Switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil?

wag123 said:
I reiterate, I would not run a boutique motor oil in any vehicle that is only driven 1k miles per year and changed once a year, you get no benefit whatsoever from using it. IMO stretching the change interval to two years is not the answer either, you would be better-off using M1 and changing it every year.
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I disagree. There are some vehicles - classics, maybe they need an oil engineered for classic cars, for example. Contain high levels of ZDDP, top-tier additives and rust inhibitors to protect the engine in storage in very sporadic use.
 
Pablo said:
I disagree. There are some vehicles - classics, maybe they need an oil engineered for classic cars, for example. Contain high levels of ZDDP, top-tier additives and rust inhibitors to protect the engine in storage in very sporadic use.
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Exactly Pablo... Great call.
That's when I reach for HPL I mean Amsoil. Yes I am going away now...sorry.. 😂😂
 
Pablo said:
I disagree. There are some vehicles - classics, maybe they need an oil engineered for classic cars, for example. Contain high levels of ZDDP, top-tier additives and rust inhibitors to protect the engine in storage in very sporadic use.
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I agree that using something like Z-ROD in a 1967 Camaro would be the preferred way to go, but the OP has a 1996 Camaro and was not talking about using Z-ROD. Furthermore, using a motor oil that has a lot of ZDDP in it is not only unnecessary in a car like the OP has, but would ultimately be detrimental to catalytic converter life.
 
Pablo said:
I disagree. There are some vehicles - classics, maybe they need an oil engineered for classic cars, for example. Contain high levels of ZDDP, top-tier additives and rust inhibitors to protect the engine in storage in very sporadic use.
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Haven't we see proof that regular modern API current synthetics protect classics totally fine? Regarding flat tappets for example
 
DGXR said:
No reason to stick with Mobil 1 or any particular brand at all. If cost is no concern, then sure, run the Amsoil. You know Amsoil is overkill for a 1996 Chevy but it won't hurt anything. Whatever makes you happy. Enjoy the classic Camaro.
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How is Amsoil "overkill"?
If anything M-1 API SP or any CK-4/SN is overkill, or beyond what is necessary.
 
buster said:
Age old debate. I'm usually more of a purest as I don't like to mix oils, nor do I like to constantly switch back and forth. Does it matter? Meh probably not much. But each time you introduce a new chemistry into the engine, it has to lay down it's qualities and establish new tribofilms on the metal surfaces with it's own unique chemistry. Being most oils are compatible, it's not really an issue. I prefer to try and stay with one brand. I know we all get the urge to try new oils now and then and that is perfectly fine.
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This. I try to avoid changing chemistries as much as possible. Oils are designed to be miscible, which, as @Shannow has aptly described, means they aren't going to split like mayonnaise when mixed. It does not mean they will maintain their performance characteristics or certifications/approvals or even their (Winter) grade.

Different chemistries are synergistic while others can clash, resulting in reduced performance. Oils are carefully blended (and tested) products to ensure optimal performance based on the chosen ingredients, dumping in a whole host of different additives at different concentrations can negatively impact that balance and reduce the performance.

All that said, Jane or Joe Average isn't going to be able to discern if this is happening and any impact will be so low that without controlled testing, one wouldn't be able to put their finger on it. Like with using superior filtration, engines will go hundreds of thousands of miles with "not as good" products.
 
wag123 said:
I agree that using something like Z-ROD in a 1967 Camaro would be the preferred way to go, but the OP has a 1996 Camaro and was not talking about using Z-ROD. Furthermore, using a motor oil that has a lot of ZDDP in it is not only unnecessary in a car like the OP has, but would ultimately be detrimental to catalytic converter life.
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I was just disagreeing with the word ANY. (in bold) I was NOT making a recommendation.
 
doublebase said:
I see a lot of folks sticking with one brand, and saying it’s best to do so, the question I’d have is...what’s wrong with switching every oil change? In the last 70,000 miles on my current vehicle I’ve used Mobil1 EP (3 times), Pennzoil Platinum a couple times, Valvoline Modern Engine a couple times, Shell RGT, Super Tech, Amalie Synthetic, and I used a frankenbrew of Pennzoil/Quaker State/Shell RGT. Intervals ranging from 5,000-10,000 (when using the Mobil1 EP).

If there is ANY advantage to sticking with just one brand, I might actually do it. And it’d probably be Mobil1 I guess. And probably Mobil1 EP (I suppose). It’s easy for me to get, they run their rebates once a year or so, seems to be “good” oil.
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There really is nothing wrong with it, just different additive packs and I have seen when people switched oils on UOA's their wear metals increase a little bit temporarily.

It's not going to magically blow your engine or magically turn to sludge mania, some people have different experiences with different oils on their engines from being louder or quieter and if one is working great for you why switch?.
 
ARCOgraphite said:
They are extremely high detergent long drain oils. You could most like run them for three years without changing.
The oil isn't likely entering its "sweet spot" until you get 3K mile into it. There is hidden chemistry at work here.

Then when starting an engine after an oil change you are "dry starting" the machine with a chance for accelerated wear.
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So we can see the corner Honda has painted some of us into with their little sewing machine sized diluter / turbo GDI engines. We try to do something to protect them by going with a good oil and short oci and we miss out on a lot of the benefits due to not only gas in our oil but then also missing out a lot of the "best of materials" , the "sweet spot" as you say by not using the oils long enough. The old Catch 22 for some with certain engines. While I been kicking and bashing on that Honda engine since we got it, (oil/fuel dilution) I must be totally honest. It happens to be our favorite of all the Hondas since 1997. Tiny engine sure has all the power we need from it. Plus quality of interior, design , super quiet ( you can not tell engine is running) at times from inside and even standing next to it.
Glad I was watching wife pull out of garage about an hour ago. She had more in her head about where she was going than what she was doing and came inches from either pulling the passenger side mirror off the car or tearing up part of the car door & garage door frame etc... I just happened to catch her attention to make her stop in time! Whew. That would have been fun fixing and paying for! I'm responsible for a ding on the opposite door frame I backed the Chevelle bumper into it one day so I had to keep my cool today!!! :rolleyes:
 
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