from a genuine source and see if anything changes. Thank you
 
Doesn't sound like a rod knock. Especially since it is all the time and not just of decel. Since you changed two things on this, start there first. One is the filter. Replace it first. Two, the oil. 0w-20. It does not go with Theta 2.4L which calls for a 5w-30 oil. Check that filter closely, they like to clone those for some reason. When you bought them, did they have plastic covering the open part of the filter? If not, probably counterfeit.

While technically expired, probably due to the complimentary part, here is the TSB on oil for this engine:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163868-9999.pdf
God I should stick with good old green bottle… Thanks
 
Last edited:
Update:
I think my motor is shot.
So this time I pick QSFS high Mileage 5W30. According to UOA, this oil is a thick 30 weight with good HTHS value and load with moly. Also grab an OEM filter from AutoZone.
My hypothesis is this oil may just be loud or filter is defective.
engine with new oil old filter
To prove the first one, I drained used oil from the pan and old filter, pour new oil in and fill the same oil filter, then start the engine. The "knock" is still there. Now my first hypo is shot, it's not Valvoline's fault.

Then to test defective filter theory, I took old filter down, drained it and use some of its oil to lube gasket on the new one. This is what I noticed:
IMG_0689.jpg

It's sad to see metal shavings coming from center of a filter. Not sure how these shavings bypass the filter materials. Also a surprise for me to find actual damage. I used to believe if manual says 5w20 is ok then 20 weight should all be fine, but here we are with the damage. And the motor still eats itself even with frequent OCI and giant oil performance leap from GF4 to DexOS Gen 3. What can I say?

With new filter, the knock sound now is slightly muffled.
engine with new oil new filter

Slightly good news is the car is in class action lawsuit's 150k mileage limit, so I still have the chance to get a new short block.
Any suggestions on what to do next?
 
Just take it to the dealer saying you have a bad sounding engine noise and that you took it in immediately. The problem is that the stealer can and will deny your warranty and blame your oil choice if they see it's brand new. I'd actually suggest putting a bit of the old used oil to make it look like it's been in there for 2-3k miles. If they see fresh clean oil they'll say it's suspicious and give you the run around.
 
Update:
I think my motor is shot.
So this time I pick QSFS high Mileage 5W30. According to UOA, this oil is a thick 30 weight with good HTHS value and load with moly. Also grab an OEM filter from AutoZone.
My hypothesis is this oil may just be loud or filter is defective.
engine with new oil old filter
To prove the first one, I drained used oil from the pan and old filter, pour new oil in and fill the same oil filter, then start the engine. The "knock" is still there. Now my first hypo is shot, it's not Valvoline's fault.

Then to test defective filter theory, I took old filter down, drained it and use some of its oil to lube gasket on the new one. This is what I noticed:
View attachment 229148
It's sad to see metal shavings coming from center of a filter. Not sure how these shavings bypass the filter materials. Also a surprise for me to find actual damage. I used to believe if manual says 5w20 is ok then 20 weight should all be fine, but here we are with the damage. And the motor still eats itself even with frequent OCI and giant oil performance leap from GF4 to DexOS Gen 3. What can I say?

With new filter, the knock sound now is slightly muffled.
engine with new oil new filter

Slightly good news is the car is in class action lawsuit's 150k mileage limit, so I still have the chance to get a new short block.
Any suggestions on what to do next?
Can you cut open that filter to see what it caught?.
 
Just take it to the dealer saying you have a bad sounding engine noise and that you took it in immediately. The problem is that the stealer can and will deny your warranty and blame your oil choice if they see it's brand new. I'd actually suggest putting a bit of the old used oil to make it look like it's been in there for 2-3k miles. If they see fresh clean oil they'll say it's suspicious and give you the run around.
Yeah it would be a little tricky to get approved for new short block, as most cases the rod has already been thrown or it's a really bad knocking and limping. I got an appointment in this week and see what the dealer will say.
 
Are you sure it wasn't crisco? Did you remove the foil before you poured the oil in?If you bought the oil from WM, Orielys or Autozone, it may have been a returned jug. I ran into this twice buying oil for the Cobalt I used to maintain at WM. I never left the store. It was caught immediately.
 
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