Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

First step would be a complete disassembly to diagnose the loss of compression. I wish we could see the inside of that engine!!

Back when I worked for the railroad we had some 4runners used by ECI foreman. Those had 400k+ miles of hard use on them.

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Perfectly good bumper mauled for the sake of the railroad lol. is that a spare tire or were steel wheels put up front purposeful?
 
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I see it a little differently. BITOG is the most technical automotive site on the internet IMO. The mods keep everything as technical as possible. I’m also a member on several other automotive forums and they’re a circus of internet and YouTube clickbait myths. So 90% of the issues I see here are members that argue these myths and legends and get upset when called out. The more tenured members get upset with the never ending cycle of educating. I wish everyone would read a Tribology 101 book and take advantage of the BITOG resources.
Yes and seems like it is bothersome when someone has a mountain of lab data to prove themselves why and how a 20 wt destroys engines and is strictly for CAFE yet there's real life use where people have racked up 300K. Just an example here. You know Bose's philosophy was purposeful to not list product wattages on their powered systems and frequency response of their speakers because they knew the majority of speaker buyers were spec sheet jockeys. There's good stuff to be learned on here for sure but no one should be discredited because something they're doing has been working for them or others.
 
Many pound sand with a religious belief that a 20-grade is somehow superior to a 30-grade. It is, but only for fuel consumption. Not for any other reason. So if that is your one and only criteria then your post makes some sense.

And it's not about flow.
But, but, but … “It flows faster” - hopefully not too fast 😵‍💫
 
Yes and seems like it is bothersome when someone has a mountain of lab data to prove themselves why and how a 20 wt destroys engines and is strictly for CAFE yet there's real life use where people have racked up 300K. Just an example here. You know Bose's philosophy was purposeful to not list product wattages on their powered systems and frequency response of their speakers because they knew the majority of speaker buyers were spec sheet jockeys. There's good stuff to be learned on here for sure but no one should be discredited because something they're doing has been working for them or others.
Who here claims 20 grade destroys engines?

CAFE is the reason we no longer see a range of recommended viscosities in the owners manual. Rules are in place for reported mpg and what is published for viscosity.

It’s well documented a 20 grade can provide acceptable wear when not sheared or diluted. A 30/40 grade can provide headroom and normally doesn’t shear or dilute below an acceptable 20 grade. Pretty solid advice to me. As with anything it’s vehicle/conditions dependent. Then we have GF7B oils where engines have to be mechanically designed to accept an ultra low viscosity. A higher grade can also be run in these but you would not want to run a GF7B oil in an engine not designed for it.
 
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Yes and seems like it is bothersome when someone has a mountain of lab data to prove themselves why and how a 20 wt destroys engines and is strictly for CAFE yet there's real life use where people have racked up 300K. Just an example here. You know Bose's philosophy was purposeful to not list product wattages on their powered systems and frequency response of their speakers because they knew the majority of speaker buyers were spec sheet jockeys. There's good stuff to be learned on here for sure but no one should be discredited because something they're doing has been working for them or others.
After a while the machinations required get a bit silly.
 
Who here claims 20 grade destroys engines?

CAFE is the reason we no longer see a range of recommended viscosities in the owners manual. Rules are in place for reported mpg and what is published for viscosity.

It’s well documented a 20 grade can provide acceptable wear when not sheared or diluted. A 30/40 grade can provide headroom and normally doesn’t shear or dilute below an acceptable 20 grade. Pretty solid advice to me. As with anything it’s vehicle/conditions dependent. Then we have GF7B oils where engines have to be mechanically designed to accept an ultra low viscosity. A higher grade can also be run in these but you would not want to run a GF7B oil in an engine not designed for it.
It’s called not really understanding the issue and making obtuse arguments as a result.
 
Yes and seems like it is bothersome when someone has a mountain of lab data to prove themselves why and how a 20 wt destroys engines and is strictly for CAFE yet there's real life use where people have racked up 300K. Just an example here.
But that's not an example, it's hyperbole, presented to attempt to shutdown debate on something that is technical and nuanced, which I already addressed in my previous reply to you.
 
I came across this video a couple of days ago. Apparently, he is using 0W-20 from the dealership, at 10K mi OCIs. Obviously severe duty operations with offroading and long idling, which even the manual advises going up in viscosity and cutting down the OCI. Yet, it lasted 250k miles. Maybe someone could shed a light about if the failure was potentially caused by not changing from the "normal" OCI/grade. Details about the issue at around the 22:20 mark.



Self admitted user neglect.
 
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