switching from 5W30 to 5W20

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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: odie
I'm thinking the same for our '08 Yaris sedan for use during the colder days / nights of late fall , winter , and early spring . Temps drop into the single digits . Picked up some SHELL synthetic 5w-20 ( SN/GF-5 ) for $4 a quart . The current fill is SHELL synthetic 5w30 ( SN/GF-5 )for the heat of late spring , summer , and fall .



The thing is,and mentioned on here before by me and other`s. Is most 5W30`s shear to a 5W20 anyway. So theoretically it should be fine?


It completely depends on the application. My 5.4L doesn't shear oil at all.
 
Yeah,look at enough 5W30 used oil analysis and you'll see most of them shear and spend at least a third of their life running in 20 grade anyway. If this Lexus not driven like a road racer, or is a model known for particularly high oil temps, I doubt the you'll be able to tell much one way other another. On the other hand, I see no significant advantage to a switch like this unless the car is short hopped a lot. Better flow in that situation may avert some startup wear. Overall, I'd predict not much change anywhere... MPG, UOA (wear) or seat-o-the-pants. IMO, viscosity choices are one place where the OE pretty much gets it right. If this engine, or a later variation, are spec'ed for 5W20... that would add a lot of cred to the idea.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Yeah,look at enough 5W30 used oil analysis and you'll see most of them shear and spend at least a third of their life running in 20 grade anyway. If this Lexus not driven like a road racer, or is a model known for particularly high oil temps, I doubt the you'll be able to tell much one way other another. On the other hand, I see no significant advantage to a switch like this unless the car is short hopped a lot. Better flow in that situation may avert some startup wear. Overall, I'd predict not much change anywhere... MPG, UOA (wear) or seat-o-the-pants. IMO, viscosity choices are one place where the OE pretty much gets it right. If this engine, or a later variation, are spec'ed for 5W20... that would add a lot of cred to the idea.


Well, it is known for higher oil temps,and being rather hard on oil. Toyota claims it could smoke at the tail pipe,louder valve train noise,and oil consumption. Uh..maybe I`ll pass.
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How many votes do I get for being a Guinea Pig?
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Try it you might like it. I switched my Aerostar with a heck of a lot more miles than that and was pleased. Now that my oil pan is leaking I've been using whatever I have on hand that was cheap, including mixing and matching different brands and grades.


Don't do it, it made Frank's oil pan start leaking!!
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Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Try it you might like it. I switched my Aerostar with a heck of a lot more miles than that and was pleased. Now that my oil pan is leaking I've been using whatever I have on hand that was cheap, including mixing and matching different brands and grades.


Don't do it, it made Frank's oil pan start leaking!!
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Yeah I know, I picked up on that too.
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Maybe try the well tested and well received Motorcraft 5w-20? Its designed with OHC chain engines and and shim under bucket 2.3L/2.5L Mazda Ford OHC 4 cyl. Its also so close to a thin 30 grade (ala SM Havoline DS) you may not notice you changed a grade except for easier running during warmup. I also liked the way the IDEMITSU 0W20 Subaru oil ran in the new '11 Forester, but I fear the OTC oil from subaru parts does not have extra goodies in it like the FF (this has been confirmed thru Idemitsu). May still be a good oil though!
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
What will a 5w-20 do better than a 5w30?



Well, I dont know until I try it.
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Probably nothing.
 
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
What will a 5w-20 do better than a 5w30?


Slightly lower oil temps. Quiter valve train. More shear stable. When was the last time anyone saw 0 or 5-20 shear down? I'm not saying it can't happen,but.... On this site FISSKIER started using Mobil 1 0w20 in engines spec'd for 5-30 and put 300K+ on mid 90s engines with no problems at all. He even plans to do that in his late model Toyota van which calls for a 30wt oils soon as it goes out of warranty. And yes I used Mobil 1 5w20 in the 70s in engines calling for 30 & 40 wt oils.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Steve S
What will a 5w-20 do better than a 5w30?


Slightly lower oil temps. Quiter valve train. More shear stable. When was the last time anyone saw 0 or 5-20 shear down? I'm not saying it can't happen,but.... On this site FISSKIER started using Mobil 1 0w20 in engines spec'd for 5-30 and put 300K+ on mid 90s engines with no problems at all. He even plans to do that in his late model Toyota van which calls for a 30wt oils soon as it goes out of warranty. And yes I used Mobil 1 5w20 in the 70s in engines calling for 30 & 40 wt oils.



It`s about time tig, what took ya so long?
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I asked this same question on another forum and the answer was "Don't do it" unless I want to risk engine bearing damage. They said my truck is specific to using only 5w30 oil only so in order to save a little on gas/economy I had to resort to trying other things. I have a 01' Dodge Durango, 4.7 liter engine.

What do you experts say????? Since then I've just stayed with Mobil 1 5w30 most of the time. My last OCI I trying Kendall "synthetic" in the 5w30 mode.

Durango
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Steve S
What will a 5w-20 do better than a 5w30?


Slightly lower oil temps. Quiter valve train. More shear stable. When was the last time anyone saw 0 or 5-20 shear down? I'm not saying it can't happen,but.... On this site FISSKIER started using Mobil 1 0w20 in engines spec'd for 5-30 and put 300K+ on mid 90s engines with no problems at all. He even plans to do that in his late model Toyota van which calls for a 30wt oils soon as it goes out of warranty. And yes I used Mobil 1 5w20 in the 70s in engines calling for 30 & 40 wt oils.



It`s about time tig, what took ya so long?
grin.gif



Had to work this morning till noon and just ordered a cartridge oil wrench for the Fusion from O'Reilly's. Will report on that tomorrow after picking it up.
 
Originally Posted By: Durango
I asked this same question on another forum and the answer was "Don't do it" unless I want to risk engine bearing damage. They said my truck is specific to using only 5w30 oil only so in order to save a little on gas/economy I had to resort to trying other things. I have a 01' Dodge Durango, 4.7 liter engine.

What do you experts say????? Since then I've just stayed with Mobil 1 5w30 most of the time. My last OCI I trying Kendall "synthetic" in the 5w30 mode.

Durango



Well,which one of us is going to go first Durango??
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Steve S
What will a 5w-20 do better than a 5w30?


Slightly lower oil temps. Quiter valve train. More shear stable. When was the last time anyone saw 0 or 5-20 shear down? I'm not saying it can't happen,but.... On this site FISSKIER started using Mobil 1 0w20 in engines spec'd for 5-30 and put 300K+ on mid 90s engines with no problems at all. He even plans to do that in his late model Toyota van which calls for a 30wt oils soon as it goes out of warranty. And yes I used Mobil 1 5w20 in the 70s in engines calling for 30 & 40 wt oils.
I used Mobil 1 5w20 when it first came out as well with out any problems . But then I have never had oil related problems . Slightly lower oil temps? so!! There isn't a big difference between the oils that will make a difference.
 
But, the Lexus is safe to run 5w-20, but I just wouldn't recommended it right now (heat wave). Switch to 5w-20 before winter starts.
 
Originally Posted By: hypervish
But, the Lexus is safe to run 5w-20, but I just wouldn't recommended it right now (heat wave). Switch to 5w-20 before winter starts.


I`ll let you know how it works out. Now I just have to figure out which one? Motorcraft, MB-1 EP,or Ultra. I`m leaning towards the MB-1.
 
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