I've ran Rotella T6 in just about everything I've owned for at least 15 years. From 1300cc sportbikes, supercharged WaveRunners, 4 stroke outboards, zero-turns, lawnmowers, and diesel trucks. I've never had a problem with it.
Synthetic oil bad in a lawnmower? Any truth in this self proclaimed experts statements?
- Thread starter 350Rocket
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My old Sears Mower has been using my left-over Full synthetic top off oil for 15 years now. Doesn't seem to be an issue!
I'm having a hard time believing that ANY motor oil is "bad" for a lawnmower. Especially considering that most of them see about as many oil changes, as people who live in Greenland see Sunburn.
Some people can't see the forrest for the trees, and the simple concept that "oil is oil". Sure there are super blends, and racing oil and all that, but in a regularly available PCMO, it doesn't matter if it's syn or not, in fact a lot of newer blends of dino oil have to have some syn to make specifications. All this hooey about not using syn to breakin an engine, garbage, lots of new cars come with syn from the factory, every heard of a Corvette? and there's lots more. Can't switch back and forth from dino to syn, more garbage, I've done it for years and I know that's not a scientific study, but there are literally millions of folks doing it ever day. In fact, you can make the argument that syn is "better" for mowers, because of it's heat resistance, but again, look at how many mowers run for years on Dollar Store oil that never get changed.
Use what you like, what your'e comfortable spending and what you believe in, no problem, but don't think that you're going to get ten more years out of your mower because you use "any" certain oil.
Use what you like, what your'e comfortable spending and what you believe in, no problem, but don't think that you're going to get ten more years out of your mower because you use "any" certain oil.
Been running synthetic in my Honda GCV160 lawnmower for 15 years. It still runs like a top and oil drains clean at the end of the season.
The "use conventional for break-in" talk is mostly because it is less expensive. Do multiple changes during initial break-in with inexpensive conventional oil to get the wear materials (glitter) flushed out. Then fill the crankcase with whatever you want for the regular oil change intervals.
The "use conventional for break-in" talk is mostly because it is less expensive. Do multiple changes during initial break-in with inexpensive conventional oil to get the wear materials (glitter) flushed out. Then fill the crankcase with whatever you want for the regular oil change intervals.
I've read several mower manuals , and they all say run a straight wt oil for most conditions. And they last forever. Having any type of oil is better then no oil. Mixing wts or brands don't seem to matter in such simple engines. Oil's that are sold as blends, are a mix or mineral and synthetic oil and seem to work fine. And lets not forget that most residential mowers, don't even come with a drain plug so you can even change the oil. Sure you can turn it upside down, or suck it out the fill tube if you just gotta change it. But most have what the mfgr consider a lifetime fill. just add oil when needed. My oldest mower was made in 1997, and my snowblower was made in 1995. They get whatever I have on hand pretty much all mineral oil, and will probably rot apart before the engine dies.,,
If people read and understood the oil specifications, they would find that Briggs and Stratton and Honda call up 10w30 for most operating conditions and state that any oil meeting the specifications be it mineral, semi synthetic or full synthetic can be used.
Most oil related questions can be resolved by contacting the OEM or well known oil companies and not listen to some moron you tuber.
Most oil related questions can be resolved by contacting the OEM or well known oil companies and not listen to some moron you tuber.
Seriously? I've never owned, or for that matter ever seen a mower, or any other small gas 4-stroke engine without a drain plug. This must be another one of these mechanical advancements coming to us from, "engineers who we should trust because they know so much".... Probably the same idiots who designed BMW's engines with no dipstick.
Most mowers now days show in the user manual to tip the mower and pour the old oil out the fill spout. Mine is almost 20 years old and works this way.
I watched a video a while back where this young kid was demonstrating how to change the oil in his mower by tipping it over. To keep the oil from going everywhere, he just cut the top off a plastic bottle and slide it over the dipstick tube. Being there isn't alot of oil in there when full, it caught all the oil without a mess. He did it over the edge of his cement deck over his grass. I would have just put down some cardboard, or even a pizza box to catch any possible spillage. Then he filled er back up. Probably easier than lifting the mower up, and taking out and replacing the drain plug. No tools needed, except something to cut the plastic bottle.,,,
My Honda doesn't leave a drop on the deck when I turn it sideways to drain. Its actually easier than a drain plug, and less mess.Must be nice using 2 rolls of paper towels when it runs all over the mower deck.
I hold the pan near the spout and don't lose a drop. Easy Peasy.Must be nice using 2 rolls of paper towels when it runs all over the mower deck.
4 oil changes a year? Holy smokes. You’d save so much by just not changing it.
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Probably about 12 dollars. haha