Switching over to HM Oil
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If anything, a bad seal or 'degrading' seal may respond poorly to a High Mileage oil at first but given time may have a longer lifespan than without the use of a high mileage oil.
It may be considered good preventative maintenance if the app is known to develop seal leaks, that is to say apps/engines of a certain vintage or gen, etc.
Lastly, I would only use a High Mileage oil in such apps as described above for about 1 years time or so(perhaps every 4th oil change for instance) if as preventative on apps with known issues, and the same goes if I'm giving a High Mileage oil a shot to help with a present leak. If nothing changes over time, change the seals. No need to use a High Mileage oil with 'fresh' or 'new' seals, but new seals in an old/acidic environment is different than a new engine that has yet to see the use.
The use of High Mileage oils in an engine with new seals is in a gray area to me.
It could depend on the quality of the replacement or any concern over developing a leak with remaining older seals. I would probably avoid High Mileage oils after a rear-main seal replacement, though, specifically. Give it at least a year to settle into the old engine's environment. It will respond to that first and adjust, then using High Mileage oils after the time-period it takes for the seals to react/do what they are going to do, proceed as planned.
It may be considered good preventative maintenance if the app is known to develop seal leaks, that is to say apps/engines of a certain vintage or gen, etc.
Lastly, I would only use a High Mileage oil in such apps as described above for about 1 years time or so(perhaps every 4th oil change for instance) if as preventative on apps with known issues, and the same goes if I'm giving a High Mileage oil a shot to help with a present leak. If nothing changes over time, change the seals. No need to use a High Mileage oil with 'fresh' or 'new' seals, but new seals in an old/acidic environment is different than a new engine that has yet to see the use.
The use of High Mileage oils in an engine with new seals is in a gray area to me.
It could depend on the quality of the replacement or any concern over developing a leak with remaining older seals. I would probably avoid High Mileage oils after a rear-main seal replacement, though, specifically. Give it at least a year to settle into the old engine's environment. It will respond to that first and adjust, then using High Mileage oils after the time-period it takes for the seals to react/do what they are going to do, proceed as planned.
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Who knows?
When you get into the murky realm of non-metallic additives, you have no real clue.
You can't see these additives in VOA/used oil analysis.
All oils contain seal conditioners.
Do High Mileage oils have more or a different type?
Your guess is as good as mine.
Many members have reported good results with Maxlife SB, but I haven't seen any with my BMW.
I doubt that High Mileage oils do any harm, but I wonder whether they do much good.
Good questions. I have no idea. I'd like to know.
Who knows?
When you get into the murky realm of non-metallic additives, you have no real clue.
You can't see these additives in VOA/used oil analysis.
All oils contain seal conditioners.
Do High Mileage oils have more or a different type?
Your guess is as good as mine.
Many members have reported good results with Maxlife SB, but I haven't seen any with my BMW.
I doubt that High Mileage oils do any harm, but I wonder whether they do much good.
Good questions. I have no idea. I'd like to know.
correct and if you watch for sales its a mute point regarding costs. I did the sale thing on some nextgen maxlife, I have 25 qts for my Subaru, that should give her a few oil changes
Originally Posted By: buster
Valvoline says you can use a High Mileage oil in a new engine. Fwiw.
Of course you can!If you can switch between a High Mileage oil and regular oil,with no issues,what harm do you think you would cause running a High Mileage oil in a brand new motor with new seals,gaskets,etc. NONE!
Bad seals,worn out gaskets,over torqueing gaskets cause oil leaks -period.
Valvoline says you can use a High Mileage oil in a new engine. Fwiw.
Of course you can!If you can switch between a High Mileage oil and regular oil,with no issues,what harm do you think you would cause running a High Mileage oil in a brand new motor with new seals,gaskets,etc. NONE!
Bad seals,worn out gaskets,over torqueing gaskets cause oil leaks -period.
Gotta love the Mobil 1 website.
Quote:
Answer:
Mobil 1 High Mileage oils can be used in both newer and older vehicles. In newer vehicles, some of the performance additives included for older vehicles will not be needed but they will not cause any problem in newer vehicles.
