Originally Posted By: Berget
I think I will ditch the M1 0W-40 for something else…
Right now I'm thinking about one of the following:
Option A: Synthetic high milage oil such as Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage 5W-40
Option B: HDEO 10W/15W-40, such as Shell Rotella (or equivalent)
Right now, I leaning towards getting the Valvoline MaxLife 5W-40 for the Impala.
Is there a difference in the oils' capabilities to adhere to the cam lobes during the winter when it's not driven that often? Say one start-up every month, or every other month? I know some of you touched the subject, but are there any solid proofs that one oil sticks to the cam better than another oil?
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
1.) pull a valve cover and look. Easy enough to do, and they are prolly weeping anyway.
We don't know which heads you have on that engine? Generator or alternator? Power steering?
I did pull a valve cover last year, and the rockers etc actually looked decent. Some minor 'sludge', but no solid deposits or other issues.
I don't know the casting number on the heads. Did GM use several casting numbers for the '65 283? It has an alternator and power steering, and I've converted it to a dual-circuit brake system with discs up front and a dual diaphragm booster. Oh, and AWG 1 ground cable from the battery to the block
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
The reason I suggest looking for a nice used 327 is it's prolly one of Chevies best engines and they are getting hard to find. You can't just walk into a wrecking yard and grab a handful of 327's any more. There may be more surviving 283's ... The 327 got bought as a preferred replacement engine for cars/trucks getting long in the tooth, or as kids first hot-rod project many moons ago.
Your cylinder heads may be 1.72" intake valves with 1.50" exhaust. The better flowing 1.94" intake 327 heads were and easy swap on and they look almost identical on the outside. So if you could find a nice used/worn 327 you may get the better heads too
Then during rebuild, you could have hardened valve seats installed and not ever have to worry about valve regression from un-leaded gas.
I have an original carter 4-bbl cast iron intake manifold. I don't need to sell it. But if after playing with old girl some, you want up the anti and HP and find a donor 327, let me know and I'll ship it to you ...
I can't find a 283, or any other American V8 for that matter, on a wrecking yard here so that's not an issue.
If I find myself in need of say a yard-pulled small block or a crate big block, it's going to be shipped in a crate from the states anyway. Hardened valve seats, proper valve guides, roller hydraulic cam, chain oiling mods, roller chain etc, that's all on my 'must-have' list if I rebuild or get a new motor. A 327 would be nice, and I've been looking around for one. If I find someone, I might take you up on that manifold.
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Berget
...
I thought that API SN puts a limit the zinc contents to 800ppm?
Not for 40W's, they can zinc it up all they want!!
Quote:
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Can you get (Euro) Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage 5W-40? It would be perfect for this application IMHO...
Yes, it’s available for about 13$ / quart. What kind of synthetic is that, group III?
I'm not sure but my best guess is that its a blend of Group III/IV with more of the former than latter. So if $13 USD is really steep in Sweden, it might be more expensive than you need. As for being "duel rated", it's rated for gasoline engines, which is all that matters!
$13/quart is a normal price for a blend or cheap synthetic here. I just inserted the price to give you an estimate on the cost. Right now, I'm thinking about going for the MaxLife 5W-40…
Originally Posted By: Trav
Dropping a big block in this body is trade school kids stuff, almost zero fabrication work, that's the way I would go before messing around with small blocks in this size car, its needs a lot of torque to get the old lump shifting.
Big block, 383 small block, 327, 409, blown 350 etc. There are tons of options, but I'm not going down that road just yet. The 283 runs fine, and even though it might lack torque, it keeps the barge at pace with the rest of the traffic
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Well stretching credulity some, let's say the engine wants a thick film when cold and before pumped oil is really circulating. The cam in this motor will have to live on residual cold oil film for a couple of minutes on start-up until the crank can sling enough new oil to replace. In that case 0W
might be a bit thin, but so might 5W ...
283 Chevies from this era started and ran in Wisconsin all through teh 60's and 70's on 10W-30 w/o incident. Lots of them lived on SAE 30 HD as that's is what their buyers had grown up on. Long before synthetics were common, and with ridiculous amounts of VII's in cheap oil. They died not die. This one is still running, apparently well
Wisconsin and Sweden should have about the same starting conditions. Some folks from there should go ask Dad what he put in their old Chevy back then? 10W-30 up to about 100,000 miles and then 10W-40 till it dies was not uncommon. And we are discussing the finer points of 0W vs 5W ...
The recent years' climate change have treated us nice, especially when living close to the coast. Wisconsin actually has a colder climate than where I live. The monthly average temperature during the winter months puts my location in the same region as… Kansas. Not that I'm complaining
But you have a point on that 10W-30 was the go-to oil back in the days.
Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
Agreed. Based on what I've read about Valvoline 5W40 it should be good for his older car.
I'm currently using Penzoil Euro 5W40 in my older USA vehicle. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know a few things. It's working well for me. I'm also considering Shell Rotella T6 5w40 and Valvoline 5W40 for my two older cars.
I avoid 0W40 because I tried Mobil One 0W40 for 10,000 miles. It wasn't good in my older engines because it didn't hold it's viscosity. After about 2500 to 3000 miles the oil pressure dropped slightly, but noticeably. The oil seemed thinner. I change oil every 5000 miles, which is appropriate for my driving style of half city, half highway.
I would avoid any oils starting with 10W, 15W, or 20W oils because in your cold Swedish climate they'd be to thick at cold start, when you have to move the car in Winter, IMO.
Did you do an oil analysis afterwards? Did it shear down to a 0W-30, or even thinner?
I did not do any lab tests on the Mobil One 0W40. My oil pressure became lower after 3000 miles with that oil. I did a Google search and found several people complaining about M1 0W40 having viscosity loss. I assume that's what was going on. I have never had that problem with any brand of 5W40. I run my oil to 5000 miles.
My 99 Jeep and 97 Buick both didn't like M1 0W40 past 3000 miles. It was fine from 0 to 2500 miles, or so. Then around 3000 to 3500 miles I noticed their oil pressures were lower than they used to be.
Both vehicles loved M1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 and now Penzoil Euro 5W40. They have noticeably better oil pressure at full operating temperature to 5000 miles. Then I change oil.