Synthetic Blend Oil

Just did a search on Walmarts app for “10w-40” and the Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 is only $7 more per jug than the other name brand synth blends. $7 an OCI is the difference of an extra coffee over the course of an OCI. I’d just spring for the Mobil 1 High Mileage and call it a day if it were me.


Who am I kidding? If it really were me, this would be my choice. 😂

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Some of us still run conventional in old vehicles because we don't believe in tempting fate with the seals / esters if its not leaking is a grand idea. Its lasted this long without leaking, why tempt fate.
 
Any modern synthetic-blend oil would be more than sufficient for your vehicle if it otherwise meets spec. Heck, even brand new Mustang GT's with ~500hp come with synthetic blend from the factory. Respectfully, you may be overthinking this.
I always do ;)
 
Yes, but whenever someone around here gives the "it doesn't cost much" argument for shorter OCI they often get a blast from the boutique / long OCI guys there being wasteful?

As always "worth it" is in the eyes of the beholder. I have never suffered a oil related engine failure on Conventional / semi syn following manufacturers OCI suggestion. I am no chemist but with an engine design that doesn't have any shortcomings I wonder if a cheap synthetic is really any better than a conventional from someone like Chevron or Valvoline?

As always, YMMV and Caveat Emptor.
Our beloved '06 Acura TSX with the mighty K24 has 242K on the clock. It has been on a steady 4500 OCI diet of Mobil 1 5w30.
The internals are squeaky clean; I never check the level because there is no reason. I would drive it anywhere right now.

I've dealt with numerous K24 driven cars; many of us have. This one has to be one of the very best.

No failure is a great thing, but a long, high quality life is even better. And cheap insurance, IMO.
 
Although people in the US probably drive the most of all other drivers in the world, the motor oil here is the cheapest, even if it's a hydro crack.

However, Amsoil, HPL and other boutique oils are not that expensive either because in Europe people often pay (in their currency) that much for hydro crack oils.

So, in this case driving with conventional and synth. blend oils is cheap as people in 2nd and 3rd world countries always aim for full synthetic, even when an oil change cost them over 100 in their currency. And their salaries are at least 4-5 times smaller than here.
 
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The problem with synthetic blend is that it’s really not that much cheaper than a full synthetic. With rebates you can probably get full synthetic for less. And as much as I’m not a big fan of Kirkland/Supertech synthetic, they are cheaper than a blend, I’d run those over a blend anytime (with the exception of Amsoil’s blend)
Not sure if I completely agree with this part. I might run a blend from a major over a store brand full synthetic in certain situations. Like in the OP’s situation I’d lean more towards a blend from a major than Supertech full synthetic. Any difference in price or performance is likely negligible.
 
one point to consider in a oil like Supertech or Kirkland and other less popular oils , is the major brands are more likely to engine test in their own engines ,dyno etc & labs, as may not be the case with some other brands but rely more on the additive supplier & , base oil sources for a end result , to note also the majors have more financial resources for more different licenses and advanced approvals and testing of their products.
 
Curious on what people think about running syn-blend in an 02 lesabre. Looking to run it because I want a 10W-40 but its nearly non existent in full synthetic. If anyone has any thoughts or experiences with supertech or quaker state all-mileage, or valvoline maxlife synthetic blend please share. Or any used oil analysis to share. I want to know if it would shorten the life of my engine at all compared to a full syn doing 3k OCI.
Valvoline MaxLife.
 
one point to consider in a oil like Supertech or Kirkland and other less popular oils , is the major brands are more likely to engine test in their own engines ,dyno etc & labs, as may not be the case with some other brands but rely more on the additive supplier & , base oil sources for a end result , to note also the majors have more financial resources for more different licenses and advanced approvals and testing of their products.
Are you saying Warren doesn't test their brands?
 
Why not just run a euro 5W-40 like Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40? Very robust. Or even Mobil 1 0W-40 if you insist on a 40, super cheap. I’d probably just run Valvoline Restore and Protect in it actually.
 
My dad had one of these (1995 or 96 I think.) Used it as a beater car forever. He used Pennzoil or house brand oil. Nothing special. Probably conventional. No idea how many miles it had when he sold it, but probably a bunch. I'm not aware of the car ever giving him a problem. 3,000 mile oil change interval, like clockwork.
 
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