The Mazda is getting a High Mileage oil next. I'm just not sure which one. Either a blend of Mobil 1 High Mileage or maybe QS Defy or Maxlife. Valvoline came up with the idea, and seems to make the best High Mileage oil on the market.
I'm on a High Mileage kick.
Quote:
Answer:
Mobil 1 High Mileage oils can be used in both newer and older vehicles. In newer vehicles, some of the performance additives included for older vehicles will not be needed but they will not cause any problem in newer vehicles.
The Mazda is getting a High Mileage oil next. I'm just not sure which one. Either a blend of Mobil 1 High Mileage or maybe QS Defy or Maxlife. Valvoline came up with the idea, and seems to make the best High Mileage oil on the market.
I'm on a High Mileage kick.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: RedCorvette
The reasoning for using High Mileage oil that makes sense is that the old seals wore out quite quickly.
Perhaps his rubber needs more lubricating
IME Honda rubber parts are of poor quality. He did the right thing, most wouldn't. If other seals need conditioning due to not being replaced, then so be it...
But many other Hondas have more miles, time or the same year with NO problems so how can it be a Honda has bad parts (or poor ones) if the problem is NOT in EVERY Honda?
Not a Honda system wide problem IMO. It IS something that either the batch of parts that Buster's engine was built in (which I sorta doubt since they build a TON of Honda's) or something to how Buster's use, climate, oils or such have after only 7 years and 154k miles caused the seals to fail.
If 7 year old Honda engines were requiring $1,000+ in seals we would have heard about it loud and clear.
Take care, Bill
Note in my first post that our integra did not use or drop any oil even when we got rid of it at 190k.
The engine was a champ.
But rubber parts under, on and in the car didnt age well. Things like OE CV boots, rubber weather seals, etc did not age the way that out identical age Toyota, subject to the same conditions, did...
Not to mention that I have somewhat of a bias given that I daily drive 20 and 30 year old euro vehicles that do not leak. These are original vehicles that I own all the records on.
Maybe buster is unlucky and I am overly lucky. All I'm saying is that I would not be happy or expect $1k worth of leaking seals at 5 years old and 154k. Why? Because we just don't have them in our aged fleet which consists of cars from 81-94 at mileage a up to 240k. Luck? Perhaps.
Wrt the integra, the engine was tight but other rubber parts may foreshadow materials issues, like buster is having...
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: RedCorvette
The reasoning for using High Mileage oil that makes sense is that the old seals wore out quite quickly.
Perhaps his rubber needs more lubricating
IME Honda rubber parts are of poor quality. He did the right thing, most wouldn't. If other seals need conditioning due to not being replaced, then so be it...
But many other Hondas have more miles, time or the same year with NO problems so how can it be a Honda has bad parts (or poor ones) if the problem is NOT in EVERY Honda?
Not a Honda system wide problem IMO. It IS something that either the batch of parts that Buster's engine was built in (which I sorta doubt since they build a TON of Honda's) or something to how Buster's use, climate, oils or such have after only 7 years and 154k miles caused the seals to fail.
If 7 year old Honda engines were requiring $1,000+ in seals we would have heard about it loud and clear.
Take care, Bill
Note in my first post that our integra did not use or drop any oil even when we got rid of it at 190k.
The engine was a champ.
But rubber parts under, on and in the car didnt age well. Things like OE CV boots, rubber weather seals, etc did not age the way that out identical age Toyota, subject to the same conditions, did...
Not to mention that I have somewhat of a bias given that I daily drive 20 and 30 year old euro vehicles that do not leak. These are original vehicles that I own all the records on.
Maybe buster is unlucky and I am overly lucky. All I'm saying is that I would not be happy or expect $1k worth of leaking seals at 5 years old and 154k. Why? Because we just don't have them in our aged fleet which consists of cars from 81-94 at mileage a up to 240k. Luck? Perhaps.
Wrt the integra, the engine was tight but other rubber parts may foreshadow materials issues, like buster is having...
