Talk to me about "slotting" struts?

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Jun 25, 2014
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I got some serious negative camber in a '14 Nissan Versa note. Alignment shop said I needed slotted struts, or new struts. (250k on struts)... they talked about grinding out my struts to slot them. However the consensus was my struts are worn causing the negative camber.

I can spend 5 biggies and have new struts put on, but what then if they need slotted? (no aftermarket slotted struts available) the radiator support got bent up, I could have a bent strut tower or frame, which would put the vehicle in "cost of repair exceeds value of vehicle"
 
At 250K throw them in the bin. Put new struts in with a camber bolt. Even cheap FCS are better than ones with 250K on them, you can probably get away with under $200.


 
Rockauto.com - the first item under Suspension tab is "Alignment bolt"

KYB struts are $49 each (don't forget to use a 5% discount code). Plus install obviously. Worn struts should not affect your camber angle. More likely other worn components or collision damage
 
Had no ideal a camber bolt was available!!! Or even existed, I've only seen straight bolts, now I'm guessing your supposed to use these in the upper bolt, or can you use two and get like over 2 degrees of adjustment?
 
I service a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and this vehicle technically has no camber adjustment. There is enough play in the strut bolts that adjustment is possible to keep the numbers within specification. It might take some discussion with the person doing the alignment but it's possible that your vehicle is the same way. It doesn't take much to change the camber a few degrees.
 
Rockauto.com - the first item under Suspension tab is "Alignment bolt"

KYB struts are $49 each (don't forget to use a 5% discount code). Plus install obviously. Worn struts should not affect your camber angle. More likely other worn components or collision damage
Why would you just use a strut and keep the spring and mount that also have 250K on them? For $73 you get the whole thing and a quick install job. This is an old car with collision damage I am guessing he just wants to keep going for a while.
 
Had no ideal a camber bolt was available!!! Or even existed, I've only seen straight bolts, now I'm guessing your supposed to use these in the upper bolt, or can you use two and get like over 2 degrees of adjustment?
They have them up to 1.75 degrees which should be fine, it will leave you with -0.25 which is okay. Use it in the upper bolt position.
 
Why would you just use a strut and keep the spring and mount that also have 250K on them? For $73 you get the whole thing and a quick install job. This is an old car with collision damage I am guessing he just wants to keep going for a while.

Same reason you recommend the $95 OEM motor mount when that $23 Anchor/DEA/eBay/whatever plain white box mount is so tempting. A while back I did some reading on those inexpensive struts on RockAuto for my budget-conscious neighbor. I don't remember specifics but I went away knowing I was not interested in them. Can't remember the name brand, Maybe OCS, maybe something else. If you've had good experiences with them, that's good to know and I put more faith in that than 20 anonymous guys on the internet.

Same reason I don't "tune up" a car by tossing and all the original Denso ignition coils in the trash and putting new ultra power coils on it because they are only $17 a piece.

My preference is to retain the factory springs. Rarely do I see cars with sagging springs. But what I do seem to notice is cars with funky stances due to what I assume are quick struts. While I do dig a 60s era, solid front axle gasser drag car with its nose to the sky, it's just not a good look for a 2003 Honda Accord.

An actual Shop with a proper wall mounted spring compressor can swap out a strut like a Nascar pit crew changes a tire. (Slight exaggeration). The strut assembly is coming off the car regardless.

Years back, I put some clearance Gabriel (I know they're no good) assemblies on a friends Sienna minivan. I was embarrassed by the +1.5" increase in ride height over factory. I think it may have eventually settled down a little bit. It was a beater and just got a tape measure alignment so no big deal.

This is all speculation when we don't know the actual condition or intended use of the original poster's Nissan. I have a car with 700k - runs and drives essentially like new. I don't automatically view 250k as nearing end-of-life. At around 400k I replaced the front strut/spring assemblies with some off a very low miles wreck (OEM). The originals I took off were totally fine, not leaking, so naturally I could tell no difference with the fresh ones. Still sports the factory rear shocks.

Just my anecdotal experiences, of course YMMV.
 
Same reason you recommend the $95 OEM motor mount when that $23 Anchor/DEA/eBay/whatever plain white box mount is so tempting. A while back I did some reading on those inexpensive struts on RockAuto for my budget-conscious neighbor. I don't remember specifics but I went away knowing I was not interested in them. Can't remember the name brand, Maybe OCS, maybe something else. If you've had good experiences with them, that's good to know and I put more faith in that than 20 anonymous guys on the internet.

Same reason I don't "tune up" a car by tossing and all the original Denso ignition coils in the trash and putting new ultra power coils on it because they are only $17 a piece.

