Synthetic oils future?

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Will more oil companies that produce synthetic oil in Group4 and Group5 convert to the more cheaper Group3 in the future.Group3 oils come very close in performace to Group4.Joe
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If Mobil 1 really is partially Gr.III now they should lower the price. M1 is nearly 6 bucks a quart at WM while PP is 4 bucks. I won't be using M1 anymore at that price.
 
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Will more oil companies that produce synthetic oil in Group4 and Group5 convert to the more cheaper Group3 in the future.Group3 oils come very close in performace to Group4.Joe
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There really aren't that many left. See my post about which oils are still synthetic. Last I looked it was Amsoil, Redline, GC, and a couple Torco. Someone said RP is but I don't know if that's true.
 
Group 4 PAO is still produced in the same amounts but it is being used in the Europe market where syn means syn not group 3.
 
You can buy Rotella 5W40 for 4 bucks at WM also.
That's very good stuff in my experience, GIII XVHI or whatever it is.
 
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Group 4 PAO is still produced in the same amounts but it is being used in the Europe market where syn means syn not group 3.




Actually an european member here mentioned before that it is no guarantee that european synthetics are all group IV and V.

I got an info last year from other forums which suggested that oils must be group IV and/or V to meet BMW LL-01. If we take Castrol as an example, the only oils meet BMW-LL-01 are

Castrol SLX Longtec 0W-30(Castrol EDGE 0W-30 )
Castrol Formula RS 0W-40 (Castrol EDGE Sport 0W-40 )(Castrol Edge 0W-40 meets ACEA A3/B3/B4
and is closely related to SLX Longtec)

so these two are very possible group IV, V synthetic.

Other Castrol "synthetic" such as 5W30 and 10W60 are likely group III.

Please correct me if I am wrong.
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In the past several months, in one of Terry Dyson's replies, he made a statement something to the effect: The differences between conventional and synthetic oils are almost, or will soon be, almost non-existent. No one seemed to pick up on that statement.

I don't know if he was refering to chemistry, performance, or both, but his revelation seems to be playing itself out.
 
With the ever increasingly stringent specifications on oil true dino is a thing of the past anyway. ConocoPhillips acknowledged that and dropped the Conventional formulation entirely. So as the requirement get closer and closer to full synthetic oil then the difference and advantages of a full syn become smaller and smaller. Then the fun begins will we start exceeding the abilities of cracked Dino and resort to Group 4,5,&6 again. Time will tell.
 
That's a good point that the requirements for dino mean increasingly the oils are GrII, II+, and III.
 
I think I'll just buy oil based on the asthetics of the bottle.
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I like PP and GC bottles.

But seriously I think that Motul, Amsoil, and Redline will stay Pure Syn for at least a couple of years. I'm sure with the expertice on the board we'll smell out the Exxon type rats.
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Unless you go for then new big 3 Amsoil, Motul, and Redline (Alphabalitical order) Bottle aesthetics are as good as any reason for buying the rest.
 
Group IV and V will last further down the OCI road. They are more stable, can take Oxidation and Nitration effects better, flow at lower cold numbers, have a higher sheer strength of oil film, etc, etc....a few more company's linger out there that have group V...Neo is one of them.

When a group III can do 15K OCI's I will be convinced that the table has turned!
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No problem.

As far as group IV and V oils go there are others such as Greddy which I can not remember seeing discussed but hey what do you want. Not like you can goto Wally's World or what not to get it.
 
It seems to me that most cars/trucks these days come with either an OLM or a specific OCI such as 3,5,7,10 thousand miles - whatever. There are very few of these vehicles that have OLMs calibrated for synthetic oil. Except for things like 'Vets and a few Euros, they are calibrated for dino. And for those without OLMs, the owner's manual OCIs based on mileage/time factors are also almost always for dino use, not synthetic.

I understand there may be certain very severe conditions or useage that might stress regular oil too much for the intervals suggested by the car makers. Usually, the OLM will track such conditons and/or the manual will specify different OCIs for listed factors that are considered "severe". But unless those conditions are present, why not use the weight and type oil the manufacturer recommends and change the oil out per the instructions? You sure won't run into any warranty problems this way.

I see no real reason for synthetic oil unless a vehicle is truly in "severe" use or you just want to extend drains beyond the recommended OCIs. And by "severe" use I mean things like constant, heavy towing that impacts on engine load, living in the North Pole and driving two miles to work each day - that sort of thing. Driving in normal conditions the today's top brand dino oil should do just fine. Checking things out now and then with a UOA is always a good idea to be sure the OLM is not lying to you or to see if you need to shorten (or possibly increase) the recommended change interval. Bottom line is if dino packs keep advancing as they have been, I see no future for synthetics beyond a rather limited client base.
 
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