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Note in my first post that our integra did not use or drop any oil even when we got rid of it at 190k.
The engine was a champ.
But rubber parts under, on and in the car didnt age well. Things like OE CV boots, rubber weather seals, etc did not age the way that out identical age Toyota, subject to the same conditions, did...
Not to mention that I have somewhat of a bias given that I daily drive 20 and 30 year old euro vehicles that do not leak. These are original vehicles that I own all the records on.
Maybe buster is unlucky and I am overly lucky. All I'm saying is that I would not be happy or expect $1k worth of leaking seals at 5 years old and 154k. Why? Because we just don't have them in our aged fleet which consists of cars from 81-94 at mileage a up to 240k. Luck? Perhaps.
Wrt the integra, the engine was tight but other rubber parts may foreshadow materials issues, like buster is having...
Since Buster and I bought our current vehicles the same time 7 year ago you'd bet I'd be TICKED beyond if I had to spend a grand on it (and I've got 235k on mine) so I feel for the guy.
But my Honda experience is our 1998 Honda Accord bought new and sold to my friend who still has it with well over 200k and nothing gone wrong with it (I think he has replaced the AC condenser due to a raccoon hit), My Dad's 2001 Civic that "only" needed a long block @ 14k and then its been great. His 2005 Honda powered Vue was great till it got totaled.
I don't think Honda's are that bad when compared to other vehicles that I've known. Every brand has some lemons but overall I do think some brands have more than others.
But agree with you that the type of vehicles that you are operating are built like bricks. Personally I think the MB/BMW built in the late 80w/90s are better built then today's.
I'd just love to know what/why/how Buster's needed the repairs when most of them just go and go. My old 1998 I've seen in the last year from the bottom (and top) and its leak free. That vehicle has the same engine (I think) as his in the same frame. A lot more miles and years..
I doubt the flush could have hurt it. I would not have run it myself (I though running syn prevents the need for anything and prevents problems)
Buster did they (the repair folks) have any comments or insight on the issue?
Take care, Bill
PS: Maybe back there the environment is not good to rubber parts? I have a Brother in Law who lives in Philly but he or his wife trade off cars every 4-5 years so I don't know how their vehicles last.
Note in my first post that our integra did not use or drop any oil even when we got rid of it at 190k.
The engine was a champ.
But rubber parts under, on and in the car didnt age well. Things like OE CV boots, rubber weather seals, etc did not age the way that out identical age Toyota, subject to the same conditions, did...
Not to mention that I have somewhat of a bias given that I daily drive 20 and 30 year old euro vehicles that do not leak. These are original vehicles that I own all the records on.
Maybe buster is unlucky and I am overly lucky. All I'm saying is that I would not be happy or expect $1k worth of leaking seals at 5 years old and 154k. Why? Because we just don't have them in our aged fleet which consists of cars from 81-94 at mileage a up to 240k. Luck? Perhaps.
Wrt the integra, the engine was tight but other rubber parts may foreshadow materials issues, like buster is having...
Since Buster and I bought our current vehicles the same time 7 year ago you'd bet I'd be TICKED beyond if I had to spend a grand on it (and I've got 235k on mine) so I feel for the guy.
But my Honda experience is our 1998 Honda Accord bought new and sold to my friend who still has it with well over 200k and nothing gone wrong with it (I think he has replaced the AC condenser due to a raccoon hit), My Dad's 2001 Civic that "only" needed a long block @ 14k and then its been great. His 2005 Honda powered Vue was great till it got totaled.
I don't think Honda's are that bad when compared to other vehicles that I've known. Every brand has some lemons but overall I do think some brands have more than others.
But agree with you that the type of vehicles that you are operating are built like bricks. Personally I think the MB/BMW built in the late 80w/90s are better built then today's.
I'd just love to know what/why/how Buster's needed the repairs when most of them just go and go. My old 1998 I've seen in the last year from the bottom (and top) and its leak free. That vehicle has the same engine (I think) as his in the same frame. A lot more miles and years..
