Synthetic Blend Oil
- Thread starter danjak26
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The GM3800 is in the "easy on oil" hall of fame, along with the 5.7L Toyota V8 and many others.
It will go 200k on the cheapest API SH swill you can find if you keep the OCIs reasonable.
It will go 200k on the cheapest API SH swill you can find if you keep the OCIs reasonable.
In certain applications, the benefit of better may never actually be realized. It’s like what’s better 1000 mg or 750 mg of vitamin C? If your body can only absorb 500-600 mg in one dosage then the more is unrealized.
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Schaeffer oil has Group 2 plus with PAO
Everything you said is supposition.
I am in the camp of not actively buying blends, except when on clearance.
98 LeSabre here 3800 v6 series 2 engine.
Car book calls for 10w30 preferred.but 60 degrees F or less 5w30 acceptable.
Why do you want to run 10w40? Too thick ...
Car book calls for 10w30 preferred.but 60 degrees F or less 5w30 acceptable.
Why do you want to run 10w40? Too thick ...
Nothing in this statement makes sense.
What is "group 2 plus"? Someone's new marketing term of a an API group that doesn't exist?
Correct, such a distinction does not exist in the API interchange. However, it is commonly used to designate Group II products that are on the high side of VI for the definition, plus lower contaminates and higher saturation than typical Group II bases. An example is the ISOSYN that Chevron uses.
A better Group II than some others, but still not qualifying for the requirements of a Group III.
That is my analysis from being on here for over 20 years. Most people way overthink oil brands and synthetic vs blends.Is that your analysis based on your 5 months here?
Mt Dad's Le Sabre and my Regal both used 10w30. Both had the 3.8. We used Quaker State or Pennzoil. Dad used reg oil, I used Syn blend. Both were running beautifully when sold. The Regal was sold at 98,000, the le Sabre at ~160,000 (Both miles).
He is quoting the manual.
That's because Ford knows the factory fill will be drained in 500 miles or less. LoL
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This response was part of the comments given to me on my last oil report for my 2023 Harley M8 engine and I quote...
"In our experience, conventional. semi-synthetic, and a full synthetic oils all perform about equally well in this kind of engine"
The things that make one stop and go, Hmmmm? LOL
You boutique oil guys don't shoot the messenger...
Reminds me of the old oil 80's commercial...
I would and have run full synth ~23 years. Semi seems like pinching Pennies for ?
Caveat. Family had a well worn 200k early ‘00’s Grand Cherokee with the wicked Damlier v8. Last few years Full synth even Mobil 1 High Mileage burned about 1qt/1,000 miles Semi cut that by 50%
Caveat. Family had a well worn 200k early ‘00’s Grand Cherokee with the wicked Damlier v8. Last few years Full synth even Mobil 1 High Mileage burned about 1qt/1,000 miles Semi cut that by 50%
Back in the late 90's I was a Mobil 1 fanboy and used it in our 98 Chevy truck and 98 Grand Prix. I noticed after a while that both vehicles were using more oil and that the engines in both were noisier. Both of these vehicles were bought new by us and had low miles at the time. I even took the truck back to the dealer because the engine had developed a tick but they said nothing was wrong.
After about a year I went back to Chevron conventional and in both cases, the oil consumption went down and the engines were not noisy and the tick in the truck went away. I still own the truck to this day and other than some piston slap on a cold startup it still runs quiet.
I never ran Mobil 1 again and have not used a full synthetic again. I use all semi-synthetic oils now and all of the vehicles in my signature I have owned for 19 years or longer and none of them have engine issues. I'm not saying a full synthetic is bad but I personally don't run it and don't have engine issues even after years of use.
No need for 40 weight oil in the Buck 3.8l. Every one I've seen had 50 or 60 plus pounds of oil pressure with 30 weight.
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I purchased my 1997 Harley new and used mineral oil the first few years but I thought it may benefit from trying then then new on the market Mobil 1 Synthetic V-Twin motorcycle oil. I changed it myself with new filter like I always did but Immediately I noticed at every stop a top end tic, tic, tic, I did 15-20 miles with the ticking then back home and dumped the Mobil 1 and refilled with mineral and now 27 years later, I still have the bike and has never again had a drop of synthetic and I have NEVER heard any ticking again.
Then around 2004 I purchased a one owner cream-puff Ford Crown Vic and did excessive early OCI using Mobil 1 Synthetic on my low mile per year car.
I sold the car before it hit 60K miles at at around 50K I had blue oil puff at startup ( assume valve seats ) I guess I can't blame it on the Mobil 1 oil but I stopped using Mobil at that point sold that new looking car and purchased many ( I think 6 or 7 ) retired Police Crown Vic some with high miles 140K+ I always used Motorcraft "Blend " oil in those Crown Vics and never ever seen a blue puff of smoke again...
I can't say anything is wrong with Mobil 1 as so many on this forum love it but I can say my old EVO Harley didn't like it and I had possible oil related issues when using Mobil 1 and with all the oil choices it was just easy to walk away from Mobil 1.
On my modern new 2023 Harley I did a early 100 mile break-in oil changed and filled with mineral Bel-Ray oil, then changed to Bel-Ray blend at 1K and still had a smooth top end. I do start to get valve train noise around 1,800 miles so I wonder IF Synthetic may get me more miles without oil shear. I may try a full synthetic to see, may not as I believe have a mineral or mineral blend offers less top end noise on a Harley. I do early OCI anyway so we see how I feel this summer. IF the oil don'y work I can alwasy dump it out and refill with what I know works.
I have read of others having more engine noise when using Mobil 1 so I know I was not the only one. I'm sure it's a better oil than it was in the late 90's but I still have no desire to use it again. I will say that I've seen plenty of pictures of the inside of engines that claim to only use Mobil 1 and they looked super clean so that is a plus.
I own a 2014 Honda Rancher ATV that I bought new. It came with the Honda GN4 conventional oil in it. At the first oil change I switched it to the Honda full synthetic ATV oil and while the ATV seemed to shift better, the engine was definitely noisier, and the engine had a tap in it. I even went as far as checking the valve clearance even though it wasn't time to do so to see if the tapping was caused by that, but it was still within spec. On the next oil change I went to a semi-synthetic ATV oil and that quieted the engine down some but it still wasn't as quiet as it was with the original oil. I eventually went back to the GN4 and is what I run in it now. While the tapping probably wasn't hurting anything, I didn't like the sound of it. I guess some engines just don't like a synthetic. Honda doesn't recommend anything but GN4 in this ATV so that might have been a clue.