My preference is to retain the factory springs. Rarely do I see cars with sagging springs. But what I do seem to notice is cars with funky stances due to what I assume are quick struts. While I do dig a 60s era, solid front axle gasser drag car with its nose to the sky, it's just not a good look for a 2003 Honda Accord.

An actual Shop with a proper wall mounted spring compressor can swap out a strut like a Nascar pit crew changes a tire. (Slight exaggeration). The strut assembly is coming off the car regardless.

Years back, I put some clearance Gabriel (I know they're no good) assemblies on a friends Sienna minivan. I was embarrassed by the +1.5" increase in ride height over factory. I think it may have eventually settled down a little bit. It was a beater and just got a tape measure alignment so no big deal.

This is all speculation when we don't know the actual condition or intended use of the original poster's Nissan. I have a car with 700k - runs and drives essentially like new. I don't automatically view 250k as nearing end-of-life. At around 400k I replaced the front strut/spring assemblies with some off a very low miles wreck (OEM). The originals I took off were totally fine, not leaking, so naturally I could tell no difference with the fresh ones. Still sports the factory rear shocks.

Just my anecdotal experiences, of course YMMV.
First thing is you cant tell the condition of a shock or strut by any visual signs other than leakage. Just because it is dry and passes the hand up and down test tells you almost nothing. The other thing is he lives a salt belt area, at 200K there is a chance of a broken spring not just sagging and you never reuse a mount with that many miles on it.

The USA is far behind the times for whatever reason with proper testing leaving the owner open to scams or replacing good parts or not replacing bad parts. There is overwhelming evidence that even with good roads that 60-100K is more than enough to drop shock/strut performance down to the magic 70% level which is the level that braking performance is impaired by worn shocks/struts.
Brake testing and proper headlight aim is another sore spot that are not being tested US shops and dealers.
This is the only way to do it (shocks can be removed and put on an off the car machine but that is way too much work).
No offense to you but guys need to stop with this fuzzy backyard testing that cannot be verified.





 
How's the valving?
I’m not a scientist or anything but I’d say they give a smooth, but controlled ride. Take the edge off bumps a lot better than the KYB stuff for example. I like KYB, and use them on my accord and Tacoma, but certainly a different ride quality. The Gabriel ultra seem to hold up nicely and ride well without floaty feeling. The sequoia had some cheap sensen stuff on it when I got it. Brand new but they felt terrible. Swapped for Gabriel ultra and I’m very happy. Used them on several other vehicles including a lowered 64 Chevy truck and stock 07 Honda Pilot.
 
Why would you just use a strut and keep the spring and mount that also have 250K on them? For $73 you get the whole thing and a quick install job. This is an old car with collision damage I am guessing he just wants to keep going for a while.
I agree with the quick strut idea but i do know that many vehicles have springs that are designed for the trim level of the vehicle. They usually have paint marks on them that you can cross reference with the oem when selecting replacement springs from the dealer so you get the same ride quality and height and load capacity. Where as the quick struts will have a more generic spring that will fit a bunch of models. but on a 250k versa anything's an improvement :ROFLMAO:
 
5 minutes with a file and any strut is now slotted. Same with holes in the strut towers in the car if more is needed. I've done both with no issues I could tell.
How did you pinch the strut towers together? In my Neon the driver side strut tower moved up on a hit hard enough to bend my seat rails.... And that was only 3/8" not really enough to matter for alignment even.
 
ORIGINAL POSTER:
I agree that my struts and springs are shot.
but seems to me there is something else not right. Like HOW DO I HAVE OUTSIDE TIRE WEAR with major NEGATIVE CAMBER? (this is only happening on the drivers side, same side that rad support got all mangled)

Seems to me it should be wearing on the INSIDE edge tire wear, not the outside. Can anyone explain this?
I got the camber bolts ordered.
 
ORIGINAL POSTER:
I agree that my struts and springs are shot.
but seems to me there is something else not right. Like HOW DO I HAVE OUTSIDE TIRE WEAR with major NEGATIVE CAMBER? (this is only happening on the drivers side, same side that rad support got all mangled)

Seems to me it should be wearing on the INSIDE edge tire wear, not the outside. Can anyone explain this?
I got the camber bolts ordered.
Could the tire be scrubbing due to too much toe-in?
 
Could the tire be scrubbing due to too much toe-in?
I just had it aligned 900 miles back, and he said he was able to get it "in spec" except for camber. Found some Quick Struts on RockAuto, going to install them with camber bolts and replace that tire. We will see if that stops it.
 
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