I doubt the flush could have hurt it. I would not have run it myself (I though running syn prevents the need for anything and prevents problems)
Buster did they (the repair folks) have any comments or insight on the issue?
Take care, Bill
PS: Maybe back there the environment is not good to rubber parts? I have a Brother in Law who lives in Philly but he or his wife trade off cars every 4-5 years so I don't know how their vehicles last.
Quote:
I'd just love to know what/why/how Buster's needed the repairs when most of them just go and go
I would too. The more I think about it, the Amsoil engine flush could have been a bit harsh on the seals. I used the older formulation and after I used it, I was getting a bit of very light smoke on start up for awhile. I regret using it, and I should know that a Honda does not need any engine flushes.
I don't think it has anything to do with the oils I've used because thousands of other Honda owners use the same oils with no problems. I have tried many brands but I doubt that matters. Of course some think staying with conventional oil is best in Honda engines. I don't buy it. All of the oils I've used were licensed, so seal compatibility was not an issue.
It could also just be the way this particular engine was made.
Oil leaks are tricky to spot and I'm kind of annoyed how long it took to really fix the problem. After 7 years, 155k miles with no repairs, I can't complain though.
Oh and I do plan on running this car for another 100k or more. It runs great.
I'd just love to know what/why/how Buster's needed the repairs when most of them just go and go
I would too. The more I think about it, the Amsoil engine flush could have been a bit harsh on the seals. I used the older formulation and after I used it, I was getting a bit of very light smoke on start up for awhile. I regret using it, and I should know that a Honda does not need any engine flushes.
I don't think it has anything to do with the oils I've used because thousands of other Honda owners use the same oils with no problems. I have tried many brands but I doubt that matters. Of course some think staying with conventional oil is best in Honda engines. I don't buy it. All of the oils I've used were licensed, so seal compatibility was not an issue.
It could also just be the way this particular engine was made.
Oil leaks are tricky to spot and I'm kind of annoyed how long it took to really fix the problem. After 7 years, 155k miles with no repairs, I can't complain though.
Oh and I do plan on running this car for another 100k or more. It runs great.
I know switching brands had NOTHING to do with this. (millions do the same and if it was a issue we would know)
I don't know about the flush. Is it a put it in and run for a x amount of time and drain or an additive you put in just before the OCI?
Do remember that thread with the "puff" of smoke after the flush...
Glad to hear that its fixed. I doubt you would have any more issues with it!
Take care, Bill
I don't know about the flush. Is it a put it in and run for a x amount of time and drain or an additive you put in just before the OCI?
Do remember that thread with the "puff" of smoke after the flush...
Glad to hear that its fixed. I doubt you would have any more issues with it!
Take care, Bill
Yeah I agree Bill. It was the flush you add and drain after 10 minutes. I'm not going to blame the flush, because I really don't know. I do regret using it and really just tried it to "try it". Probably not the best thing to do. Honda engines will run forever using conventional oil with no flushes. Amsoil did end up reformulating that flush. Who knows...
Hopefully the Mobil 1 High Mileage will not cause any problems and only help if needed. Only two other seals as mentioned by The Critic are left that haven't been replaced. Knowing it's not bad for new engines and you can switch back, I'm not concerned at all. I will never use an engine flush though again.
Hopefully the Mobil 1 High Mileage will not cause any problems and only help if needed. Only two other seals as mentioned by The Critic are left that haven't been replaced. Knowing it's not bad for new engines and you can switch back, I'm not concerned at all. I will never use an engine flush though again.
All I can say is I was using Maxlife for a LONG time, several years, but not because of any issues....simply because I liked the oil.
However, I recently switched to Quaker State High Mileage, I like it a LOT better. Engine is smoother, quieter
However, I recently switched to Quaker State High Mileage, I like it a LOT better. Engine is smoother, quieter
Funny how this thread comes up, as my wife's car is quite close to the high milage time (aka 75k), and was thinking the same thing. Her car does not go through any oil on a OCI, but I think a little is burning off the top. (could be time for a new gasket there) Other than that the car is doing fine.
