Is there any reason why I can't use 10W30 synthetic oil in a Harbor Freight McGraw 20-gallon air compressor. It calls for 30 weight non detergent oil.
Synthetic oil in an air compressor
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After 50 hrs on a new compressor changed to 30 wt Campbell Hausfeld syn. Several years and at least 150 hrs later oil looks good in sight glass. Compressor is 5HP V twin which cools better than a single block IMHO.
I think I will get a bottle of Royal Purple synthetic compressor oil in 30 weight and use that.
Seems like overkill but if it makes you sleep better at night rock on.
I use Sanborn conventional oil in my Sanborn compressor from Menards. 10+ years and she still runs great. It’s readily available at my local Menards and is rather inexpensive.
Just my $0.02
Any non-detergent 30-weight would be fine, seriously. Nothing magical happening inside that HF compressor, just a bunch of moving parts (no combustion) that need oil splashed around.
If you lived somewhere very cold in winter and the air compressor were located in an unheated/detached garage, maybe there would be a benefit to a synthetic compressor oil. In Tennessee, I don't think it's necessary.
I presently run Mobil Rarus 427 in my cheap compressors (similar to yours) which is nothing but an ISO 100 lubricant designed for the task. Before that, I ran the cheapest store-brand non-detergent 30 weight I could find. They've been running strong for 8-9 years now.
If you lived somewhere very cold in winter and the air compressor were located in an unheated/detached garage, maybe there would be a benefit to a synthetic compressor oil. In Tennessee, I don't think it's necessary.
I presently run Mobil Rarus 427 in my cheap compressors (similar to yours) which is nothing but an ISO 100 lubricant designed for the task. Before that, I ran the cheapest store-brand non-detergent 30 weight I could find. They've been running strong for 8-9 years now.
Non Detergent only, Foaming isn't the only concern, You want contaminates to drop out of suspension......Most motor oils are designed to keep contaminates in suspension.
I'm running Redline 30W/ISO100 PolyComp synthetic in my 43 year old 5 horse Kellogg-American, Can't tell a difference between the it & the 30W-ND Valvoline I was running.....
I'm running Redline 30W/ISO100 PolyComp synthetic in my 43 year old 5 horse Kellogg-American, Can't tell a difference between the it & the 30W-ND Valvoline I was running.....
When I was tossing around the idea of buying little compressor I was told two things, get one the requires oil lubrication and use a dedicated compressor oil.
I get Ingersoll Rand at a fair price at TSC.
I get Ingersoll Rand at a fair price at TSC.
Been running this in my 7.5hp C/H compressor for few year previously it was using Royal Purple it was ok until it got cold weather temp starting it hated it.
If I was goin the ordering route I absolutely would use it over the RP.
https://www.portlandcompressor.com/store/jenny-emglo-air-compressor-oil-1-quart
http://www.jennyproductsinc.com/manuals/UBCPOSpec.pdf
If I was goin the ordering route I absolutely would use it over the RP.
https://www.portlandcompressor.com/store/jenny-emglo-air-compressor-oil-1-quart
http://www.jennyproductsinc.com/manuals/UBCPOSpec.pdf
I have a small portable compressor Porter Cable, it calls for 15W-50 M1. It's been a workhorse. Nearly 20 years of trouble free operation.
Thanks everyone. Appreciate the answers.
Why would a detergent oil foam up in a compressor but not in an engine?
Subscribed. From my experience, when I changed the unknown oil in our compressor after several years and I noticed it was still clean. I used SAE 30 ND and after a few years of very little use, that oil had turned cloudy/milky so I changed it. Three months later it still looked clean but I changed it again with the same SAE 30 ND, as a precaution to flush out any remaining oil. Three months ago, I changed the oil again, this time, to a 0w-20 engine oil to see if there would be a visual difference after three months, which is slotted for September 2022.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Mine has never turned milky looking, I have M1 0W-40 in it, and have for about the last 10 years.
Depending on the duty cycle of the air compressor, as well as the type of air compressor it is, engine oils should not be used.
Reciprocating air compressors are not as “sealed” as something such as an engine. Which means you can have slow leak down. This can cause varnish build up around the compressor valves. Best case, you get leak downs. Worse case, you get a fire.
Finding an R&O 100 or R&O 150 for air compressors is not that hard. If you need the cold flow, several companies offer the above in a synthetic or pao version.
Finding it in small quantities may be more difficult, but still do able.
Reciprocating air compressors are not as “sealed” as something such as an engine. Which means you can have slow leak down. This can cause varnish build up around the compressor valves. Best case, you get leak downs. Worse case, you get a fire.
Finding an R&O 100 or R&O 150 for air compressors is not that hard. If you need the cold flow, several companies offer the above in a synthetic or pao version.
Finding it in small quantities may be more difficult, but still do able.
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Picked up a bottle of Royal Purple this morning. It should work out just fine.
Royal Purple® Synfilm® Recip. 100 is recommended for lubrication of reciprocating air compressors (piston type) that specify a SAE 30 or a “non-detergent” 30 weight oil. Synfilm Recip. 100 is a long life, high film strength, energy efficient, synthetic lubricant that significantly increases the reliability and efficiency of reciprocating air compressors. It excels at reducing wear and keeping discharge valves free of harmful carbon deposits. Synfilm Recip. 100 forms a better seal and reduces friction between the cylinder wall and piston rings for greater compressor efficiency. It is formulated with Royal Purple’s unique, proprietary Synerlec®additive technology, which is proven to make equipment run smoother, cooler, quieter, longer and more efficiently.
Royal Purple® Synfilm® Recip. 100 is recommended for lubrication of reciprocating air compressors (piston type) that specify a SAE 30 or a “non-detergent” 30 weight oil. Synfilm Recip. 100 is a long life, high film strength, energy efficient, synthetic lubricant that significantly increases the reliability and efficiency of reciprocating air compressors. It excels at reducing wear and keeping discharge valves free of harmful carbon deposits. Synfilm Recip. 100 forms a better seal and reduces friction between the cylinder wall and piston rings for greater compressor efficiency. It is formulated with Royal Purple’s unique, proprietary Synerlec®additive technology, which is proven to make equipment run smoother, cooler, quieter, longer and more efficiently.
Lots of good info here. You ended up making a good choice. An ISO 100 oil based on ester is what you want if you are looking for the best choice for the compressor. Motor oils no not necessarily foam in compressors. More likely than not in an instance like that you would be seeing additives that do not like each other because you chose a different oil type. If you were to run that oil for a short duration and change it any foaming issues would follow that oil to the waste container. The primary reason it is not a good idea to run engine oils in a recip compressor is that when you do the oil’s additives will end up depositing on the valves simply from the heat of compression. You do not want detergents as you are compressing air not powering a cylinder and needing to deal with the byproducts from combustion.
Of course there are thousands of people that have put motor oils in a compressor that sees light duty and will report “no issues”. The more severe the service the more important it is to adhere to the correct choice.
Of course there are thousands of people that have put motor oils in a compressor that sees light duty and will report “no issues”. The more severe the service the more important it is to adhere to the correct choice.