I was considering maxlife as well, but even though the car has run syn nearly it's entire life (from 8k on), I just don't think it needs a HM syn...
I was considering maxlife as well, but even though the car has run syn nearly it's entire life (from 8k on), I just don't think it needs a HM syn...
Originally Posted By: Ramblin Fever
All I can say is I was using Maxlife for a LONG time, several years, but not because of any issues....simply because I liked the oil.
However, I recently switched to Quaker State High Mileage, I like it a LOT better. Engine is smoother, quieter
The Defy version?
All I can say is I was using Maxlife for a LONG time, several years, but not because of any issues....simply because I liked the oil.
However, I recently switched to Quaker State High Mileage, I like it a LOT better. Engine is smoother, quieter
The Defy version?
Originally Posted By: buster
Yeah I agree Bill. It was the flush you add and drain after 10 minutes. I'm not going to blame the flush, because I really don't know. I do regret using it and really just tried it to "try it". Probably not the best thing to do. Honda engines will run forever using conventional oil with no flushes. Amsoil did end up reformulating that flush. Who knows...
Hopefully the M1 High Mileage will not cause any problems and only help if needed. Only two other seals as mentioned by The Critic are left that haven't been replaced. Knowing it's not bad for new engines and you can switch back, I'm not concerned at all. I will never use an engine flush though again.
I really doubt the flush had anything in the mix. If it was in for 10 minutes and "could" attack anything seal/gasket it would have done damage to many more things right away. (I think/hope
)
Agree that I'd still pass on it unless I "needed" it. Also I doubt the High Mileage will do any damage but I'm sorta a stay what with works and most High Mileage oils are a marketing departments dream. (just me I know but I HATE the 75001 mile garbage
for one )
Take care, bill
Yeah I agree Bill. It was the flush you add and drain after 10 minutes. I'm not going to blame the flush, because I really don't know. I do regret using it and really just tried it to "try it". Probably not the best thing to do. Honda engines will run forever using conventional oil with no flushes. Amsoil did end up reformulating that flush. Who knows...
Hopefully the M1 High Mileage will not cause any problems and only help if needed. Only two other seals as mentioned by The Critic are left that haven't been replaced. Knowing it's not bad for new engines and you can switch back, I'm not concerned at all. I will never use an engine flush though again.
I really doubt the flush had anything in the mix. If it was in for 10 minutes and "could" attack anything seal/gasket it would have done damage to many more things right away. (I think/hope
Agree that I'd still pass on it unless I "needed" it. Also I doubt the High Mileage will do any damage but I'm sorta a stay what with works and most High Mileage oils are a marketing departments dream. (just me I know but I HATE the 75001 mile garbage
Take care, bill
Also..forgot to add, fwiw, I simply started using High Mileage oil because that was the only oil my sister had on hand at the time, I was changing her oil and I happen to do mine at the same time.
I had been using Rotella 5w-40 prior to the maxlife, but found the maxlife easier to find and in 5qt containers.
I currently have 15yrs and 203k miles on the truck in question; zero leaks and zero consumption....have yet to see a difference from running regular oil versus High Mileage oil.
As far as I can tell, there is no harm in running High Mileage oil in an engine irregardless of age, miles, etc. so if the OP wants to run High Mileage, then so be it...it's not anymore or less expensive, not here anyways.
I had been using Rotella 5w-40 prior to the maxlife, but found the maxlife easier to find and in 5qt containers.
I currently have 15yrs and 203k miles on the truck in question; zero leaks and zero consumption....have yet to see a difference from running regular oil versus High Mileage oil.
As far as I can tell, there is no harm in running High Mileage oil in an engine irregardless of age, miles, etc. so if the OP wants to run High Mileage, then so be it...it's not anymore or less expensive, not here anyways.
JHZR2
Staff member
They could have been swelled differently due to the solvent, but I can't see how it was done in 10 min. Was the engine ever run warm? I wonder if there was some warpage that couldn't be overcome with the gasket.
I can't imagine the engine was sludged or seals busted due to sludge.
I can't imagine the engine was sludged or seals busted due to sludge.
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